Gifts Cooks Love | Andrews McMeel, 2010 | Makes 3 to 4 half-pint jars

Just try to resist eating this Meyer lemon curd from the jar with a spoon! Pack the lemon curd into jars for gift giving, but save a jar for yourself and spread it on toasted brioche or warm-from-the-oven scones. There’s enough to fill tiny shortbread tarts [Editor's Note: Or slather on shortbread, for that matter] or to dollop on an angel food cake served with fresh strawberries. The lemon curd is delightful when layered with raspberries and blueberries for a summertime parfait.

As a gift-giving tip, offer all these suggestions on a gift card and include a recipe card. Tie each jar with raffia or ribbon and attach card. To turn this into a gift basket, consider including baked scones, biscuits, or even a loaf of poppy seed cake. It’s a perfect hostess gift—ready to be enjoyed at breakfast, at teatime, or for dessert.–Diane Morgan

LC Zestfully Yours Note: If you’re one of those types who loathes pulp in your orange juice, chances are you’re not going to be too keen on the inclusion of zest in this lovely, lovely curd. Wait! All is not lost. You can still impart a distinct and luscious Meyer lemon-y-ness to the curd and end up with impeccably smooth results by adding the zest a little earlier in the process and then straining it out. We propose adding the zest to the sugar before you whisk in the eggs and egg yolks, rubbing the sugar and zest mixture between your fingertips to really permeate and perfume the sugar with a lemony lilt. (Do note, if you strain the curd, your yield will be closer to 3, not 4, half-pint jars.)

Special Equipment: You'll need an instant-read or a candy or a deep-fry thermometer and 3 or 4 half-pint jars with lids.

Active time: 15 minutes | Total time: 25 minutes, not including processing and cooling

Meyer Lemon Curd Recipe

Directions

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Bonus Recipe: Meyer Lemon Mousse with Fresh Berries

• Meyer Lemon Curd is tangy and decadent spooned straight from the jar, but resist temptation so you can try this simple, luscious mousse. Transfer all of the lemon curd to a medium bowl. Whip 2 cups of whipping cream along with 3 tablespoons of confectioners’ sugar until soft peaks form. Using a rubber spatula, fold a glob of the whipped cream into the lemon curd to lighten it. Gently fold in the rest of the whipped cream. Spoon the mousse into parfait glasses, alternating layers with fresh berries of your choice. Refrigerate until ready to serve or up to 1 week.

Skinny Dips | Chronicle Books, 2010 | Makes 1 1/2 cups

Those of you with an herb garden will find this low-calorie green goddess dip recipe easy to make—the recipe turns a bundle of freshly clipped herbs into a delicate green, creamy sauce. The perfect dippers to go with it are garden-fresh vegetables such as asparagus spears, baby carrots, radishes, and cucumber.–Diane Morgan

LC Voluptuous Green Goddess Dip Note: Of course, if you prefer to use full-fat sour cream and mayo, we’re not even going to attempt to stop you. As for the perfect dippers for this make-ahead dip, well, crudités are swell, but who are we to complain if you pile thick-cut, kettle-cooked potato chips rather than virtuous vegetables all around the bowl?

Active time: 15 minutes | Total time: 15 minutes, not including cooling

Svelte Green Goddess Dip Recipe

Directions

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Diane Morgan | The New Thanksgiving Table | Chronicle Books, 2009 | Serves 8 to 10

Brussels sprouts are one of the most maligned winter vegetables, probably because they are often cooked so poorly. They are usually served whole, overcooked, and underflavored—but this need not be the case. Simply trimming and halving them, or better yet shredding them, brings out the flavor inside these tightly, delicately layered orbs. Diced smoked ham and toasted pecans add flavor and crunch to the sprouts.—Diane Morgan

LC Dazzling Do Ahead Note: Don’t like rushing around at the last minute? Who does? With this simple make-ahead tactic, you can focus your energies instead on convincing the veggie loathers at your table that these little green orbs don’t bite back. The ingredients can be prepared and chopped up to 8 hours in advance. Just cover the prepped Brussels sprouts, garlic, and pecans and set aside at room temperature, then chop the ham and toss it in the fridge.

