Lucinda Scala Quinn | Mad Hungry: Feeding Men and Boys | Artisan, 2009 |Serves 6

Different chili recipes present a wide variety of regional personalities and variations, not to mention favorites: Do you like it with or without beans? Chopped meat or ground meat? Whole chiles or mixed chile powder, or both? This recipe will appeal to just about everyone. Whether it’s the Super Bowl, game night, or just a plain Tuesday dinner, it can be dressed up and down for the occasion. Always serve it with some combination of toppings, such as grated cheese, sour cream, sliced avocados, chopped tomatoes, chopped onion or scallions, or minced cilantro. Garnish with salty tortilla chips or crumble in corn bread.—Lucinda Scala Quinn

convert Ingredients
5 dried red chiles (Mexican ancho, New Mexican Hatch, or Anaheim)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
3 garlic cloves, minced (1 tablespoon)
2 pounds ground beef
1 tablespoon coarse salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or pinch of cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup pickled jalapeños, chopped (optional)
One 28-ounce can tomatoes, broken up, with their juice
12 ounces beer
One 15-ounce can beans (pinto, kidney, black, or a combination), drained

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Method
1. In a dry large skillet over high heat, lightly toast both sides of the chiles for a few minutes. After roasting, remove from pan to slice open, then remove and discard the stem and seeds. Cover the chiles in boiling water and let soften for 5 minutes. In a blender or food processor, purée the chiles with enough soaking liquid to form a thick paste.

2. Heat the skillet again over medium-high heat, and then add the olive oil. Sauté the onion and garlic until translucent, about 3 minutes. Increase the heat and add the beef and 2 teaspoons of the salt. Brown the beef, stirring occasionally to pick up browned bits on the bottom of the pan as the moisture evaporates, about 15 minutes. If the meat is excessively fatty (your judgment call), spoon off some of the fat, but leave some for flavor.

3. Stir in the cumin and cook for 30 seconds. Add the chile paste, red pepper flakes, oregano, bay leaf, jalapeños, and the remaining teaspoon of salt. Stir to combine well.

4 .Add the tomatoes and beer and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the beans and cook for an additional 20 minutes. Add water, if needed, for desired consistency. Serve with preferred condiments (see headnote).

Recipe © 2009 Lucinda Scala Quinn. Photo © 2009 Mikkel Vang. All rights reserved.
© 2010 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

This winning combination is known in the classic French repertoire as tournedos Rossini. The story is that the composer Rossini, a devoted fan of truffles, asked a chef to prepare this dish. The chef balked, suggesting that it was ill-conceived. The maestro said that if the chef was offended, the maestro himself could prepare the dish quickly while the chef’s back was turned. The word tournedos thus supposedly comes from the French phrase tourner le dos, to turn one’s back. Prepare this when pouring a prodigious red wine, and you surely won’t be vexed.—Katherine Alford

convert Ingredients
For the sauce
2/3 cup Madeira
2 tablespoons minced shallot
1 thyme sprig
1/2 bay leaf
2 cups veal or beef stock
1 1/2 teaspoons arrowroot mixed with 1 1/2 teaspoons water (optional)
1 to 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1/2 to 1 ounce fresh or preserved black winter truffle

For the medallions
Four 4-ounce filet of beef (tenderloin) medallions, about 1 1/2 inches thick, at room temperature
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Four 1-ounce grade-A or -B duck foie gras medallions

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Method
Make the sauce
1. In a saucepan, combine the Madeira, shallot, thyme, and bay leaf. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook until the wine is reduced to a light syrup coating the shallots. (The wine may flame briefly.)

2. Pour the stock into the wine reduction and simmer until reduced by half. Skim off any impurities that rise to the surface. If the sauce is not thick enough to nap the meat, whisk the arrowroot mixture into the sauce and bring to a full boil to thicken. Lower heat and whisk in the butter. Season with the 3/4 teaspoon salt, the pepper, and vinegar. Slice the truffle paper-thin with a truffle slicer, mandoline, or very sharp knife and add to the sauce. Set aside and keep warm in a double boiler over hot water for up to 1 hour. (You may need to adjust the consistency with a bit of water if the sauce thickens.)

