Loading ...What We’re Eating: Heirloom Beans by Steve Sando
It seems like forever since pork and beans meant a can of Van Camp’s or Campbell’s. Decades ago, American households were aware of only the common bean: navy, kidney, great Northern, and pinto. Then, as our curiosity in everything culinary grew, people became clued into cannellini, fava, and soy beans, to name a few. On top of that, our interest in nutrition taught us that beans are a tremendous source of protein and fiber, all while being low in cholesterol.
Then along came a guy named Steve Sando, who said he has a passion for food that’s indigenous to the New World. And he does things like call beans “romantic” and says he wants to teach anyone who will listen about them. I’m not sure about the romantic part, but he could have won me over had he said “gorgeous.” Black Calypso, Christmas Lima, Eye of the Tiger, Wren’s Egg, Yellow Eye — the names are as intriguing as the beans are beautiful.
When I saw the lovelies featured in Heirloom Beans and on the Web site Rancho Gordo, the name of Steve’s company, I wanted to fill apothecary jars full of them for display. Ah, but then I would have missed the creamy mouth feel of cranberry beans or the plumpness of Good Mother Stallard beans.
Co-author Vanessa Barrington says, “heirloom beans have so much inherent character, and the different beans are so varied in texture, color, and flavor, that they are perfectly delicious on their own.” But our testers enjoyed them dressed with other ingredients and gave high marks to Steve’s Senate Bean Soup, Borlotti Beans in Tomato Sauce with Creamy Polenta, and Chiles Rellenos Rancho Gordo.
Beans have long been maligned as the musical fruit for some rather, shall we say, unmelodious reasons, but after sampling Steve’s beauties, I think I shall call them what they really are: magical.
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