Active time: 20 minutes | Total time: 20 minutes.

Sauteed Brussels Sprouts with Smoked Ham and Toasted Pecans Recipe

Directions

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Diane Morgan | The New Thanksgiving Table | Chronicle Books, 2009 | Serves 6

Oysters, along with clams and lobsters, have been harvested and relished by Native Americans along the Atlantic coast from very early times. When the English colonists arrived on the shores of North America, they recognized the richness of the sea in the abundance of the excellent, large oysters. It’s thought that the Indians taught the settlers how to tong or secure the bivalves with leather, and to dry them for winter food. Oysters were the most popular seafood along the Eastern seaboard during the nineteenth century, with oyster saloons serving raw and roasted oysters. Timeworn cookbooks have recipes for oyster stew, oyster soup, oyster pie, and oyster stuffing. For oyster lovers like me, this oyster stew is irresistible.—Diane Morgan

Oyster Stew Recipe

Directions

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1. Drain the oysters through a fine-mesh sieve placed over a small bowl to catch the oyster liquor. Set the oysters aside. Reserve the liquor.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce, paprika, and celery salt. Add the oysters and bring to a simmer. Cook just until the edges of the oysters curl. Add the oyster liquor to the pan and return to a simmer.

3. Add the milk, cream, and nutmeg. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, but do not let the oyster stew boil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Ladle the oyster stew into a warmed tureen or individual bowls, garnish with the parsley, and serve hot.

Do Ahead: Although it can be gently reheated successfully, oyster stew is best when made right before serving. Have everything measured and ready to cook—the stew is super simple to put together.

You’re probably reading this recipe and thinking—how could I possibly pull off popovers at Thanksgiving? The trick is to have the popover batter made, the butter melted, and the pan ready. As soon after the turkey comes out of the oven the muffin tin gets heated, buttered, and the hazelnut popovers go in. The burst of heat makes them puff and crisp—with a golden, nutty exterior and a soft, hollow interior. These popovers are divine.—Diane Morgan

convert Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and finely ground
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 1/4 cups milk
3 large eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

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Directions
1. In a medium bowl, or preferably a 4-cup glass measuring cup, combine the flour, hazelnuts, pepper, and salt. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth. Whisk in the eggs and then add the parsley and chives. Whisk in 2 tablespoons of the butter. Let the batter stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Whisk before using.

2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450°F (230°C). Have ready a standard 12-cup muffin pan, preferably nonstick.

3. Place the muffin pan in the oven for about 10 minutes until hot. Remove the hot muffin pan from the oven. Using a pastry brush, generously brush the muffin cups with the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Divide the batter equally among the muffin cups. Without opening the oven door at any time, bake the popovers for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven to 350°F (175°C) and continue to bake the popovers for 7 to 10 minutes longer until puffy and golden brown. Turn the popovers out of the pan, loosening them with the edge of a paring knife, if necessary. Serve immediately.

Do Ahead: The popover batter can be made up to 2 hours in advance. The popovers are best when baked right before serving.

Recipe © 2008 Diane Morgan. All rights reserved.

In my cooking classes, the students are always asking what recipes can be made in advance to simplify entertaining. This recipe for  wild rice with roasted chestnuts and cranberries is a terrific do-ahead dish for the busy holiday host. The chestnuts and the dried cranberries and apricots bring a seasonal sweetness to this savory side dish. I especially like wild rice paired with pork, goose, game birds, and a holiday turkey.