Make the medallions
1. Meanwhile, pat the beef medallions dry with paper towels and season one side of the meat with salt and pepper. Heat a heavy skillet over low heat. Add the oil to the pan, increase the heat to high, and place the meat, seasoned-side down, in the pan. Saute until the steaks are a rich burnished brown on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Season the remaining side with salt and pepper to taste, turn, reduce the heat slightly, and brown the other side, 3 to 4 minutes. Brown the sides of the medallions by standing them on their sides. Transfer the meat to a plate while you sear the foie gras.

2. Wipe out the skillet and heat it over high heat. Season the foie gras medallions with salt and pepper to taste. Add the medallions to the pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until a deep brown on the bottom. Drain off any excess fat. Turn the foie gras with a metal spatula and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, or until the foie gras softens but still has some resilience. Transfer to paper towels to drain.

3. To serve, remove any strings from the medallions and place the medallions on warmed plates or a platter. Top with the foie gras and nap with the sauce, making sure that a couple of slices of truffles rest on each serving of foie gras. Serve immediately.

Recipe © 2001 Katherine Alford. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

The One’s birthday extravaganza went off without a hitch. And I take back everything I said in my last post. The One overcame his Luddite ways and actually picked up the remote to fiddle with his new stereo, the crowds along Fifth Avenue were thinner than usual, the night wasn’t terribly cold, and the decorations were better than usual. (The ten-ton Norway spruce at Rockefeller Center was sparkling with predominantly green lights to symbolize its energy-saving feature: 30,000 LED bulbs, which were partially powered by solar panels atop of the Rock.)

The one thing I’m happy not to take back is our dinner at Marco Canora’s Hearth. It was a slam-dunk. (Holy cow, my first-ever sports metaphor.) When the hostess snaked us through the room and sat us at a four top, I was instantly plumped with self-importance. I was sure they knew who I was: David Leite, food writer. I expected the staff to bow and scrape in my exalted presence, but, instead, what to my wondering eyes did appear? A waiter who treated me (as well) as he did the other guests. No more, no less. My face began to set in that “Oh, no you din’t” expression—eyebrows arched, eyes half-lidded, mouth curled until bracketed by two deeply etched commas.

“I’m sure they’re secretly thrilled,” said The One, “and don’t want to make a fuss over you in public.” I knew it was a lie, but it was just the emotional grease I needed to slide me into the evening without pouting and to unfurl my face like a window shade.

After perusing the menu, I told the waiter (henceforward named “Michael,” because when I was a waiter, it seemed any time a customer forgot my name, he called me Michael) that I wanted to order only dishes that are in Marco’s cookbook, Salt to Taste.

“You pick for me,” I said. Off Michael went to confer with Marco.

“Okay, it’ll be grilled quail with farro, leeks, tomato, and a quail egg,” he said on his return, “followed by braised veal breast with sweetbreads, cauliflower, and Romanesco sauce and a side of gnocchi.”

Superb. For a first course, The One ordered grilled calamari with smoked chickpeas and frisée, and for an entrée, roasted venison (which he was craving and why we picked Hearth), quince, autumn vegetables, and venison sausage.

The quail was beautifully grilled, moist, and tender. The knife Michael slid into my place setting seemed almost a nod to tabletop protocol rather than to fulfill any real function. My fingers were tool enough for me. The meat had a slightly charred tang that didn’t overwhelm the quail. The One and I actually shared from each other’s plate (a habit of mine he absolutely hates—something to do with never having enough to eat when he was a kid). His squid, like my quail, was tender, and the chickpeas picked up the smokiness where the quail left off, but—again—not overpowering his plate.

(Confession: Somewhere in my meal were these amazing little gems of smoked lentils—I think, with the quail—but by then, the 2001 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape à la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père had its grenache grip on me.)

The hit of the evening for me were the braised veal breast and gnocchi. I could have stripped down and rubbed that little glistening tournedo of veal goodness all over my body. It was so silky and unctuous, so tender and rich with meaty flavor. Then there were the gnocchi. Now, I’ve had what I believe to be the best gnocchi ever while dining at Felidia, Lidia Bastianich’s Upper East Side restaurant. They were little puffs of air—what Cheetos secretly aspire to be. And since then, whenever I’ve seen them on a menu, I’ve ordered them, hoping to relive that gastronomic equivalent of a bosom-smoothing grandmother moment with Lidia. But, alas, I’ve had nothing but a string of belly bombs, potato bullets, and chewy corks. So I was delighted, and relieved, to discover Marco’s were a very, very close second to Lidia’s. And while eating them, a memory  bobbed up to the surface of my conscience: I had had these before, hadn’t I? Yes, yes. I vaguely remembered dining here with a magazine editor and eating these pillows of potato-y loveliness. (I think that night was muddied by several bottles of wine, too. Note to self: Read the 12 Steps.)

