Fritto Misto Amalfitano

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by David Pasternack and Ed Levine
from The Young Man & the Sea
(Artisan, 2007)
Serves 4

Every port in Italy has a fried fish combination plate, but not too many have good ones. On the Amalfi Coast, however, they know how to do fried seafood right. The key is to make sure the oil is at the right temperature. I fry fish at 275°F (135°C), which is at least 100 degrees (Fahrenheit) lower than what most people do. I also use a combination of half olive oil and half vegetable or peanut oil: The lower temperature and the oil combination keeps the fish crispy on the outside and moist on the inside. Use whatever fish looks best at your local market. The fried lemon slices, which I first saw on the Amalfi Coast, are a great touch.—David Pasternack and Ed Levine

convert Ingredients
6 cups extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups canola oil
1 1/2 cups Wondra (see Note)
1 cup cornstarch
Pinch of sugar
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound squid, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
4 ounces shucked oysters
4 ounces bay scallops
1/2 pound scrod, cut into 1 1/4-inch strips
2 lemons, 1 thinly sliced and 1 cut into wedges

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Directions
1. Combine the olive and canola oils in a Dutch oven or stockpot. There should be 8 inches of oil. If there isn’t, add more, to bring it to that depth. Set the pot over a medium flame. Using a thermometer, bring the oil to 275°F (135°C) and maintain that temperature.

2. In a wide mixing bowl, while the oil is heating, combine the flour, cornstarch, sugar, cayenne, and 2 teaspoons each of salt and pepper. Dredge the fish and the lemon slices, a few pieces at a time, in the flour mixture, shaking off the excess before gently lowering the pieces into the hot oil (use tongs or a slotted spoon). The pieces should bubble and sizzle but not spatter; lower or raise the flame accordingly.

3. Cook four to six pieces at a time, until they are golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. (While cooking the fish, keep an eye on the oil temperature. It will drop after the raw ingredients are added and climb while they are cooking. Do not let it climb above 280°F [138°C].) Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper-towel-lined tray. Season with salt and pepper while the pieces are still hot out of the oil.

4. After the cooked fish and lemon slices have drained, serve, family-style, garnished with the lemon wedges.

Note: I always use Wondra for frying fish. It’s specially formulated and is a soft, powdery flour, so the excess is easily shaken off. It never clumps and it stands up to high heat, making for a cleanly fried piece of fish.

Recipe © 2007 by David Pasternack and Ed Levine. All rights reserved.