Paprika is the most important ingredient in the Austro-Hungarian classic beef goulash. It should be sweet Hungarian paprika, not smoked Spanish paprika. Keep it in the freezer in a well-sealed container and it will stay fresh for several months. If it’s been sitting out for more than 6 months, discard it and get a new batch. Begin the beef goulash a couple of days ahead so you can marinate the meat and easily degrease the finished sauce.

convert Ingredients
3 pounds skirt steak or beef chuck or round, cut in 1 1/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 fat garlic cloves, halved, green shoots removed, and sliced
1 large or 2 medium onions, chopped
3 ounces thick-cut bacon, cut in 1/4-inch-wide strips
3/4 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 1/2 cups chopped, peeled, and seeded tomatoes (fresh or canned)
1/2 pound sweet red peppers (1 large or 2 medium), roasted, peeled, seeded, and sliced (retain any juices)
1 1/2 cups (one 12-ounce bottle) lager beer

Method
1. The beef goulash is best if you begin 2 days before you wish to serve it. To marinate the beef, place it in a large bowl and toss with the canola oil, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, 4 of the garlic cloves, and half the onion. Knead the mixture well so that the seasonings penetrate the meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. The next day, scrape the onions and garlic off the beef and set aside with the remaining onions and garlic. Heat a large, heavy casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the bacon. Cook until the bacon renders its fat, then remove it from the pan with a slotted spoon. Set aside in a bowl.

3. Add the beef to the pan in batches and brown on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl with the bacon (there will be a lot of juice in the pan; pour off the liquid from the pan between batches but retain with the meat.).

4. To make the goulash, add the remaining onions to the pan with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining garlic, caraway, and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste caramelizes slightly (it will turn a rusty color). Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until they have cooked down slightly. Add the roasted peppers and their juice and stir together for a few more minutes, then return the meat and bacon to the pan with any juices that have accumulated in the bowl. Add the beer, 1 teaspoon salt, and water if necessary. The beef should be almost submerged. Bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer over low heat for 3 hours, until the beef is fork-tender. From time to time, skim the fat from the top of the simmering stew. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

5. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef and vegetables from the liquid and place in a bowl. Pour the liquid into another bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight if serving the following day (if serving the same day, allow to rest for 1 hour and degrease, following the directions below). The next day, lift off the fat that has accumulated on top of the liquid and discard. Combine the beef and gravy in a pot, reheat gently, correct the seasonings, and serve the goulash with noodles, Spaetzle, rice, or parsleyed potatoes.

How to Degrease a Warm Broth
Allow the broth to rest for 15 minutes, or up to 1 hour if possible, so that the fat rises to the surface. Dip the bottom of a ladle into the center of the pot and rotate it around in a small circle to push the grease to the edges of the pot. Without tipping the bowl of the ladle into the liquid, push the ladle bowl straight down and push it toward the edge of the pot, then slowly press down until the top of the ladle bowl is just barely level to the top of the grease, so that the grease slips into the ladle. Continue, beginning in the center of the pot and pushing out to the sides, until you no longer see a greasy layer on the surface of the broth or gravy.

Recipe © 2009 Mark Peel. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

In France this beef roll dish is called alouettes sans têtes, meaning “doves without heads.” The beef slices are stuffed with pancetta, garlic, and herbs, rolled, and sautéed until brown on the outside. Then the paupiettes are simmered in a delicious tomato sauce until meltingly tender. The addition of citrusy orange zest, piquant wild capers, and sweet fragrant thyme to a finished dish is particular to some parts of Provence. When you serve these rich, radiant paupiettes directly from the clay pot, accompany them with a platter of buttered noodles or mashed potatoes.

Preferred clay pot:
~ A 12-inch Spanish cazuela, a straight-sided flameware skillet, or a French poêlon de terre
~ If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

convert Ingredients
8 slices boneless lean beef, cut ¼ inch thick from across rib roast, each roughly 7 by 4 inches (about 1 3/4 pounds total)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces pancetta, diced
1 tablespoon mashed garlic plus 4 garlic cloves, halved
1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped celery leaves
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 ounce dried cèpes or porcini, broken into small pieces
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 carrot, minced
1 cup dry white wine
Herb bouquet: 3 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, 2 fresh thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 1 celery rib stuck with 2 cloves, and 1 strip orange zest wrapped in cheesecloth
3 tablespoons tomato paste, canned or homemade
3 cups meat or poultry stock, heated
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon each chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and thyme, minced garlic, and grated orange zest for garnish

Method
1. Lay the slices of beef out on a work surface and pound gently to flatten slightly. Season with salt and pepper. In a mixing bowl, combine the pancetta, mashed garlic, parsley, celery, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Mix with your hands to blend well. Divide the stuffing evenly among the beef slices. Roll each slice up over the filling at the wider end, fold in the sides, roll up, and secure with white kitchen string or toothpicks.