The One loved his medium-rare venison, but it was too gamey for me. No matter. I was content with my veal and gnocchi, and when The One asked to have a few, it was I who felt the need to wrap my arms around my plate and scream, “No, they’re mine! All mine!” But it was his birthday. I smiled and let him have his fill. Hey, I’m just that kind of guy.

Click for Marco’s gnocchi recipe.

Braised Veal Breast
by Marco Canora
from Salt to Taste
(Rodale, 2009)
Serves 6

There are two things that make all the difference in this recipe: the right liquid and the right pan. You want a broth or stock with a certain amount of gelatin. If you have veal stock, that’s great. If not, add 1/2 cup demiglace (reduced veal stock) to homemade or commercial chicken broth. The demiglace will provide the viscosity necessary to glaze the veal properly at the end of cooking. As far as the pan goes, you want one just big enough to hold the meat and aromatic vegetables snugly so the broth surrounds but doesn’t swamp the meat. This is true whenever you braise, but it’s particularly important here. Using a pan that’s too big will force you to use too much broth, which will in turn reduce the concentration of flavor and leave you with a weak-tasting, thin sauce. As long as the meat and vegetables fit with room to add broth to cover, the pan is fine.

Note: There are several advantages to making the veal a day in advance. 1) Breaking the cooking into two parts makes for short easy work just before serving. 2) The veal can be sliced neatly only when chilled. 3) It is easier to defat the chilled braising liquid—just spoon the fat off before you reduce the liquid. In a pinch, you can forgo these advantages and start and finish the veal in the same day. But in that case, I would advise you to skip slicing it and serve it whole—a dramatic if slightly more rustic way to go.

1/2 boneless veal breast (about 2 1/2 pounds)
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced, plus 1 head cut in half crosswise
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary, plus 3 sprigs tied together
About 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
1 cup dry white wine
About 2 quarts chicken broth
2 garlic cloves
2 rosemary sprigs

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

2. Lay the meat flat on a clean work surface. Mix the minced garlic, chopped rosemary, and 2 tablespoons oil in a small bowl. Spread evenly over the meat, then season liberally with salt and pepper. Roll the meat into a tight, thick roll, securing it every few inches with butcher’s string. Season the outside of the meat with salt and pepper.

3. Heat a deep pan just big enough to hold the meat over medium-high heat and add enough oil to generously coat the bottom, about 5 tablespoons. Add the veal and brown it on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove the veal from the pan and reserve.

4. Add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic head. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables brown and soften, about 5 minutes. Return the meat to the pan. Add the rosemary sprigs and wine. Let the wine boil and reduce until the pan is almost dry, then add enough broth to surround and just barely cover the meat. Bring to a boil on top of the stove, turn the veal over, and put the pan in the oven.

5. Braise the veal, turning it every 20 to 30 minutes, until it is tender and a knife can be easily inserted and removed (always check the thickest part closest to the center), about 2 hours.

6. Remove the pan from the oven and allow the veal to cool in the braising liquid. Take the meat out of the pan and put it into another container. Strain the braising liquid over the meat (discard the vegetables). Cover and refrigerate the veal in the braising liquid overnight.

7. To glaze the veal, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Remove the meat from the pan and cut it into slices about 1/2 inch thick. Skim the fat from the braising liquid. Put the liquid into a saucepan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Skim frequently and reduce until the liquid is slightly viscous (the amount of time this takes will depend on your broth).

8. Arrange the veal slices in a roasting pan big enough to hold them in a snug single layer. Pour enough of the reduced braising sauce around the veal so it comes about two-thirds of the way up the meat. Crush the garlic with the flat of a knife and add it along with the rosemary. Baste the veal with sauce and place it in the oven. Glaze the veal, basting it with the sauce every 5 minutes, until it is browned and heated through, about 40 minutes. Serve.

