Baking for All Occasions | Chronicle, 2008 | Makes one 9-by-5-inch cake; 14 servings

Lemon and cream cheese have long been classic companions in American baking, and this fun-to-assemble, sweet-tart filled coffee cake makes it easy to see why. Showcasing the lively flavors of fresh citrus, the sweet, buttery filling is made with fluffy, fragrant lemon and orange zest. The warm loaf is brushed with a zippy cream cheese icing, whose tangy flavor marries marvelously with the sunny taste of citrus. Enjoy a slice of this pull-apart coffee cake whenever you need a pick-me-up.–Flo Braker

LC Huzzahs! Note: Still not convinced? Here’s what folk are saying about this sweetly tart, citrusy cake… “It was absolutely the best thing I’ve put in my mouth in a long time.” “Incredible.” “Perfect.” “Huzzahs!”

Active time: 60 minutes | Total time: 3 hours, 45 minutes

Lemon-Scented Pull-Apart Coffee Cake Recipe

Directions

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Flo Braker | Baking for All Occasions | Chronicle Books, 2008 |Serves 20

This inviting holiday cake is the next best thing to eggnog in a cup. The dense yet tender cake showcases the incomparable flavor of eggnog, while rum, nutmeg, and currants add a complementary dimension. Bake it in your favorite patterned Bundt pan, and brush the warm cake with the rum glaze. As the cake cools, the crystallized topping clings attractively to the crevices, creating a special effect.—Flo Braker

convert Ingredients
Scant 1/2 cup
(2 1/4 ounces) dried currants
2 tablespoons dark rum or water
3 cups (13 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
8 ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups (14 ounces) granulated sugar
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup (8 fluid ounces) store-bought refrigerated (rather than canned) eggnog
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

For the crystal rum glaze
3/4 cup (5 1/4 ounces) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 tablespoons water

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Directions
1. In a small bowl, combine the currants and rum and set aside to macerate for 15 minutes. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) or 325°F (160°C) if the pan has a dark finish). Butter a 10-by-3-inch Bundt pan, lightly coat it with nonstick spray, then flour it, tapping out the excess flour. Or, butter and flour a 10-by-4 1/4-inch tube pan with or without a removable bottom. If the pan has an intricate design or detail, I take extra precaution, spreading it first with solid vegetable shortening, followed by a coating of nonstick spray, and then a dusting of flour to ensure the finished cake releases in one piece. Have all of the ingredients at room temperature.

2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg onto a sheet of waxed paper; set aside. Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-low speed until creamy and smooth, 30 to 45 seconds. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the sugar in a steady stream and continue to beat on medium speed until light in color and fluffy, about 5 minutes, stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl.

3. With the mixer still on medium speed, add the eggs, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time, beating after each addition until incorporated and stopping the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. On the lowest speed, add the flour mixture in four additions alternately with the eggnog in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and mixing after each addition until incorporated. Stop the mixer as needed to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the vanilla during the final moments of mixing.

4. Detach the paddle and bowl from the mixer, and tap the paddle against the side of the bowl to free the excess batter. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the currants and any remaining rum. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly with the spatula.

5. Bake the cake just until the top springs back when lightly touched in the center and the sides are beginning to come away from the pan, 55 to 65 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool in the pan for about 10 minutes while you prepare the glaze.

Make the crystal rum glaze
1. In a small bowl, combine the sugar, rum, and water and stir with a rubber spatula just until blended.

2. Without delay, tilt and rotate the cake pan while gently tapping it on a counter to release the cake sides. Invert a wire rack on top of the cake, invert the cake onto it, and carefully lift off the pan. Slide a sheet of waxed paper under the rack to catch any drips from the glaze. Using a pastry brush, coat the top and sides of the warm cake with all of the glaze. Let the cake cool completely before serving.

3. To serve, slide the base of a tart pan, a small rimless baking sheet, or a large offset spatula under the cake and carefully transfer it to a serving platter. Cut the cake into thin slices with a sharp or serrated knife.

Recipe © 2008 Flo Braker. Recipe © 2008 Scott Peterson. All rights reserved.