2. Place the dried cèpes in a small bowl and cover with 1 cup hot water; let stand for 30 minutes to soften. Remove the cèpes from the soaking liquid, squeezing the mushrooms to release the liquid into the bowl. Reserve the liquid. Chop the cèpes.

3. Heat the olive oil in the cazuela set over medium-low heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the meat rolls and sauté slowly, turning, until browned all over, 20 minutes. Add the white wine, herb bouquet, garlic halves, tomato paste, cèpes, reserved mushroom-soaking liquid, and stock. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Cover with a sheet of parchment and a lid. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 2 hours, turning the beef rolls once after an hour. Transfer the beef rolls to a side dish and cover with foil. Strain the cooking juices, pressing down on all the vegetables and any bits of pancetta that may have fallen out. Let the beef rolls and sauce cool separately; then cover and refrigerate. (The recipe can be made to this point up to a day in advance.)

4. About 1 1/2 hours before serving, completely degrease the sauce. Cut away the strings from the beef rolls. Return the beef rolls and the sauce to the cazuela. Cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat for 1 hour, turning the beef rolls in the sauce from time to time. Stir in the vinegar and capers and simmer for a few minutes longer. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with the chopped parsley and thyme, garlic, and orange zest and serve at once.

Note: There is an art to pounding beef for paupiettes. Use a kitchen mallet and a combination swoop and tap, working from the center to the outer edge to achieve even thickness. Be sure not to pound too forcefully, or the beef slice will tear.

Recipe © 2009 Paula Wolfert. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Fettuccine al Sugo di Vitello Saporito

Fettuccine with veal sauce is a lovely recipe. Veal is quite mild and goes very well with green olives, which give it a little kick. I usually cook veal with butter, but olive oil is better suited to olives, so I make this savory veal sauce with olive oil but add a little butter at the end when I toss it with the fetticcine. Half a bouillon cube adds depth of flavor.

convert Ingredients
1/2 medium yellow onion
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound fresh tomatoes
3/4 pound ground veal
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 large beef bouillon cube
8 large Sicilian-style green olives
10 ounces dried egg fettuccine
1 tablespoon butter

Method
1. Fill a pot for the fettuccine with about 6 quarts of water, place over high heat, and bring to a boil.

2. Peel the onion and finely chop it. Put the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet, add the chopped onion, and place it over medium heat. Sauté until the onion turns a rich golden color, about 5 minutes.

3. While the onion is sautéing, peel and coarsely chop the tomatoes.

4. When the onion is ready, add the ground veal, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until the veal is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the white wine and let it bubble for about 1 minute to evaporate the alcohol. Add the tomatoes and bouillon cube, lower the heat to medium, and continue cooking until most of the liquid the tomatoes release has evaporated, 10 to 12 minutes.

5. While the tomatoes are cooking, slice the flesh of the olives away from the pits and coarsely chop it.

6. When the tomatoes are ready, add about 2 tablespoons salt to the boiling pasta water, add the fettuccine, and stir until all the strands are submerged. Cook until al dente.

7. Add the olives to the veal sauce and continue cooking over medium heat until the fettuccine is ready. When the fettuccine is done, drain well, toss with the veal sauce and the butter, and serve at once.

Recipe © 2009 Giuliano Hazan. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Each fall, when the first cold snap hits, I start looking for hearty dishes with big flavor like this homey bit of French peasant artistry—veal ragout—named with the French term ragouter, or “revive the taste.” The delicate veal in the ragout is complemented by the flavorful herbs and cipollini onions. Recipes like this are perfect for the slow cooker. The longer the ingredients “hang out” together, the better the flavor. Each ingredient has the time it needs to flavor and perfume the entire mix. I like to serve the veal ragout with a mix of seasonal squashes, which soak up the veal’s sauce without overpowering the dish.