Recipe © 2009 Marco Canora. Photos © 2009 John Kernick. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Steak au poivre is a classic preparation for sauteed steak. Here Julia Child and Jacques Pépin update the steak by using a mixture of black, green, white and Jamaican peppercorns, which is really allspice. A saute of mushrooms and a full-bodied red wine are a fine match.—Julia Child and Jacques Pépin

convert Ingredients
1 thick-cut well-marbled strip steak, about 1 pound total weight, and 1 1/2 inches thick
2 tablespoons mixed whole peppercorns, including black, white, green, Szechuan and Jamaican (whole allspice)
Salt
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon butter

For the pan sauce
2 tablespoons minced shallots
2 tablespoons cognac (or bourbon or red wine)
1/2 cup flavorful dark stock
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature

Garnish
Chopped parsley
Watercress

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Method
1. Trim the steak of all the surrounding fat and cartilage. Cut the meat into 2 pieces and crush the peppercorns using the bottom of a heavy skillet.

2. Sprinkle salt to taste on the top and bottom of the steaks; then press each side into the cracked peppercorns, encrusting the steaks lightly or heavily, as you prefer.

3. Heat the oil and the butter in a heavy saute or frying pan over high heat. When the pan is quite hot, lay the peppered steaks in. Fry for about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, until the undersides are well seared. Turn the meat and cook the second side for about a minute. Press with a finger to test for the slight springiness that indicates rare. Cook to desired doneness and remove to a warm platter.

Making the pan sauce
1. Add the shallots to the pan and saute briefly, stirring with a spoon to scrape up the drippings. Lean away from the stove (averting your face) and pour the cognac into the pan; tilt the edge of the pan slightly, over the burner flame, to ignite the alcohol. The cognac will flame for a few seconds as the alcohol burns off; cook for a few moments more and then add the stock. Bring the liquid back to the boil, and cook about 1 minute to thicken the sauce, stirring occasionally. Taste and adjust seasoning. Finally, add the soft butter, swirling the pan until it melts and incorporates with the juices.

2. When blended, pour the poivre sauce over the steaks. Sprinkle liberally with chopped parsley and garnish each plate with sprigs of parsley or watercress.

Recipe © 1999 Julia Child & Jacques Pépin. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

We use beef short ribs for this braised dish, and it works out great. You could just as easily use brisket or blade, but I prefer the richness of the short ribs. Have your butcher cut between and along the length of the bone. The most important step here is the initial browning of the short ribs; don’t skimp or the final braise will not be as intensely flavored or colored.—Mario Batali

convert Ingredients
For the braised short ribs
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Four 16-ounce beef short ribs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 onion, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 cups Barolo or other full-bodied red wine
One 16-ounce can peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand, with their juices
1 cup beef stock
1/2 bunch of thyme
1/2 bunch of rosemary
1/2 bunch of oregano

For the pumpkin orzo
1/2 pound pumpkin or butternut squash, seeded and peeled
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 cup orzo
1 cup chicken stock

For the horseradish gremolata
Leaves from 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley
Zest of 2 lemons, cut into julienne strips
1/4 pound fresh horseradish, grated

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Method
Cook the short ribs
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).

2. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over high heat until smoking. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper and cook them over high heat until deep brown on all sides, about 15 minutes total.

3. Remove the short ribs to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, onion, celery, and garlic to the pan and cook over high heat until browned and softened, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the red wine, tomatoes and juices, beef stock, and herbs, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge browned bits.

4. Bring the mixture to a boil and return the short ribs to the pan. Cover with aluminum foil and place in the oven. Cook for 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender and literally falling off the bones. This can be done a day ahead.

Make the orzo
1. Cut the pumpkin or squash into 3 or 4 evenly sized pieces. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with the olive oil, and wrap in foil. Roast in the 375°F (190°C) oven for 30 to 45 minutes, or until very soft. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 5 minutes, then place the cooked squash in the bowl of a food processor. Add the honey, balsamic vinegar, and salt and pepper and pulse to form a relatively smooth purée. Set aside.

2. Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil and add 2 tablespoons of salt. Set up an ice bath nearby. Cook the orzo in the boiling water for 3 minutes, to blanch but not cook through. Drain the orzo and plunge it into the ice bath. Once cooled, drain it and lay it out on a baking sheet to dry.

3. Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a 12-inch saute pan. Add the orzo and squash purée and cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the chicken stock is fully absorbed by the orzo. Season with salt and pepper.