Flo Braker | Baking for All Occasions | Chronicle Books, 2008 |Makes 12 to 14 servings

My twist on the classic red velvet cake takes the form of a roulade rolled around a silky white chocolate cream. To disguise the red color from unsuspecting guests, I dust the cake with powdered sugar. Only when you slice the roulade do you see the filling and the cake’s shocking color.—Flo Braker

Active time: 45 minutes Total time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Red Velvet Cake Roll Recipe

Directions

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This luscious, buttery-flavored pound cake incorporates an easy cutting technique and a unique way to fill this delicious and attractive dessert.—Flo Braker

convert Ingredients
For the cake
2 cups sifted cake flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
5 large eggs, room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon lemon zest (1 lemon)
1 teaspoon orange zest (1 orange)
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

For the dried apricot filling, optional
1/3 cup dried apricots
1/3 cup water

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Directions
Make the cake
1. Position rack in lower third of the oven; preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Using a paper towel, lightly grease the bottom and sides of a 9-x-5-x3-inch loaf pan with solid shortening. Dust generously with all-purpose flour, shake to distribute, and tap out the excess.

2. Pour the flour and salt into a triple sifter. Sift onto a sheet of waxed paper to distribute the salt evenly and to remove any lumps in the flour.

3. Crack the eggs into a small bowl and whisk together just enough to combine yolks and whites. Add the vanilla and almond extract and stir to combine.

4. Grate only the colored portion from the lemon and orange rind for their zests: set aside. Place the butter in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer.

5. With the flat beater (paddle), cream the butter on medium speed (#5) until it is lighter in color, clings to the sides of the mixing bowl, and has a satiny appearance (this should take 30 to 45 seconds). Maintaining the same speed, add the sugar in a steady stream. When all the sugar is added, stop the machine and scrape the mixture clinging to the sides into the center of the bowl. Continue to cream at the same speed for 3 to 4 minutes or until the mixture is very light in color and fluffy in appearance.

6. With the mixer still on medium speed, pour in eggs, cautiously at first, tablespoon by tablespoon, as if you were adding oil when making mayonnaise. If at any time the mixture appears watery or shiny, stop the flow of eggs, and increase the speed until a smooth, silken appearance returns. Then decrease the speed to medium, and resume adding eggs. Continue to cream, stopping the mixer and scraping the sides of the bowl at least once. When the mixture appears almost white and fluffy and has increased in volume (about 2 to 2 1/2 minutes), detach the beater and bowl. Tap the beater against the edge of the bowl to free the excess. Stir in the lemon and orange zests with a rubber spatula.

7. Stir in about one-third of the flour at a time. Scrape the sides of the bowl often and mix until smooth after each addition.

8. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. With a rubber spatula, spread the batter, working from the center outward and creating a slightly raised ridge around the outside rim of the pan. (Even though the batter is manipulated so it is higher around the edges and lower in the center, this cake will still peak and crack in the center as it bakes as a result of aeration. This is characteristic of a heavy batter.)

9. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out free of cake. The cake, with its crust golden, should begin to contract from the pan sides.

10. Place the cake on a rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. With mitts, tilt and rotate pan, and gently tap it on the counter to see if the cake is releasing from the metal sides. If not, or if in doubt, run a small metal spatula or the thin blade of a table knife between the outer cake edge and the metal rim, freeing the sides and allowing air to get under the cake as it is rotated.

11. Cover the cake with a cooling rack, invert it onto the rack, and carefully lift pan to remove it. Cover with another rack, invert the cake, right side up, and remove the original rack. Cool completely.

Make the filling
1. No more than 30 minutes before filling the cake, begin the apricot filling, if desired. Place the apricots in a 1-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan. Pour the water over them and allow to soak for 5 minutes. Then, over medium heat, bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until almost all the water is evaporated (about 5 to 7 minutes).

2. While the mixture is warm, spoon it into a food processor fitted with the metal blade, and process until it has a sticky paste consistency.

Fill the cake
1. Once the cake has completely cooled, place it on the counter. With a 12-inch serrated knife, trim the top of the cake to make it level. Then turn it upside down, making the top of the cake the base.

2. With the tip of a small paring knife, lightly trace a V on one short end of the cake, beginning at the corners of the seam (that is, where the sides meet the top) and ending just below the middle of the cake. Each side or leg of the V should be about 2 1/2 inches long (depending on the size of your cake, of course). Turn the cake around, and do the same to the other end of the loaf.

3. Insert the paring knife into the lines you have traced to the depth of about 1/2 inch. Do this to every corner of the cake. These notches will serve as a guide for cutting a deep V-shaped piece that will be lifted out of the pound cake. Position the cake directly in front of you, with one of its short ends parallel to the edge of the counter. Taking the right side first, insert a 12-inch serrated knife into both notches, and slowly saw diagonally down that side of the V. Check often to ensure that the knife is staying in the notch and following the correct angle. Turn the cake around, and repeat the procedure on the other side. Carefully lift the triangular portion from the body of the cake, and set aside.