The veal ragout can be made 3 days ahead of serving and can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator, or frozen for up to 1 month. To reheat gently, preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Place the ragout in a casserole and cover. Reheat in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes.

convert Ingredients
Olive oil
3 pounds veal shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Herbes de Provence
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
10 cipollini onions, peeled
4 medium shallots, cut in half
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, cored, and diced
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 cups chicken stock
2 tablespoons tomato paste
2 ounces (1/2 cup) dried porcini mushrooms
1 bay leaf
1 cup dry white wine such as chardonnay

Suggested garnishes
Chopped fresh sage leaves
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Method
1. Preheat a slow cooker to low. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Lightly coat the bottom of the pan with oil.

2. Season the veal with salt and pepper. Mix the Herbes de Provence and flour together in a medium bowl. Dredge the veal in the flour mixture. Brown the veal in the saute pan on all sides, in batches, adding more oil if necessary to prevent the veal from sticking, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the veal to the slow cooker insert.

3. Add the onions and shallots to the saute pan. Cook until they are quite brown and fragrant, about 15 minutes. Transfer the onions to the insert.

4. Add the carrots and fennel to the saute pan and cook until they are lightly colored, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes more, until the garlic is very fragrant and slightly softened. Transfer the carrots, fennel, and garlic to the insert.

5. Raise the heat under the saute pan, pour in the chicken stock, and bring to a simmer, scraping up with a wooden spatula any browned bits that have stuck to the pan. Transfer the liquid to the insert.

6. Add the tomato paste, dried mushrooms, bay leaf, and wine to the insert. Cover and cook the ragout on low for 6 hours or on high for 4 hours until the veal is tender.

7. Ladle the veal and the ragout braising liquid into a large bowl or deep platter. Sprinkle with the sage and parsley. Serve the veal ragout with your favorite squash or  potato dish.

Recipe © 2009 Laura Frankel. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

We prefer cooking flank steak to medium-rare or medium; rare flank steak tends to be overly chewy, while well-done flank steak tastes very tough. For a less spicy dish, remove some or all of the ribs and seeds from the jalapeño before chopping it for the marinade. In addition to the toppings suggested below, you can serve the tacos with thinly sliced radish or cucumber, or salsa.

convert Ingredients
For the marinade
1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
3 medium scallions, chopped coarse
3 medium garlic cloves, chopped coarse
1 medium jalapeño chile, stemmed and chopped coarse (see Note)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon juice from 1 lime

For the steak and tacos
One (1 1/2- to 1 3/4-pound) flank steak, trimmed and cut lengthwise (with the grain) into 4 equal pieces
Salt
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Twelve 6-inch corn tortillas, warmed
Fresh cilantro leaves, for serving
Minced white onion, for serving
1 lime, cut into wedges, for serving

Method
Make the marinade
1 Pulse the cilantro, scallions, garlic, jalapeño, and cumin together in the food processor until finely chopped, 10 to 12 pulses, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the oil and process until the mixture is smooth and resembles pesto, about 15 seconds, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Transfer 2 tablespoons of the herb paste to a medium bowl, stir in the lime juice, and reserve separately until serving time.

Make the steak and tacos
1. Using a dinner fork, poke each piece of steak 10 to 12 times on each side. Place the steak in a large baking dish, rub all sides of the steak pieces evenly with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and then coat with the cilantro paste. Wrap the steaks with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to 1 hour.

2. Scrape the cilantro paste off the steak and sprinkle all sides of the pieces evenly with the sugar and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Heat the oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Carefully place the steak in the skillet and cook until well browned on the first side, about 3 minutes. Flip the steak and sear until well browned on the second side, about 3 minutes.

3. Using tongs, stand each piece on a cut side and continue cook, turning as necessary to brown all sides well, to the desired doneness, 3 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer the steak to a carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes.

4. Slice each piece of steak against the grain into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Transfer the sliced steak to the bowl with the reserved cilantro-lime mixture and toss to coat. Season the steak with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon a small amount of the sliced steak into the center of each warm tortilla and serve immediately, passing the cilantro, onion, and lime wedges separately.

Recipe © 2009 The Editors of Cook’s Illustrated. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.