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Portuguese Gratin of Shrimp and Spinach

This is a popular dish in and around the beautiful UNESCO town of Évora, in central Alentejo. A version is on the menus at Restaurante Tasquinha do Oliveira, A Bolota, and Herdade do Esporão. It even made a splash at Terreiro do Paço, in Lisbon, one of the city’s most elegant dining spots. This is the more casual cousin to the original. Succulent shrimp and earthy spinach are coated in a creamy port sauce that’s studded with bits of cured ham. On top is a smattering of bubbling hot cheese that gives depth without lending fussiness.–David Leite

Atenção

Spinach is a vegetable that keeps on giving — water that is. Squeeze it very well after cooling, or the dish will be adrift in a sea of khaki-colored liquid.

The original recipe calls for hard-to-find Limiano cheese, a type of queijo de Flamengo (Flemish cheese) identical to a mild, inoffensive Dutch Edam. I find a snappy Fontina or Gruyère makes a better substitute.

Portuguese Gratin of Shrimp and Spinach Recipe

  • Quick Glance
  • 1 H
  • 1 H, 30 M
  • Serves 6

Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 pounds medium shrimp, shelled, deveined, and roughly chopped
  • 1 pound fresh spinach, trimmed
  • 1 medium yellow onion, minced
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • One 1/8-inch-thick slice presunto, Serrano ham, or prosciutto, trimmed of excess fat, cut into 1/8-inch cubes (about 1/2 cup)
  • 1/2 cup tawny port or fruity white wine
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 cups whole milk, warmed
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
  • 1 cup (about 3 1/2 ounces) shredded queijo Limiano, Fontina, or Gruyère cheese

Directions

  • 1. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until just opaque, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
  • 2. Lower the heat to medium, drizzle in another tablespoon of the oil if the skillet is dry, and add the spinach. Cook, stirring often, until it gives off no more liquid, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a colander to cool.
  • 3. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of oil into the skillet and add the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and presunto and cook for 2 minutes more. Pour in the port and let it burble until almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape the mixture into the bowl containing the shrimp.
  • 4. Position the rack to the center of the oven and crank the heat to 350°F (175°C).
  • 5. Reduce the heat under the skillet to medium-low and warm the butter in the skillet until it melts. Add the flour and cook, stirring continually, for 2 to 3 minutes, being mindful it doesn’t color. Slowly add the warm milk, whisking vigorously. Bring the sauce to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low, and simmer, whisking continually, until it’s the consistency of a creamy bisque and has no floury taste, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and scrape it into the shrimp bowl.
  • 6. When the spinach is cool, squeeze it in cheesecloth to remove excess moisture, add it to the shrimp mixture, and mix well. Spoon the filling into a shallow 2-quart ovenproof baking dish, top with the cheese, and bake until bubblingly hot and mottled with brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Let sit for 10 minutes before serving.
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