by John Ash with Sid Goldstein
from From the Earth to the Table: John Ash’s Wine Country Cuisine
(Chronicle, 2007)
Makes 2 medium loaves or about 20 rolls
Buttery brioche is one of life’s great pleasures. It can be shaped into the familiar rolls with a topknot or baked in a loaf pan. It’s delicious toasted and is the basis for the very best bread puddings. For a savory treat, try baking brioche rolls with a little square of creamy goat cheese or Camembert placed in the center of the dough. Brioche also makes the most wonderful toast to eat as is or to use as the base of a simple winter dish of creamed mushrooms and leeks. My grandmother used to do a variation of this, adding sliced hard-boiled eggs and sherry to the cream sauce. —John Ash
convert Ingredients
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup sugar
3 packages active dry yeast
6 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks, at room temperature and lightly beaten
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
4 to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for greasing the pans
Vegetable oil, for greasing the bowl
1 large egg beaten with 1 tablespoon milk
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Directions
1. In a small saucepan, heat the milk and sugar, stirring, so that it is just warm to the touch [120°F (49°C)]. Pour the mixture into the bowl of an electric mixer or a large bowl and sprinkle the yeast on top.
2. Stir briefly to dissolve and let the mixture sit for 5 to 10 minutes, until it begins to foam. Add the beaten eggs and yolks, the salt, and 3 cups of the flour to the bowl and beat with the electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or by hand with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is smooth. Add the butter a tablespoon or two at a time and beat into the dough. Add the remaining flour 1/2 cup at a time, beating continuously until the dough is shiny and no longer sticky, about 5 minutes.
3. Transfer the dough to a large, lightly oiled bowl, and turn the dough to coat it. Cover the bowl with a towel and let the dough rise until doubled, about 1 hour. Butter 2 medium loaf pans or 20 individual brioche molds. Punch down the dough and knead briefly. Divide the dough among the prepared pans or molds. Let it rise until doubled, about 1 hour.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Brush the tops of the brioche with the beaten egg-milk glaze. Bake on the center rack for about 25 minutes for loaves and 12 to 14 minutes for rolls. Check periodically — the brioche should be a rich golden brown and firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and cool slightly before turning out from the pan.
Recipe © 1995 and 2007 by John Ash and Sid Goldstein. All rights reserved.
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[Linda Pacchiano] I make brioche loaves and rolls fairly regularly since I learned the proper techniques in pastry school. However, this is, by far, the best brioche I have ever made. It rose to a beautful height, exceeding the height of my pan. The crust was absolutely perfect and baked to a uniform, deep golden brown. The crumb was also perfectly light and very flavorful. You may need to increase the baking time of the loaf—mine took 40 minutes rather than the 25 minutes stated in the recipe.
[Jenna Helwig] This recipe has become my go-to dish for every sort of brunch imaginable: baby shower, parents in town, company over, holiday…the list is endless. The entire dish is prepped and refrigerated the night before–which is a huge plus. All you have to do, the morning of your event, is pop it in the oven and drizzle the dish with a little butter. While convenience is good, taste is the most important factor, of course, and this French toast really delivers. It’s tender, buttery, and studded through with nuts and raisins. I often use only half as much cream cheese as the recipe calls for, since it already seems like enough of a good thing. This recipe is a hit every time I make it!