Tiramisu

print

by Todd English and Sally Sampson
from The Figs Table
(Simon & Schuster, 1998)
Serves 8 to 10

Tiramisu, like crème brûlée, has become overdone and almost as popular (if not more popular) than cheesecake and apple pie. I’m afraid that my kids are going to expect tiramisu to be available at the ballpark! Although if it’s well made, it might not be such a bad thing. All kidding aside, tiramisu is a serious dessert and should be taken seriously. In my most humble opinion, I think this recipe makes the best tiramisu I’ve ever tasted which is why I can’t take it off the Figs menu and why I include it here. This is the most complicated dessert we make at Figs. Although this recipe looks arduous, most of it can be made ahead of time and assembled the day you want to serve it.—Todd English and Sally Sampson

convert Ingredients
For the tiramisu cream
(This can be made up to three days ahead and refrigerated.)
2 cups milk
1/2 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise and scraped
4 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch
3/4 cup cream cheese, at room temperature
1/4 cup mascarpone cheese, at room temperature
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 tablespoons confectioners sugar

For the coffee simple syrup
5 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup water
1 1/2 cups double-strength coffee, or espresso

For the genoise
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting the pan
1/2 cup cornstarch
8 large eggs
1 cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3/4 teaspoon almond extract
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Cocoa powder, for garnish

Want it? Click it.

Directions
Make the cream
1. Place the milk and vanilla bean in a large saucepan over medium-high heat and scald the milk. Almost bring it to a boil, and when tiny bubbles begin to form (this should take about 5 minutes), remove the milk from the heat and let it steep for 30 minutes. Strain the milk and discard the bean. (Or you can do as we do at Figs: Dry the bean out and add it to white sugar to make vanilla sugar.)

2. While the milk is scalding, place the egg yolks and egg in a medium-sized bowl, mix to combine, and gradually whisk in the sugar. (If you do not do this gradually, the sugar will “cook” the egg yolks due to a chemical reaction.) Gradually whisk in the cornstarch.

3. Place the cream cheese, mascarpone cheese, and butter in a bowl and cream together, until just smooth.

4. Drizzle half the milk mixture into the egg mixture, whisking all the while; then add this mixture back into the remaining milk mixture in the saucepan, whisking all the while. Place the saucepan over medium heat, whisking constantly, and cook until the cornstarch “blooms”: When it bubbles once, count to five and then turn off the heat. The mixture will thicken very fast: Continue whisking until it has the consistency of mayonnaise. As soon as it does, strain it into the bowl of the mixer with the cream cheese, pushing the mixture through the strainer with a spatula and eliminating any bits of cooked egg that might appear. On low speed, combine the egg and cream cheese until the color is consistent.

5. Transfer to a shallow pan and place a layer of plastic wrap directly on top of the mixture, stopping any skin from forming. Place in the refrigerator. Just prior to assembling the tiramisu: Place the cream, vanilla, and confectioners’ sugar in a mixer and whip until it forms stiff peaks. Gently fold half the whipped cream into the mascarpone cream with a rubber spatula. Repeat with the remaining whipped cream.

Make the simple syrup
1. Place the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the coffee or espresso and stir until combined. Set aside to cool.

Make the genoise
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spray a cookie sheet with 1-inch sides or a jelly-roll pan with vegetable spray and line it with parchment or wax paper. Spray the paper and sprinkle it with flour.

2. Sift the flour and cornstarch together into a bowl. Set aside.

3. Place the eggs and sugar in the metal bowl of a mixer and whisk together.

4. Place a medium saucepan over high heat and fill halfway with water. When the water is hot, place the metal bowl in it and cook until the sugar dissolves, whisking all the while. Do not allow the bottom of the metal bowl to touch the bottom of the saucepan. Return the bowl to the mixer and whisk at high speed until cooled, about 5 to 6 minutes. Turn the speed to low and while the mixer is running, add the vanilla and almond extracts and then gradually add the flour mixture. As soon as the flour is incorporated, add the melted butter. Turn off the mixer as soon as the butter is incorporated.

5. Stir once with a rubber spatula and then pour onto the prepared sheet or pan. Have the bowl as close to the pan as possible so that you move the batter as little as possible and don’t move the air around a lot. Spread the mixture evenly and gently transfer to the oven. Bake until it is golden brown, starts to pull away from the sides, and springs back when touched gently, about 14 to 16 minutes.

Assemble
1. Avoid using the stove or dishwasher while assembling the tiramisu; the kitchen should be as cool as possible. All the ingredients should be completely cooled.

2. Now, for the hard part: Cut the genoise into 4 even rectangles. Place each block, 1 at a time, on a cutting board and slice it horizontally with a serrated knife, into 2 to 3 thin slices. Place 1 layer of genoise in the bottom of a 10-inch round springform pan or a 2-quart bowl. Drizzle about to cup coffee simple syrup over the cake, allowing it to soak in. Place half the tiramisu cream on the genoise and dust evenly with cocoa powder. Cover with the remaining genoise and repeat the process again, dusting the top of the tiramisu heavily with the cocoa powder.

3. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.

Recipe © 1998 Todd English. All rights reserved.