4. Using a metal spatula, spread a thin, even film of the dried apricot filling into the valley you have created in the cake. Then replace the triangular piece, pressing down gently to fit it into place. The filling should not be too apparent, and the cake should look almost as it did before being cut.

Note: If you plan to serve the cake within 24 hours, wrap it in plastic wrap and store at room temperature. To freeze, cover the plastic-wrapped package in foil. Label, indicating the contents and date. Freeze for no longer than 2 weeks.

Recipe © 2003 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.

This is one of my favorite cakes, and I have adapted it countless ways. Don’t be put off by Flo’s long recipe. She’s meticulous in her directions, which makes them longer and more informative, and hence fail-proof.—David Leite

convert Ingredients
8 ounces raw pistachios

For the génoise
3 ounces semisweet chocolate
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup unsifted cake flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 large eggs, room temperature
2 egg yolks, room temperature
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

For the pistachio Bavarian cream
4 ounces pistachio nuts (from above)
2 cups milk
3 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons gelatin
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
4 large egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon cocoa powder, optional

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Directions
Prepare the pistachios
1. Bring 1 1/2 cups water to a boil, pour in the pistachio nuts (4 ounces from the recipe for Bavarian cream and 4 ounces from the ingredients for the decoration), and bring just to the boil. Immediately pour the nuts into a sieve and shake to remove as much moisture as possible. The skins slip off easily while the nuts are moist and warm. Set aside half the nuts.

2. Place half the blanched nuts on a baking sheet and allow them to air-dry for 3 hours or as long as overnight. Then place in a preheated 300°F (175°C) oven to roast them slightly, enhancing their flavor but without coloring them (about 5 to 10 minutes). Remove from oven. When the nuts are cool, grind them to the consistency of cornmeal. Set aside until time to decorate the dessert.

Make the génoise
1. Position rack in lower third of oven; preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Using a paper towel, grease the bottom and sides of an 8-inch springform pan with solid shortening. Dust generously with all-purpose flour, tilt to coat, tap out the excess, and insert a parchment or waxed paper liner.

2. Chop the chocolate into matchstick-size pieces and place them with the butter in a 1 1/2-quart mixing bowl that fits snugly over another bowl half-filled with hot (140°F) water. (The water temperature can be this high because the addition of butter reduces the risk that the chocolate will scorch.) Stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and smooth; remove from the water; set aside to cool slightly.

3. Pour the flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, and baking powder in that order into a triple sifter. Sift onto a sheet of waxed paper to distribute the ingredients evenly; set aside.

4. Place the eggs and egg yolks in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Add the 1/4 cup sugar and whisk ingredients by hand to combine. Rest the bowl in a shallow pan, such as a 10-inch skillet, filled with 1 inch of hot tap water (120°F). To prevent the eggs from setting, whisk them continuously for about 30 seconds, or until the mixture has warmed to body temperature, taking care that the temperature doesn’t exceed 110°F. Rub a little of the mixture between your thumb and forefinger; it should feel smooth, not granular.

5. Place the bowl on the mixer, and with the whisk attachment, whip the mixture on medium speed (#5) until it has cooled and thickened, appears paler in color and resembles a whole-egg meringue, and has tripled or more in volume (about 3 minutes). Add the vanilla toward the end of whipping. Test if it’s time to fold in the flour by lifting the whisk. If some of the mixture falls back into the bowl in ribbons and remains on the surface, proceed. But if it sinks back into the batter right away, continue whipping for a few more minutes, or until the desired consistency is achieved. Remove the whisk and bowl from the mixer.

6. With the aid of a flexible metal icing spatula, scoop one-third of the flour mixture and sprinkle it over the top. Using a rubber spatula, fold into the batter just until incorporated. Fold in the remaining flour in two more additions. With the aid of a rubber spatula, gently pour one-third of the batter onto the chocolate mixture, and fold until combined. Now pour the rest of the batter onto the chocolate mixture and fold together until combined.

7. Gently pour the batter into the prepared pan, taking care not to deflate the foam structure you’ve created. With the rubber spatula, level and smooth the surface. Bake for 20 to 23 minutes, or until the top springs back slightly when lightly touched and the sides begin to contract from the pan. Do not overbake.

8. Place the cake on a rack to cool for 5 to 10 minutes. With mitts, tilt the pan, and gently tap it to see that it has contracted from the sides. If not, or if in doubt, run a small metal spatula or the thin blade of a table knife between the outside cake edge and the metal rim, freeing the sides and allowing air to get under the layer as it is rotated. Then release and remove the outside of the springform pan. Allow to cool completely on rack.