If you prefer not to roast your own chestnuts, you can buy peeled chestnuts in vacuum-sealed packages, cans, or jars at specialty-foods stores. If they are packed in liquid, drain it off. Prepared chestnuts are usually boiled rather than roasted, resulting in some flavor loss. To improve their flavor before using, place them on a rimmed baking sheet and roast them in the center of a 350°F (175°C) oven for 12 to 14 minutes.—Diane Morgan

convert Ingredients
1 1/4 pounds (about 1 1/2 cups peeled) fresh chestnuts
2 cups wild rice
2 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups water
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 cup sweetened dried cranberries
3/4 cup dried apricots, quartered
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large ribs celery, trimmed and finely chopped
2 large carrots, peeled and finely chopped
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh sage
1/2 cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley freshly ground pepper

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Directions
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

2. Using a sharp paring knife, score the flat side of each chestnut with a big X, cutting through the outer shell and inner brown skin. Place the chestnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. While the chestnuts are still quite warm but cool enough to handle, peel them with a sharp paring knife, removing both the outer shell and the inner brown skin. Discard any chestnuts that look rotten. Set aside the chestnuts that are hard to peel and rewarm them in a 400°F (200°C) oven; or place them on a paper towel and rewarm in a microwave for 45 seconds on high, repeating if necessary.

3. Cut the roasted chestnuts in half and set aside. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C).

4. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine the wild rice, chicken stock, water, and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover partially, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the wild rice is tender, about 40 minutes. (Not all of the liquid will be absorbed.)

5. In a small bowl, combine the cranberries and apricots, add hot water to cover, and allow to plump for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve.

6. In a 12-inch saute pan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter and swirl to coat the bottom. Add the celery, carrots, and onion and saute until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme, sage, and parsley and saute for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat.

7. When the wild rice is tender, drain it in a sieve and add it to the sauteed vegetables. Add the reserved chestnuts, cranberries, and apricots and stir to combine. Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

8. Use the remaining 1 tablespoon butter to grease an oven-to-table casserole. Spoon the wild rice into the casserole and cover with aluminum foil. (The wild rice can be made up to this point 1 day in advance, cooled, covered, and refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before baking, and increase the baking time from 20 minutes to 40 minutes to ensure it is heated through.)

9. Twenty minutes before serving, bake the wild rice until heated through, then serve directly from the casserole.

Recipe © 2008 by Diane Morgan. All rights reserved.

A crown roast of pork makes a spectacular presentation on a holiday buffet or dining table. Traditionally, the center of the crown roast is filled with either a bread or rice stuffing. I prefer to roast the pork without stuffing for the same reason I don’t stuff a turkey: the meat will be overcooked by the time the stuffing is cooked through. I also recommend you brine the pork. When I was developing this recipe, I first roasted the pork without brining it and was sorely disappointed in the blandness of the meat. Brining improves the texture of the pork, making it tender and juicy throughout, plus the flavors of the herbs and spices in the brine penetrate to the center of the crown roast. Plan ahead because you will need to special-order the roast from a butcher. Let the butcher know how many guests you will be serving to determine what size crown roast you will need. Plan on serving 1 or 2 chops per person. My favorite accompaniment to this roast is Wild Rice with Roasted Chestnuts and Cranberries.—Diane Morgan

Cook’s Note: Plastic oven bags made by Reynolds are found with other food storage bags at supermarkets. Buy the turkey-size bags. They are food-safe, plus they are big, strong, tear-resistant, and come with twist ties. I do not recommend using plastic garbage bags because they are not intended for food storage. The easiest way to crush whole spices is to use a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. If you have neither of these kitchen tools, place the whole spices in a heavy lock-top plastic bag; seal the bag, pressing out all the air; and pound the spices with the bottom of a small, heavy saucepan.

convert Ingredients
2 turkey-sized plastic oven bags
1 crown roast of pork (8 to 10 pounds and about 14 to 22 ribs)

For the juniper brine
1/2 cup Diamond Crystal kosher salt
1/2 cup sugar
3 fresh sage leaves
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
4 whole cloves
1 teaspoon juniper berries, crushed
1 teaspoon allspice berries, crushed
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns, crushed
4 cups cool water
4 cups ice water

For the herb and garlic paste
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Wild Rice with roasted Chestnuts and Cranberries

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Directions
1. You need to prepare the juniper brine and start brining the crown roast of pork 24 hours before you plan to start roasting it. Have ready a bowl large enough to hold the roast. Place one plastic oven bag inside the second bag to create a double thickness; then place these bags, open wide, in the bowl. Fold back the top one-third of the bags, making a collar (this helps to keep the top of the bag open). Remove the crown roast of pork from its wrapping. Place the pork inside the double-thick bags, with the rib bones pointing upward, and unfold the collar.

