Pastry Paris

It’s hard not to love a city with a patisserie on nearly every block, where pastries are sold all day long to people who never get fat.

I came to Paris middle-aged, divorced, and newly in love. Granting myself a sabbatical and renting out my suburban home, I moved with my beau to this romantic city for a year of living shamelessly.

Abandoning restraint, and with the appetite of a teenager, I found my muse in butter, cream, and sugar, shaped into sweet sculptures that rival the ones in the city’s museums.

I saw pastries everywhere, and not just in the patisseries. The dome of Sacré-Coeur, gas caps on the sidewalks, topiary in the Place des Vosges

In Paris, everything looks like dessert. 

~ ~ ~

Napoleon | Croissant
If there’s a national symbol of France it would have to be the croissant. A virtual match to Napoleon’s headgear, it’s the iconic breakfast item of the land. Light, buttery, and flaky, a croissant is the perfect way to start a day of indulgence in the city where indulgence never sleeps. One of the greatest pleasures in eating le petit déjeuner in Paris is the reckless tearing into a buttery croissant while telling yourself you’re only doing it in order to experience the local culture.

Haystacks | Brioche
The famous quote generally (but falsely) attributed to Marie Antoinette, “Let them eat cake,” was actually “Let them eat brioche.” Despite the continuing controversy over who really said these words, they were the rallying cry against the French royalty and its obliviousness to the suffering of the peasants in a time of famine. In fact, French law at the time obligated bakers to sell expensive breads like brioche at the same price as ordinary ones if the plain ones were sold out, so the remark may not have been as heartless as it sounds.

Ironwork | Palmier
The pastry palmier is made of hundreds of paper-thin layers of dough, prevented from sticking together by a heart-stopping amount of butter. The best ones are golden brown, caramelized, crackling, and flaky, and collapse in your mouth at first bite. The distinctive curled-in/curled-out shape is a visual motif that shows up in many forms outside the kitchen: in the box hedges of formal gardens, woven into tapestries and wallpapers, in decorative ironwork, on mosaic floors, even in the ubiquitous fleur-de-lis, the iconic symbol of the French monarchy—just reverse the outward curve of the leaves, and voilà! The palmier.

Buy the Pastry Paris book

Want it? Click it.

Doorknobs | Canelé
Long story short, a canelé is not a cannelé. The pastry cake known as canelé is the original, officially known as canelé de Bordeaux. It’s shaped like a squat fluted column just a couple of inches high, with a thick, almost black, caramelized crust surrounding a custardy interior flavored with vanilla and rum. Over the course of three hundred years, alternate versions of the original recipe sprung up. Flavorings like chocolate and orange were added, and this unregulated tinkering distressed the bakers of Bordeaux. In the 1980s, an organization was formed to protect the original secret recipe, which is locked in a vault in the city of Bordeaux. The official ruling of the Brotherhood was as follows: Bake it by the book and you can spell it with one “n.” All other versions must use two.

Hat | Normandy Brioche
The rich, egg-y, and buttery Normandy brioche has been around since 1404, according to food historians. The tall, cylindrical brioche mousseline is made with double the usual amount of butter and is delicious with preserves, honey, chocolate—and more butter. It looks like it would make a fine hat.

Domes | Religieuse
The Religieuse is a voluptuous pair of cream puffs, one sitting on top of the other, bonded together with buttercream and coated with a glaze of fondant icing. Curiously, this pastry eventually became known as the Religieuse—French for “nun”—because of its resemblance to a nun’s habit. One look at the silhouette, however, and you would also have to include the great domes of Paris among the Religieuse’s look-alikes—Les Invalides, Sacré-Coeur, the Panthéon, and the interior of the grand Galeries Lafayette department store, its stained glass dome as visually delicious as a box of sugared jellies.

About Susan Hochbaum

Susan Hochbaum is a graphic designer based in New York City who's worked with museums, educational institutions, and the fashion and entertainment industries. She's also created the charming book from which the above text was excerpted and a related film short, dubbed Pastry Paris, that debuts this fall at the NYC Food Film Festival. You can see the world through her eyes at her website.