9. When the cake is cool, cover it with another cooling rack, invert it onto the rack, and carefully remove the springform bottom from the cake. Slowly peel off parchment liner, turn it over so that the sticky side faces up, and reposition it on top of the cake. Cover with the first rack, invert the layer right side up, and remove the top rack.

Make the Bavarian cream
1. Rest a sieve on top of a 3-quart mixing bowl to strain the filling after it has been cooked.

2. Combine the milk and ground pistachios in a 1 1/2-quart saucepan and bring just to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and let steep for 10 to 15 minutes. Pour through a second sieve to strain; extract milk from the nuts by pressing them against the sides of the sieve with a rubber spatula. Discard the nuts (their flavor is now in the milk) and measure the flavored milk, adding more milk if needed to make 1 1/2 cups.

3. Pour the water into a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over it, and set aside until softened.

4. Pour the cream and almond extract into a 1 1/2-quart deep mixing bowl, and with an electric hand mixer, whip the cream on medium to high speed (#8 to #10) until peaks barely form. Refrigerate until ready to use.

5. Whisk the egg yolks in a 1-quart mixing bowl to combine, add half the sugar, and whisk until completely incorporated.

6. Return the pistachio-flavored milk with the other half of sugar to medium heat and bring just to a boil. Remove from heat and pour about half into the egg mixture, whisking until blended. Pour mixture back into saucepan, whisk, and return to medium-low heat. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it registers 165 to 170°F (71 to 79°C) on the candy thermometer and is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon (about 45 to 60 seconds).

7. Immediately remove from the heat and pour the mixture through the sieve into the mixing bowl. Add the gelatin; stir to dissolve; then set over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the mixture occasionally to distribute the cold and prevent any lumpiness. When the mixture is syrupy and cooler than room temperature (about 8 to 10 minutes), fold in the chilled, lightly whipped cream with a rubber spatula until combined. If it goes beyond the syrupy stage and develops more body than desired, remove from the cold-water bath and whisk partially setting mixture until smooth. Then fold in the cream.

8. Pour into a container refrigerate for at least 4 hours or until cold and set.

Assemble the cake
1. Lightly oil the inside rim of the springform pan to facilitate the dessert’s removal. Trim 1/2 inch from the cake’s edge, using a small paring knife. Place a round of parchment or waxed paper inside the pan and center the génoise on it (this will make it possible to remove the dessert from the metal disk to a serving plate later).

2. The springform pan may leak, so place it on a baking sheet. (Once assembled, the dessert will go into the freezer for a short time to hasten the setting of the cream, so be certain the baking sheet fits in your freezer.)

3. Pour Pistachio Bavarian Cream into the springform pan, being certain that the gap between the trimmed cake and pan is filled, thus completely covering the génoise. The filling will come 1 inch below the springform’s top rim. Place the dessert in the freezer for 30 minutes to hasten the chilling and setting of the Bavarian cream. Cover the top of the pan with foil. Then refrigerate for at least 6 hours or preferably overnight.

Serving the cake
1. Up to 6 hours before serving, remove the dessert from the refrigerator and pat a damp sponge all around the outside of the pan. The moisture from the sponge will begin to loosen the Bavarian cream from the inside of the pan. Carefully and slowly release the springs on the pan to unmold. If the springs are stubborn, coax them with a thin-bladed knife around the edges.

2. Place the reserved ground dried pistachios on a baking sheet. Hold the dessert in one hand directly over the nuts. Tilt the cake slightly. With the other hand, pick up the ground nuts, and gently press them onto the sides and top of the Bavarian cream. Rotate the cake as you work until all the cream is covered. Press lightly with the side of a clean flexible metal icing spatula to ensure that the nuts adhere neatly. Alternately, coat only the sides of the Bavarian Cream with the ground nuts.

Optional decoration preparation
(If desired, make a template for a finishing touch: Buy acetate from an art supply store. (The joy of an acetate template is that it is reusable. To clean, run under water and pat dry.) Trace the letter P from an art book, newspaper, etc., with a pencil or felt pen. Cut it out, using a utility knife. The thinner the acetate, the easier it is to cut. The thicker it is, the easier it is to lift it from the cake after using.)

1. If using the P template, center it on top of the cake. Pour the cocoa into a sieve. Using the palm of your hand for better control of the powder’s flow, gently tap the sieve to sprinkle it evenly over the P. Carefully lift the template. Then slip under the paper a large, wide spatula and transfer the dessert onto a serving plate. Refrigerate until 15 to 30 minutes before serving.

Recipe © 2003 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.

