Fat Fat-Cooked Fries

by Jennifer McLagan
from Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes
(Ten Speed Press, 2008)
Serves 4

Video Interview

This is a recipe for big, fat wedges of potato cooked in duck fat. Unlike potatoes Sarladaises, these potatoes are soft, not crisp, but they are equally satisfyingly imbued with the flavor of the duck fat. I love that the source of this recipe is Michel Guerard, the author of Cuisine Minceur (Diet Food). It is reassuring to know that the chef who gave us French lean cuisine also appreciates the power of duck fat. Yukon gold potatoes are a good all-purpose potato, but this dish is also good with a floury baking potato, like russets. Oval potatoes make the best-shaped fries. This is a good dish to make when you want to use up the fat from making confit. Serve these potatoes with confit or grilled meats.—Jennifer McLagan

convert Ingredients
4 (about 1 3/4 pounds) Yukon gold potatoes
1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) duck fat
1 garlic clove, unpeeled
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Fleur de sel

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Method
1. Peel the potatoes and cut lengthwise into quarters. Rinse them under cold water and place in a bowl. Cover with cold water and leave to soak for 30 minutes.

2. Drain the potatoes and dry them well. In a heavy flameproof casserole large enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer, heat the duck fat over medium-high heat. When it begins to smoke, add the potatoes and the garlic clove. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the potatoes, turning them so that they color evenly, until golden on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Remove the garlic and discard. Transfer the potatoes to a large plate and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat. Return the potatoes to the pan, cover, and cook over low heat until they are cooked through, about 15 minutes. Check the potatoes regularly, turning if necessary, and if you hear the fat spitting, lift the lid and wipe off the excess moisture on the inside of it.

4. When the potatoes are soft in the center, transfer them to a warmed dish and sprinkle with the chopped parsley and fleur de sel, turning so they are well coated.

Recipe © 2008 by Jennifer McLagan. All rights reserved.
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