Comments
Comments
  1. Sofia says:

    The few times I went to Paris, alas, I was too young to remember. Yet I was brought up in French schools around the world and even though not quite Paris, we actually had our share of beautiful pastries at our French schools. Nothing like starting the morning with a warm, soft, buttery, flaky croissant and chocolat au lait, then by mi day we would have a palmier or a petit pain au chocolat. Ahhh the memories, the scents. Thank you… this brought back good high school times that I dearly miss, something my daughters unfortunately will never know here in the States.

  2. Allyn says:

    Does it get any more romantic than being swept off to Paris by beau? I don’t think so! Paris is high on my life list. Managed to cross Scotland off a few months ago with my very own beau on our honeymoon!
    And now I really want a pastry. Sigh.

  3. Rick Casner says:

    Thanks for providing what is essentially a ‘Field Guide’ for French Pastry. Sort of like the ‘Peterson’s Guide to Birds’ only far more useful. A few years ago there was a baker up on Hope Street in Providence, RI, who made croissants which were amazingly close to their Parisian forebearers. Tons of butter. Slightly flakey. So was the baker. When he finally gave up on trying to sell “art” in the midst of all those doughnuts and closed up shop and moved on, my family and I placed a wreath on his door. I wept openly…

  4. Zanne says:

    About 25 years ago there was a little take-out shop on the corner of Belden Place in San Francisco. It was owned by two young French guys and they made the best croissants and cinnamon brioche that could be had in the city – and phenomenal coffee. Unfortunately, I think that after a few years they got homesick and went back to France. They sold the business to some locals and the croissants began to resemble the doughy, ubiquitous “meadow muffins” that most Americans think of when you ask for a croissant. But for a few years I was in breakfast heaven. I’m sure that now there are wonderful croissants in San Francisco again, but I’m not there, or really anywhere :-} , that allows me to enjoy a real croissant again. I’m going to be craving croissants and brioche for weeks until I can slowly let them drift into just a memory again. (Sigh).

    • Renee Schettler Rossi, LC Editor-in-Chief says:

      Zanne, hold on, we have a recipe coming up soon that we think you may wish to tackle. I promise it will make you swoon. Stay tuned, although I’ll be certain to email you when it posts so that you don’t miss it…

      • Zanne says:

        Renee, I’ll be waiting – I’m getting the taste buds ready right now! For the last month I’ve been also craving an almond croissant (a little almond paste in the middle with sugared almonds on top). OMG, this is culinary torture :-}

        • Rick Casner says:

          Then there’s always the ham & cheese croissant…and the one with chocolate….and I seem to remember one with aspargrass & Brie….

          • Zanne says:

            OK, now that was not nice, Rick. I won’t be able to sleep tonight – I’ll be dreaming of croissants. :-{

            • Renee Schettler Rossi, LC Editor-in-Chief says:

              Hang on, Zanne! It’s just a matter of weeks before we hook you up with that recipe…

  5. Jamie says:

    Ah, yes, you have named the classics, those pastries that have now come to be a part of my everyday life. One thing, though, that I love about France is the constant discovery as I get to travel around the country, from city to city, of the secrets pastry treasures, local specialties that have succeeded in remaining local secrets. It is like a treasure hunt each time I travel.

Have something to say?

Then tell us. Have a picture you'd like to add to your comment? Send it along. Covet one of those spiffy pictures of yourself to go along with your comment? Get a free Gravatar. And as always, please take a gander at our comment policy before posting.

*

Daily Subscription

Enter your email address and get all of our updates sent to your inbox the moment they're posted. Be the first on your block to be in the know.

Preview daily e-mail

Weekly Subscription

Hate tons of emails? Do you prefer info delivered in a neat, easy-to-digest (pun intended) form? Then enter your email address for our weekly newsletter.

Preview weekly e-mail