These charming chocolate and rum buttercream creatures, each with its own personality, are known as Igels in Austria. They captured my heart in Belgium and Germany, and I know you’ll love them, too. Include them on an assorted miniature tray for a touch of delicious whimsy.—Flo Braker

convert Ingredients
For the dough
1 3/4 cup unsifted all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsifted cocoa powder
1/4 cup rice flour
1 3/4 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
2/3 cup granulated sugar

For the rum silk buttercream filling
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon dark rum
1/2 cup pine nuts

For the dark chocolate satin glaze decoration
1/4 cup solid vegetable shortening
1 pound semisweet chocolate, chopped

For the royal icing
1 cup unsifted powdered sugar
2 tablespoons (1 large) egg white
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

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Directions
Make the dough
1. In a medium bowl, briefly blend the flour, cocoa powder and rice flour with a wire whisk; set aside. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter at medium-low speed until smooth about 1 minute. Beat in the sugar at medium speed until fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Lower speed and gradually add the flour mixture, combining thoroughly.

2. Divide the dough in half; roll one portion at a time between two sheets of waxed paper to form a circle 10 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick. Leaving the dough between the waxed paper transfer the circles to a baking sheet and refrigerate until firm, for at least 2 hours or up to 3 days; or freeze, well wrapped, up to 1 month.

3. Adjust rack to lower third of oven and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Line two large cool baking sheets with parchment paper.

4. Remove one dough circle at a time from the refrigerator. Peel off top waxed paper sheet, replace it loosely on top, and flip the entire package over. Peel off and discard the second sheet of waxed paper.

5. Pinch the wide end of a 1/2-inch plain decorating tip (such as Ateco #6) into an oval to make an oval cutter. Using the cutter, cut out oval shapes in the dough, and space them 1/2 inch apart on baking sheets. Bake, one sheet at a time, for 10 to 13 minutes, or until cookies appear dull brown and feel slightly firm (lightly touch a few). Place baking sheet on a wire rack until the cookies are completely cool. To store, stack in an airtight metal container at room temperature up to 1 week.

Make the filling
1. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, whip the egg yolks until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Remove bowl from mixer stand. In a 1-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the water and sugar over low heat. Stir occasionally, washing down any sugar crystals clinging to the sides of the pan with a brush dipped in cold water, until sugar is dissolved. Increase the heat and cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 238°F (114°C) on a candy thermometer. Pour into the center of the yolks and quickly whisk vigorously to combine. Return bowl to mixer, and whip at medium speed until the egg yolk mixture thickens and cools to body temperature, about 5 minutes. Maintaining medium speed, gradually add the butter to the cooled egg yolk mixture, a tablespoon at a time. Continue mixing until all the butter has been incorporated and the buttercream is smooth and homogeneous. Add the rum, whipping until thoroughly combined.

2. Set the cookies close together on one large clean baking sheet. Using a 14-inch pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain decorating tip (such as Ateco #6), pipe an oval bulb of buttercream on each cookie. Hold a cookie in one hand as you pipe with the other. Then stick eight pine nuts into each buttercream oval as shown in the photo. Refrigerate to firm the buttercream, at least 2 hours.

Make the glaze
1. Combine the shortening and chocolate in a 3-quart mixing bowl. Place it over a saucepan filled with enough hot tap water (120 to 130°F/49 to 55°C) to reach the bottom of the bowl. Stir the mixture occasionally until the glaze is liquid and smooth and registers close to 110°F (43°F) on a candy thermometer. If water begins to cool while melting the chocolate, maintain the 120°F (49°C) temperature over very low heat.

2. Place the chilled Hedgehogs an inch apart on two wire racks set over shallow baking pans to catch drips. Ladle about 2 tablespoons glaze over each Hedgehog, to cover completely. After masking the pastries, gently move each one slightly on the rack with a small metal spatula while the glaze is liquid, to remove chocolate drippings from its underside. This neat finish also keeps the pastries from sticking to the rack.

3. Pour the glaze from the baking pans back into the saucepan, and reheat. Pour through a sieve in case any cookie crumbs have fallen into it.

4. The warm glaze sets up quickly after touching the cold, firm buttercream, leaving a gorgeous sheen. Do not refrigerate the pastries after they have been glazed.

Make the royal icing
1. When the glaze has set, mix the royal icing ingredients together in a 1 1/2-quart mixing bowl. With a hand mixer on medium speed, whip until the mixture is thick and has a marshmallow-like consistency, about 5 minutes. Fill a small handmade paper cone* with 2 tablespoons icing and pipe three tiny dots on each Hedgehog. Then, dip a toothpick into some of the remaining liquid chocolate glaze, and place a dot of it on two of the icing dots, forming the Hedgehog’s eyes. Now their true personalities will be evident.

