Craig Claiborne and the Invention of Food Journalism


On June 11th, I had the pleasure and honor of being on a panel at The New School with some esteemed colleagues—John T. Edge, Anne Mendelson, Betty Fussell, and Molly O’Neill—to talk about one of the 20th century’s most important and controversal food journalists, Craig Claiborne.

Craig ClaiborneBecause I’ve been publishing Leite’s Culinaria for more than ten years, I was given the exciting and onerous task of discussing the future of food journalism, a topic about which if you ask 100 people you’ll get 125 responses. I was utterly terrified. To be in such company, who collectively have published enough about food to fill a library, was overwhelming enough. But then to grapple with a topic few people have a viable, concise answer to? (I had visions of suffering the same fate as many Elizabethan actors at the rotten-vegetable-filled hands of a displeased crowd.) After all, if people knew the future of journalism, they’d already be making money from it.

In my research I discovered that technology, with its Internet, mobile communications, computers, etc., is both an asset and liability to food writers. To tackle my topic, I chose to speak to leaders in the writing, publishing, and technology industries…aw, hell, it’d be so much easier, and you’d get so much more out of it, if you just watched the panel instead of listening to me blither on here.

A Sweet History: Portugal’s Pastéis de Tentúgal

Church in Tentúgal, Portugal

Look down to change the radio station while driving west on Route N111 in central Portugal, and it’s possible to buzz by the tiny, nearly empty village of Tentúgal. Composed of  small cluster of streets, Tentúgal (population 2,275) is suffering the same fate as many rural Portuguese towns. During the past half-century, it has hemorrhaged residents, as younger generations, too restless to spend their lives around the tree-dotted town square as their parents did, relocated to the cities of Lisbon, Porto, or Coimbra. One resident, though, returned, determined to revive Tentúgal’s wealthy gastronomic past—one pastry at a time.

Portuguese Pastries from TentúgalOlga Alexandre Gonçalves Cavaleiro, 36, is the owner of O Afonso, a regional pastry shop dedicated to preserving the pastél de Tentúgal—a finger-long, crispy log filled with doce de ovos, a cooked egg-yolk-and-sugar mixture. The ancient sweet was first created behind the now-crumbling walls of the town’s Convento do Nossa Senhora do Carmo in the 16th century.

Portugal has a rich tradition, both in the religious and caloric sense, when it comes to desserts. “Since everyone had chickens,” says Cavaleiro, “eggs were offered as a dízimo [tithe] to convents and monasteries throughout the country, and they had to do something with the yolks.” (Legend has it that the whites were used either to starch nuns’ wimples or to clarify wine.) The result is an astonishing array of egg-laden doce conventuais, such as the pastéis de Tentúgal.

“What makes pastéis de Tentúgal so interesting,” Cavaleiro adds, “is how they’re made, which hasn’t changed in almost 500 years.” An eight-pound lump of dough, made of nothing but flour and water, is plopped down in the middle of a white cotton-covered platform, in a white room, presided over by three white-clad women. Then an unpredictable dance ensues based upon humidity, temperature, and time of year. One woman grabs an edge of the dough and flops it out, making it slightly oblong. A second circles another clump, finds the right spot, and does the same. This pavane of pulling and flopping results in the dough being stretched to a diameter of up to 15 feet. It becomes so sheer, a newspaper can be read through it, which is often the test Cavaleiro uses to maintain quality. The women then wait for the precise moment in the drying process to cut the frittery sheets into fan shapes that will envelope the doce de ovos.

The pastries, though, are more than a local sweet. They’ve come to define not only the town, but its people, their ethics, and identity. These, too, Cavaleiro has worked tirelessly to uphold. To that end, she became the president of the Associação dos Pasteleiros de Tentúgal, a task force that, among other things, ensures that the eponymous pastries can be made only in Tentúgal. Cavaleiro and company have also just finished petitioning the Ministério da Agricultura in Lisbon to receive the coveted Indicação Geográfica Protegida, a governmental certification that guarantees the undeniable link between a region and its products. Once the IGP insignia adorns the boxes from the five shops allowed to make the pastéis, Cavaleiro hopes Tentúgal will once again be on the map. Literally.

Portugal’s Wine Regions Get a New Look

Wine Map of Portugal

Portugal’s wine regions got a facelift recently. Not the actual regions—those have been literally written in stone beginning in 1756 when the Upper Douro became the first wine region in the world to be demarcated, with distinct borders and strict regulations. You can still see the shist markers drawing invisible but financially crucial lines throughout the region. I saw my first stone pillar on the grounds of Quinta de Crasto, a wine estate perched high in the mountains, when I was given a tour of the property by Tomas Roquette, one of the scions of the family. He flew around hairpin turns at a hellion’s pace in a dented old Jeep with a passenger door that wouldn’t stay shut. The ride, and the subsequent wine needed to steady myself, was worth it, though. Roquette took me to a shell of a building at the top of the estate that the family is turning into a guest house for tourists. The view alone would be worth the steep nightly price. Read more »

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