My introduction to spaghetti alla carbonara was nothing less than ignoble. In the early ’90s, I encountered the recipe in a low-fat, low-cholesterol cookbook I had borrowed from my friend Diane, a stick-thin Stairmaster mistress. Diane, who has an impeccable palate, nonetheless wanted slim-down versions of her favorite dishes during the week so that she could splurge on the real thing during weekends. The recipe—which in its unadulterated form is rich with eggs, pancetta, grated cheese, and plenty of freshly ground pepper—was an anemic version of itself. The final dish was a concoction of egg substitute, artificial bacon bits and low-fat grated cheese. After a few bites, I decided to steer clear of the dish—and the book.
Five years later, on a trip to Italy, several friends and I were dining at Vecchia Roma, on the Piazza Campitelli in Rome, and there on the menu was spaghetti alla carbonara. I was resolute in my aversion, and instead ordered risotto with shrimp and whitefish—utterly delicious, but like an ABBA song, I couldn’t get carbonara out of my head.
A week later in Bellagio in the Lake Como region, it appeared again on the menu of a small lakeside restaurant whose name I can’t remember, thanks to a bottle of Franciacorta spumante. I was going to pass it up until I read its description.”Alla carbonara,” the menu said, means “in the manner of the coal miners.” (Carbonara and carbone, the Italian word for coal, both derive from the Latin word carbo.) According to this legend, the dish was popular with miners because the few ingredients could easily be carried or, in the case of eggs, pocketed from henhouses on the way to work. When appetites knocked, a simple campfire in the woods was all that was needed to make an elegant meal. The liberal use of pepper is considered a modern-day metaphor for the specks of coal that would inevitably drop from the miners’ clothing onto the plates of pasta. Others say the name comes from the carbon that rose from cooking the dish over a charcoal fire.
A sucker for a good story, no matter the origin, I committed myself to finding the best spaghetti alla carbonara our trip had to offer. From Bellagio to Milan to Venice, I ordered the same dish, and each time something different was placed in front of me. Some contained cream; others, wild boar; still others had the temerity to sport sauteed onions and garlic, which tipped the balance of flavors.
After arriving home and discovering I had gained 14 pounds (the hazards of research), I briefly entertained the idea of Diane’s denuded version from years ago. But the real thing in all its iterations had wooed me and won. Now, would someone pass the Parmigiano-Reggiano, please?
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
I’ve made this carbonara recipe with an extra yolk–as well as with all yolks. It’s up to you. The extra fat adds a silky richness to the dish–which no amount of jabber from Weight Watchers can convince me otherwise.–David Leite
Raw Egg Reminder Note
Hey, in case you hadn’t noticed, this recipe contains raw egg. Please be mindful if making it for anyone for whom this is a potential no-no.
Spaghetti alla Carbonara Recipe
- Quick Glance
- 10 M
- 25 M
- Serves 4
- 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
- 6 ounces thickly sliced pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
- 2 tablespoons kosher salt
- 1 pound spaghetti
- 3 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk, well beaten
- 3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, combined with 1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until it ripples. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until crisp. Slide the pan off the heat and forget about it for a few minutes.
- 2. Meanwhile, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add the salt and the spaghetti and cook, stirring often to prevent the pasta from clumping, until al dente. Drain, reserving 3/4 cup of the pasta cooking water.
- 3. Working quickly, transfer the hot spaghetti to the skillet with the pancetta and place over very low heat. Immediately add the beaten eggs, half of the cheese, and toss well. Add just enough of the reserved pasta water to make the mixture lusciously creamy. Sprinkle generously with pepper and serve at once. Pass the remaining cheese at the table.
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Spaghetti alla Carbonara Recipe © 2004 David Leite. Photo © 2004 Robert Olding. All rights reserved.