2. Gently lift each pastry with a small metal spatula, and arrange in a single layer in a foil-lined cardboard container, such as a cake box. Cover and store at room temperature up to 2 days.

*Or, make a small pastry bag by placing the icing into one corner of a resealable plastic food bag. Cut a very small tip off one corner and pipe three tiny dots on each Hedgehog.

Decorative Note: For an easier way to decorate these Hedgehogs is to omit the pine nuts. Coat them with the chocolate glaze and, before it sets up, apply chocolate sprinkles over two-thirds of each pastry. Pipe “eyes” on the uncovered portion with the royal icing.

Recipe © 2000 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.

You taste chocolate right away when you bite into these, but the appearance of a snowy white meringue “kiss” shape atop a short tender cookie gives no clue. A creative baker can have fun with these cookies: Rather than a kiss, pipe the chocolate-flecked meringue into any shape on the cookie bases — hearts, butterflies, rosebuds, leaves, latticework, even a family coat of arms.—Flo Braker

convert Ingredients
For the dough
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsifted all-purpose flour

For the meringue
1/4 cup (about 2 large) fresh egg whites
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 ounces semisweet chocolate, finely grated

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Directions
Make the dough
1. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, cream the butter at medium speed just until smooth, about 1 minute. Beat in the sugar and salt until well combined and slightly fluffy, scraping down the sides. Lower speed, gradually add the flour, and mix just until thoroughly combined.

2. Divide the dough in half. Roll out each portion of dough between two sheets of waxed paper to form a circle 6 inches in diameter and 1/4 inch thick. Leaving the dough between the waxed paper, transfer circles to a baking sheet and refrigerate until firm, for at least 2 hours or up to 3 days; or freeze, well wrapped, up to 1 month.

3. Adjust rack to the center of the oven and preheat oven to 350°F (175°C). Line two large cool baking sheets with parchment paper.

4. Remove one dough package at a time from refrigerator. Remove top waxed paper sheet, and lay it loosely back on the dough. Turn the dough over and peel off and discard the second sheet of waxed paper.

5. Using the wide end of a 1/2-inch plain decorating tip (such as Ateco #6) as a cutter, cut out circles of dough. It they stick to the decorating tip use a chopstick or wooden spoon handle to gently push through the decorating tip to release the circle, of dough. Place the circles 1/2 inch apart on a baking sheet. Partially bake the cookies one sheet at a time, for 6 to 8 minutes only, or until just set. Set the baking sheet on a wire rack to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 225°F (110°C). When the cookies are cool, place all of them on one baking sheet lined with parchment, leaving about 1/4 inch between cookies.

Make the meringue
1. Using an electric mixer, preferably with a whisk attachment, whip the egg whites in a large bowl on medium-low speed until surface is frothy. Increase speed to medium, then pour in half the sugar and whip until soft white peaks form, about 30 seconds. While continuing to whip, slowly add the remaining sugar and the vanilla and continue whipping until the egg whites form stiff, shiny peaks, about 1 1/2 minutes.

2. Using a rubber spatula, fold the grated chocolate into the meringue. Immediately scoop all of the meringue into a 16-inch pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch plain decorating tip (such as Ateco #6). Pipe a bulb of meringue onto each cookie in a candy “kiss” shape. The bottom of the meringue “kiss” should be the diameter of the cookie circle. Bake the Meringue Bubbles for an additional 60 minutes, until the meringue is firm to the touch. Place the baking sheet on a wire rack to cool. Lift cookies from parchment when cool.

3. These are best eaten the same day. To store, place them in an airtight metal container for up to 1 week.

Recipe © 2000 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.

Golden Caramels — literally, that’s what these are in taste, color, and decoration. Decorate each caramel square with a bit of 24-karat gold. It’s simple to make richly flavored Dark Chocolate Caramels from this same recipe: just add 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate (such as Valrhona, Scharffen Berger, or Callebaut), coarsely chopped, to the sugar and corn syrup in step 3. Mmmmm, delicious!

Wrap caramels in clear cellophane or chocolate-coat them — just dip them, one by one, into tempered chocolate, shake off excess, and transfer to a sheet of aluminum foil until the chocolate sets up.—Flo Braker

convert
Ingredients
1 vanilla bean
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup light corn syrup
2 cups granulated sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and cut into 4 pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
24-karat gold leaf

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Directions
1. Line bottom and sides of a 9-inch square pan with parchment paper; set aside.