Make the brine
1. Combine the salt, sugar, sage, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, juniper and allspice berries, peppercorns, and cool water in a 3-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Boil for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the ice water, stir, and set aside to cool completely.

2. Pour the cooled brine over the crown roast of pork. Draw up the top of the inner bag, squeezing out as much air as possible, and secure it closed with a twist tie. Do the same for the outer bag. The pork should be completely submerged in the brine. Place the pork in the refrigerator to brine for 24 hours.

Make the roast
1. Remove the crown roast from the refrigerator 1 1/2 hours before you plan to roast it. Set the bowl aside, and place the brined pork, still in its bags, in the sink. Open and discard the bags, brine, and any herbs or spices remaining on the pork. Rinse the crown roast under cold water and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Transfer  to a shallow roasting pan.

2. Make the herb and garlic paste by combining the garlic, sage, thyme, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub the herb paste generously over all the crown roast, including inside the cavity and between the bones. Set the crown roast, rib bones down (upside down), in the roasting pan. Set aside to marinate at room temperature for up to 1 hour.

3. Thirty minutes before you plan to roast the pork, position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

4. Roast the pork for 15 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 325°F (160°C) and continue roasting the meat for 1 hour. Check the temperature of the crown roast. The pork is done when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part not touching bone registers 145° to 150°F (63° to 66°C). (A 9-pound roast should take about 1 3/4 hours to reach 145°F [63°C]). Keep in mind that the temperature of the meat will increase another 5° to 10°F as the meat rests before carving. Let the meat rest, tented with foil, for 20 minutes to allow the juices to set.

5. To serve, place the crown roast on a warmed platter so the rib bones face upward. Fill the cavity with the wild rice and scatter the remaining wild rice around the base of the roast. Alternatively, serve the wild rice or the bread stuffing on the side, or place the roast on a bed of herbs and fill the cavity with a bouquet of the same herbs. To carve the roast, use a carving fork to steady the roast and cut between the rib bones to separate the chops. Serve 1 or 2 chops per person.

Recipe © 2008 by Diane Morgan. All rights reserved.

Autumn days make me hungry for comfort foods. Is it the simmering pot of soup on the stove sending up steaming goodness or the radiating heat from the oven as a casserole bakes? As I look out my window at the gray skies and gloomy, cold rain—I’m in Portland, Oregon, after all—it’s the kitchen that beckons, certainly not the outdoor grill.My cravings are for some old family favorites. My maternal grandparents were from Lithuania, and I grew up loving beets in any form—perhaps not an obvious childhood favorite. After the holidays, my grandmother Rose would make a soup pot full of Hot Beef Borscht using up the leftover brisket or roast beef from the big family dinner. She had a root cellar because my grandfather was an avid gardener and stored the beets and cabbage he grew. I remember the tastes vividly and hunger for them. It’s January at my home, the Christmas roast is gone, and I don’t keep a root cellar, but I’m longing for those flavors.

A quick trip to the market yields a 12-ounce chunk of rare roast beef from the deli case. (I ask for 1/2-inch-thick slices so I can easily cut it into cubes.) The produce aisle has all the cold-weather vegetables I want—fennel, beets, cabbage, and onions. With grocery sacks in each hand, I come out of the rain and into the kitchen to peel, chop, and simmer.

My favorite soup pot is a heavy, copper-clad one with sturdy, stainless handles on each side. I bought this pot in Chicago 25 years ago—an expensive treasure I’ve used regularly ever since. Commercial-grade with an aluminum core and lined with stainless, it functions as well today as when I bought it, though I can’t say the copper is as pristine and shiny as it once was. A little elbow grease, coarse salt, and lemon juice would remedy that.

Over medium heat, I melt the butter and swirl to coat the pan. A bowlful of chopped onion, celery, and fennel is added, tossed, and sauteed. I want the vegetables to soften without browning before adding the fragrant spices—ground pepper, coriander, and cumin, plus caraway seeds.