Make the gremolata
1. In a small bowl, combine the parsley, lemon zest, and horseradish and toss loosely by hand.

2. Divide the pumpkin orzo evenly among four warmed bowls. Place one short rib in each bowl, top with a little of the pan juices and a handful of the gremolata, and serve immediately.

Recipe © 2002 Mario Batali. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

This versatile basil pork recipe is a Thai favorite that often appears at breakfast or on the dinner table as part of a family-style meal. Ground pork is usually paired with the jagged leaves of holy basil (bai gkaprow). However, Thai sweet basil (bai horapa) is much easier to find in Asian markets in the United States and makes a worthy stand-in. If all else fails, substitute any basil or a mixture of basil and mint for a bright, refreshing flavor. Instead of pork, try ground chicken or turkey as well as fresh seafood: shrimp, scallops, mussels, and firm-flesh fish like salmon or halibut.—Patricia Tanumihardja

convert Ingredients
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 cloves garlic, minced (2 tablespoons)
5 Asian shallots or 1/2 small onion, cut into thin slices (1/3 cup)
1 1/2 pounds ground pork
6 red Thai chiles, cut into rounds
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 1/2 cups packed fresh holy basil or Thai basil leaves
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper (optional)

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Method
1. Preheat a large wok or skillet over high heat for 1 minute. Swirl in the oil and heat until it becomes runny and starts to shimmer. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the garlic and shallots and cook until the garlic is light golden and fragrant, 15 to 30 seconds.

2. Raise the heat to high and stir in the pork, breaking up clumps with the edge of your spatula. Stir and cook until the meat has just lost its blush, 1 to 2 minutes.

3. Reduce the heat to medium and throw in the chiles. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, and sugar and stir to coat the meat evenly. Stir in the basil and cook until the basil is wilted and the pork is cooked through, another 30 seconds to 1 minute.

4. Transfer to a serving dish and sprinkle with pepper. Serve hot with freshly steamed rice.

Recipe © 2009 Patricia Tanumihardja. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Paprika is the most important ingredient in the Austro-Hungarian classic beef goulash. It should be sweet Hungarian paprika, not smoked Spanish paprika. Keep it in the freezer in a well-sealed container and it will stay fresh for several months. If it’s been sitting out for more than 6 months, discard it and get a new batch. Begin the beef goulash a couple of days ahead so you can marinate the meat and easily degrease the finished sauce.—Mark Peel

convert Ingredients
3 pounds skirt steak or beef chuck or round, cut in 1 1/2-inch pieces
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 fat garlic cloves, halved, green shoots removed, and sliced
1 large or 2 medium onions, chopped
3 ounces thick-cut bacon, cut in 1/4-inch-wide strips
3/4 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 1/2 cups chopped, peeled, and seeded tomatoes (fresh or canned)
1/2 pound sweet red peppers (1 large or 2 medium), roasted, peeled, seeded, and sliced (retain any juices)
1 1/2 cups (one 12-ounce bottle) lager beer

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Method
1. The beef goulash is best if you begin 2 days before you wish to serve it. To marinate the beef, place it in a large bowl and toss with the canola oil, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, 4 of the garlic cloves, and half the onion. Knead the mixture well so that the seasonings penetrate the meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. The next day, scrape the onions and garlic off the beef and set aside with the remaining onions and garlic. Heat a large, heavy casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add the bacon. Cook until the bacon renders its fat, then remove it from the pan with a slotted spoon. Set aside in a bowl.

3. Add the beef to the pan in batches and brown on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl with the bacon (there will be a lot of juice in the pan; pour off the liquid from the pan between batches but retain with the meat.).

4. To make the goulash, add the remaining onions to the pan with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the onions soften, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining garlic, caraway, and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste caramelizes slightly (it will turn a rusty color). Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until they have cooked down slightly. Add the roasted peppers and their juice and stir together for a few more minutes, then return the meat and bacon to the pan with any juices that have accumulated in the bowl. Add the beer, 1 teaspoon salt, and water if necessary. The beef should be almost submerged. Bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer over low heat for 3 hours, until the beef is fork-tender. From time to time, skim the fat from the top of the simmering stew. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

5. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beef and vegetables from the liquid and place in a bowl. Pour the liquid into another bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight if serving the following day (if serving the same day, allow to rest for 1 hour and degrease, following the directions below). The next day, lift off the fat that has accumulated on top of the liquid and discard. Combine the beef and gravy in a pot, reheat gently, correct the seasonings, and serve the goulash with noodles, Spaetzle, rice, or parsleyed potatoes.