2. Split the vanilla bean in half with a small paring knife, and scrape out the seeds; discard the pod. Add the seeds to the cream in a 1 1/2-quart saucepan; scald the cream and keep the saucepan near the stove so that if the cream cools too much when needed, you can reheat it briefly.

3. In a deep, heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan over low heat, blend the corn syrup and the sugar, stirring occasionally until the mixture becomes more fluid and most of the sugar appears dissolved.

4. Stop stirring, raise heat to medium-high, and gently boil until a candy thermometer registers 305¤F (150°C) (hard-crack stage), about 9 to 10 minutes.

5. Add the butter and salt to the sugar mixture, stirring constantly. Pour in the warm vanilla-flavored cream in a slow but steady stream without letting the boiling stop (be careful — mixture foams up and is steamy). Lower heat to medium and continue to boil gently until the thermometer registers about 248°F (120°C), stirring occasionally to prevent scorching, about 14 to 15 minutes.

6. Let the candy stand about 3 minutes to allow bubbling to subside, then pour into the prepared pan without scraping the saucepan; allow to cool at least 5 hours.

7. Invert onto a clean cutting board and cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips; then cut across the strips to form 1/2-inch squares. To apply a patch of gold leaf to each square, use a small artist’s brush. With the brush, lift a tiny patch about the size of an oatmeal flake of gold leaf and deposit it on top of the caramels for decoration.

8. Cut caramels tend to stick together and not hold their shape unless individually wrapped, so for easiest storage wrap the block of caramel in aluminum foil and cut off portions as needed. Store cut caramels in layers, separated by aluminum foil in an airtight metal or plastic container in a cool place for up to 3 weeks.

Recipe © 2000 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.

Flo Braker | The Simple Art of Perfect Baking | Chronicle Books, 2003 | Serves 6 to 8

If you’ve never made one of Flo Braker’s recipes, you’re in for a treat. Her simple, comprehensive directions never lead you astray. And this recipe’s no exception. The fresh flavors of lemon and blueberry are at their best here in her easily assembled, elegant tart.—Flo Braker

Special equipment: 9-inch quiche pan with a removable bottom.

convert Ingredients
1 cup (9 ounces) Classic Sweet Pastry
2 large eggs
3/4 cup granulated sugar
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, strained
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 teaspoons lemon zest
3 tablespoons strained apricot jam
2 cups fresh blueberries

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Directions
Advance preparation
1. Prepare Classic Sweet Pastry as directed. Wrap and refrigerate it for at least 1 hour.

Baking preparations
1. At least 15 minutes before baking, position rack in lower third of oven; preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

Rolling and baking the crust
1. See recipe for Classic Sweet Pastry.

Making the filling
1. Place eggs in a small bowl and whisk just to combine. Pour in the sugar and whisk. Add the lemon juice, again whisking to combine. Add the cooled melted butter and lemon zest and blend.

Baking the tart
1. Pour the filling into the partially baked pastry shell.

2. Return to 375°F (190°C) oven and bake for 16 to 18 minutes longer, or until the crust is golden and the filling is set. (The filling bubbles toward the end of baking.) Remove and cool on a rack for 10 minutes.

3. Set the pan on a narrower elevated surface (such as a tin can), so the bottom of the pan is released as the metal rim slips down. Cool to room temperature.

Preparing the fruit
1. Heat the apricot jam just until melted but not bubbly hot. Pour into a 2-quart mixing bowl. Pour the blueberries into the warm preserves and toss gently with a rubber spatula briefly to coat most of them. Spread over the tart, leaving a 3-inch center portion of lemon filling uncovered. Serve the same day for best flavor.

Recipe © 1992 Flo Braker. Photo © 1992 Dana Gallagher. All rights reserved.

I’ve tried many recipes for sweetened pastry over the years, but this one still tastes and handles the best. It is also known as pâte sucrée. The addition of egg and sugar makes the pastry shell richer and sweeter yet less flaky than an ordinary piecrust.—Flo Braker

LC note: You might like to try this Classic Sweet Pastry Dough recipe with Flo’s Lemon Tart with Blueberries.

convert Ingredients
2 sticks unsalted butter
2 1/2 cups unsifted all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla

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Directions
Make the dough
1. Place the dry ingredients into the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade and process with 2 or 3 short on/off bursts to blend.

2. Mix the egg and vanilla in a small bowl just to combine.

3. Cut the chilled, firm butter into 12 to 16 pieces and scatter them over the dry ingredients. Process the butter and dry ingredients until the mixture resembles bread crumbs (about 15 to 20 seconds).