I learned a long time ago while working in a restaurant kitchen to wear disposable latex gloves while working with beets. A clever chef kept her hands fresh looking while mine turned a shade of punk pink. Peeled and diced beets along with chunked cabbage and chicken stock are added to the pot. Partially covered, the borscht simmers for 35 minutes or so. I add the cubed, cooked beef, heat the soup through and ladle it into warm shallow soup bowls. Just like my grandmother, I add a dollop of sour cream. My flourish is a scattering of fennel fronds.

It takes me back to delicious food memories and allows me to offer the tradition to my children.

Hot Beef Borscht
Serves 6 to 8

convert Ingredients
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 ribs celery, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 fennel bulb, stalks and bulb cut into 1/2-inch dice, feathery fronds chopped and reserved for garnish
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon ground pepper
3 beets, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (see Note)
1/2 small green cabbage, cut into 1/2-inch dice
7 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
3/4 pound cooked brisket or roast beef, cut into 1/2-inch dice
Kosher or sea salt
1/2 cup sour cream

Method
1. In a heavy soup pot over medium heat, melt the butter and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion, celery, and fennel and saute, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Cover and cook until the vegetables are softened but not brown, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the coriander, cumin, caraway seeds, and pepper. Saute, stirring constantly, until the spices are fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the beets, cabbage, and stock or broth and bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and simmer until the beets are tender, about 35 minutes.

3. Add the cubed beef to the pot and heat through. Add salt to taste. Ladle into warmed soup bowls. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and garnish with the chopped fennel fronds.

Note: Look for disposable surgical gloves, to use when working with the beets, at a pharmacy or in a supermarket where bandages and first-aid supplies are sold.

The flavor of fresh crabmeat is so good on its own that my primary goal in developing this hors d’oeuvre was to use a minimum of ingredients. I wanted to highlight the crab flavor and texture, not mask it. Although I keep a jar of sambal ulek — an Indonesian hot chile paste — in my refrigerator at all times, I thought it might be too obscure to use in this recipe. When I went shopping to buy sambal ulek, my Asian market was out of stock, but my local supermarket had it in the Asian-foods section — yours probably will, too.

Cook’s note: Sambal ulek, also spelled sambal oelek, is an Indonesian condiment made from chiles, salt, vinegar, and sometimes garlic and tamarind. Sold in jars, it is a fiery paste with bright flavors — a little goes a long way. Other Asian chile pastes with garlic can be substituted, but this one is a favorite of mine. If refrigerated after opening, it will keep indefinitely.—Diane Morgan

convert Ingredients
For the wonton cups
20 wonton wrappers (from one 14-ounce package), each cut into 3-inch squares
3 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

For the crab filling
8 ounces fresh-cooked crabmeat, picked over for shells and well drained
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon minced fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon snipped fresh chives
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1/4 teaspoon sambal ulek (see Cook’s note), or more to taste
20 little fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

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Directions
Make the wonton cups
1. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Have ready two 12-cup miniature muffin pans. Working with wonton wrappers at a time, brush the top side of each wrapper with sesame oil, and press, oiled side down, into a muffin cup. Repeat with the remaining wrappers. Brush the bottom of each wonton cup with a little sesame oil.

2. Bake until the wontons are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely in the tins, then remove carefully. Store in a tightly covered container at room temperature until ready to fill. (The cups can be made up to 2 days ahead.)

Make the crab filling
1. Place the crabmeat in a medium bowl and use your fingers to flake the crabmeat. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir in the mayonnaise, minced cilantro, chives, lemon zest, and sambal ulek. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a bit more sambal ulek, if desired. Cover and refrigerate until ready to fill the wonton cups. (The crab filling can be made up to 1 day ahead.)

2. To assemble and serve, place the wonton cups on a serving platter. Spoon about 2 teaspoons of the crab filling into each cup, and garnish with a cilantro leaf.

Recipe © 2008 Diane Morgan. All rights reserved.