How to Degrease a Warm Broth
Allow the broth to rest for 15 minutes, or up to 1 hour if possible, so that the fat rises to the surface. Dip the bottom of a ladle into the center of the pot and rotate it around in a small circle to push the grease to the edges of the pot. Without tipping the bowl of the ladle into the liquid, push the ladle bowl straight down and push it toward the edge of the pot, then slowly press down until the top of the ladle bowl is just barely level to the top of the grease, so that the grease slips into the ladle. Continue, beginning in the center of the pot and pushing out to the sides, until you no longer see a greasy layer on the surface of the broth or gravy.

Recipe © 2009 Mark Peel. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

In France this beef roll dish is called alouettes sans têtes, meaning “doves without heads.” The beef slices are stuffed with pancetta, garlic, and herbs, rolled, and sauteed until brown on the outside. Then the paupiettes are simmered in a delicious tomato sauce until meltingly tender. The addition of citrusy orange zest, piquant wild capers, and sweet fragrant thyme to a finished dish is particular to some parts of Provence. When you serve these rich, radiant paupiettes directly from the clay pot, accompany them with a platter of buttered noodles or mashed potatoes.—Paula Wolfert.

Preferred clay pot:
~ A 12-inch Spanish cazuela, a straight-sided flameware skillet, or a French poêlon de terre
~ If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

convert Ingredients
8 slices boneless lean beef, cut ¼ inch thick from across rib roast, each roughly 7 by 4 inches (about 1 3/4 pounds total)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces pancetta, diced
1 tablespoon mashed garlic plus 4 garlic cloves, halved
1/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped celery leaves
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 ounce dried cèpes or porcini, broken into small pieces
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 carrot, minced
1 cup dry white wine
Herb bouquet: 3 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs, 2 fresh thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 1 celery rib stuck with 2 cloves, and 1 strip orange zest wrapped in cheesecloth
3 tablespoons tomato paste, canned or homemade
3 cups meat or poultry stock, heated
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon each chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and thyme, minced garlic, and grated orange zest for garnish

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Method
1. Lay the slices of beef out on a work surface and pound gently to flatten slightly. Season with salt and pepper. In a mixing bowl, combine the pancetta, mashed garlic, parsley, celery, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Mix with your hands to blend well. Divide the stuffing evenly among the beef slices. Roll each slice up over the filling at the wider end, fold in the sides, roll up, and secure with white kitchen string or toothpicks.

2. Place the dried cèpes in a small bowl and cover with 1 cup hot water; let stand for 30 minutes to soften. Remove the cèpes from the soaking liquid, squeezing the mushrooms to release the liquid into the bowl. Reserve the liquid. Chop the cèpes.

3. Heat the olive oil in the cazuela set over medium-low heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook until soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the meat rolls and saute slowly, turning, until browned all over, 20 minutes. Add the white wine, herb bouquet, garlic halves, tomato paste, cèpes, reserved mushroom-soaking liquid, and stock. Raise the heat to medium and bring to a simmer. Cover with a sheet of parchment and a lid. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for about 2 hours, turning the beef rolls once after an hour. Transfer the beef rolls to a side dish and cover with foil. Strain the cooking juices, pressing down on all the vegetables and any bits of pancetta that may have fallen out. Let the beef rolls and sauce cool separately; then cover and refrigerate. (The recipe can be made to this point up to a day in advance.)

4. About 1 1/2 hours before serving, completely degrease the sauce. Cut away the strings from the beef rolls. Return the beef rolls and the sauce to the cazuela. Cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat for 1 hour, turning the beef rolls in the sauce from time to time. Stir in the vinegar and capers and simmer for a few minutes longer. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with the chopped parsley and thyme, garlic, and orange zest and serve at once.

Note: There is an art to pounding beef for paupiettes. Use a kitchen mallet and a combination swoop and tap, working from the center to the outer edge to achieve even thickness. Be sure not to pound too forcefully, or the beef slice will tear.

Recipe © 2009 Paula Wolfert. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.