4. Then, with processor running, pour the egg mixture down the feed tube in a steady stream and continue to process just until the ingredients come together.

5. Remove the dough from the bowl and place it on a clean, dry work surface. Then, with the heel of your hand, smear a small amount on your work surface by pushing it away from you. Repeat with small amounts of the remaining dough. When you’ve worked all the dough in this manner, give it a couple more strokes to bring it together into a smooth, homogeneous unit.

Chilling the dough
1. At this point, you may divide the dough into thirds (8 ounces each, a scant 1 cup). Flatten each third into a round disk 4 to 5 inches each and wrap each in plastic.

2. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until the dough is chilled and slightly firm. (Chilling reduces the strength of the gluten in the flour when the dough is rolled. It you become accustomed to the feel of making the dough, you can use a machine. Correct butter temperature is the key to making sweetened pastry by hand successfully. It shouldn’t be too firm (cold) or too soft (warm); the best description is cool and malleable. Kneading the dough by smearing it with the heel of your hand is called fraisage. It not only forms the dough into a smooth, cohesive unit, but it develops just enough structure so that the dough is less likely to tear or crack while being rolled and lifted. (Chilling reduces the strength of the gluten in the flour when the dough is rolled. It also makes it easier to roll without sticking.)

Rolling the dough
1. If the dough is cold and firm, remove it from the refrigerator to room temperature for 1 hour, or until it is still cool (room temperature, 70 degrees) and feels malleable, though it may crack at the edges slightly when pinched. These doughs may be pressed with the fingertips into pans, rather than rolled. However, rolling is faster, gives a more even thickness and requires less manipulation than pressing.

2. Dust the work surface lightly with flour. Position the rolling pin across the center of the disk and push the pin away from you in one stroke; use just enough pressure to extend the dough about 2 inches. Let up on the pressure as you near the edge. If any tearing or cracking occurs as you roll, press the edges together, sprinkle with a little flour and continue to roll. (If the dough cracks too much, it is too cold; if it is soft and sticky, it is too warm. Should it crumble into pieces as you begin to roll, repeat the kneading process; this will not overwork it.)

3. Gently lift the dough and rotate it a one-eighth turn in one direction. Repeat rolling procedure, working from the center out, always rotating dough a one-eighth turn in the same direction. Lightly flour the surface when necessary to prevent sticking. If the dough does stick, carefully slide a metal spatula under that portion, lift and dust with flour. Rub off any particles adhering to the rolling pin; they could
puncture the dough.

4. Continue rolling and rotating until the circle of dough is 1/8 inch thick and measures the diameter you need. The most important guideline for lining the pans is an 1/8-inch thickness; any thicker, and it will not serve as a container for the filling.

Fitting the dough in the pan
1. Lay the rolling pin across the upper third of the circle of dough. Lift the edge of that section on and fold it toward you, draping it over the pin. (The ends of the rolling pin will remain exposed.) Roll the pin toward you, wrapping the remaining dough loosely around the pin.

2. Lift the rolling pin, and suspend it 1 inch above the farthest edge of the tart pan. Allowing for a 1-inch overhang, unroll the dough toward you, easing it into the pan’s contours as you go. (Unrolling the dough toward you, rather than away from you, is best since you can see the pan and guide the dough precisely.) When the dough is completely unrolled, mold it into the pan’s crevices, pressing down slightly with fingertips until it fits snugly against the sides and bottom. If it tears, patching is easy: press the two torn edges together.

3. Rest the rolling pin on top of the pan, and roll across with enough pressure to cut off the overhang on all sides. (The overhang can be as much as 1 ounce for an 8-inch quiche pan, but that is preferable to not having enough dough to fill the pan evenly and efficiently.)

Baking the tart shell
1. At least 15 minutes before baking, position rack in lower third of oven; preheat oven to 350°F (175°C).

2. Bake in preheated oven for 17 to 22 minutes, or until the shell appears golden, looks done and contracts from the side. After the initial 5 to 7 minutes in the oven, looks done and contracts from the side. After the initial 5 to 7 minutes in the oven, the shell may blister; if so, prick the bottom in 3 or 4 places with a metal skewer, allowing the steam to escape so that the dough will fit snugly in the pan again. It is important to prick it before it bakes too long and sets its shape.

Cooling the tart shell
1. Remove from oven to cooling rack. After 5 minutes, place on top of a can smaller than the baking pan, releasing the pan’s metal rim from the baked crust.

2. Fill and serve the day it is baked.

Recipe © 1992 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.