Leite's Culinaria » breads

Warm Sourdough Bread Salad with Chicken and Pine Nuts

Julie Dreyfoos — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 03:13:42 +0000

Sara Foster with Carolynn Carreño | Sara Foster’s Casual Cooking | Clarkson Potter, 2007 | Serves 2 to 4

Bread salad is a traditional Italian way to make use of a day-old chunk of bread. When I added shredded cooked chicken and tossed it with a heap of greens, it became a well-balanced meal. Golden raisins and pine nuts are a really nice combination, especially if you like a touch of something sweet in your savory dishes.—Sara Foster

convert Ingredients
For the vinaigrette
1 lemon, halved
2 garlic cloves, skin on
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the salad
4 cups 1-inch chunks of crusty, rustic-style sourdough bread
3 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt
4 cups shredded cooked chicken
2 tablespoons golden raisins
2 tablespoons pine nuts, lightly toasted
2 garlic cloves, smashed and roughly chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 cups loosely packed arugula, watercress leaves, or mixed baby greens, washed and drained
2 scallions, thinly sliced (white and green parts)

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Method
Start the vinaigrette
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (232°C). Place the lemon, cut side down, and the whole garlic cloves in an ovenproof dish and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Roast the lemon and garlic until they’re soft and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven (but keep the oven on) and set aside until they’re cool enough to handle.

Make the salad
1. Increase the oven temperature to 475°F (245°C).

2. Toss the bread chunks with the olive oil on a baking sheet and season with salt. Scatter the chunks in a single layer and toast until the bread is golden brown and the edges are crispy, 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.

3. Juice the lemon into a small bowl. Peel the garlic cloves, add to the bowl with the lemon juice, and smash them with a fork. Add the vinegar and gradually whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Stir in the parsley and season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Add the chicken, raisins, pine nuts, and garlic to the bread and combine. Drizzle with half of the vinaigrette, season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss gently to combine.

5. Spread the salad on a rimmed baking sheet and place it in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to warm it slightly.

6. Remove the salad from the oven and return it to the bowl you tossed it in. Add the arugula and scallions, and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette. Toss gently to combine, season with additional salt and pepper if desired, and serve warm.

Brazilian Cheese Rolls

David Leite — Thu, 25 Feb 2010 21:21:49 +0000

Leticia Moreinos Schwartz | The Brazilian Kitchen | Kyle Books, 2010 | Makes about 30 rolls

A soft, chewy bread roll infused with cheese flavor, pão de queijo is Brazil’s favorite savory snack, and an excellent recipe to add to your repertoire. Try your best to use both types of manioc starches (see Note below) called for in the recipe. The combination of the two is what gives the cheese bread its incredible, gooey, chewy texture. The recipe will not work if you use only sour manioc starch. A couple of my reliable online sources are ipanemagirl.net and amigofoods.com.

You can prepare the recipe ahead of time and freeze the little rolls of dough, unbaked, for up to 3 months. Just pop them in the oven directly from the freezer, and in 12 to 15 minutes you’ll have deliciously cheesy treats!—Leticia Moreinos Schwartz

convert Ingredients
2 cups finely grated fresh Parmesan (or Pecorino Romano)
2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks
1 1/4 cups sour manioc starch (povilho azedo; see sources in headnote)
3/4 cup manioc starch or sweet manioc starch (povilho doce; see sources in headnote)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of ground nutmeg
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of black pepper

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Method
1. Place the Parmesan in the bowl of a food processor. Add the eggs and yolks and blend until you have a smooth paste, about 1 minute.

2. Place the two types of manioc starch and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.

3. Place the milk, water, and oil in a small saucepan, and bring to a boil. Immediately pour the milk mixture into the starch mixture, all at once, and turn the machine on at low speed. Mix until the dough is smooth and the starch is completely incorporated, about 2 minutes.

4. Pause the machine and add the cheese-egg paste, scraping it directly into the manioc starch mixture. Add the nutmeg, cayenne, and black pepper, and mix the dough at low speed until it turns a pale yellow, about 10 minutes. You are trying to develop the structure of the dough by kneading it slowly. The dough should feel a bit sticky and moist.

5. Transfer the dough to a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.

6. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

7. Lightly coat your hands with olive oil (or flour them with manioc starch), pinch off walnut-size pieces of dough, and roll them between your palms. Alternately, you can use an ice-cream scooper to make 1-inch balls. Place them on the parchment, leaving 1 1/2 to 2 inches between the rolls.

8. Bake the cheese rolls in the oven until they puff up and are lightly golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. To ensure even cooking, rotate the pan once during baking time.

9. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and place the rolls in a basket lined with a napkin. Serve immediately, while they are still at their warmest and chewiest.

Note: According to Leticia Moreinos Schwartz, “When it comes to shopping for manioc starch, it’s extremely confusing.” She isn’t kidding. Here, she explains what you need to know when sourcing this traditional—and essential—Brazilian ingredient.

Sour manioc starch (poviho azedo) and manioc starch (also known as sweet manioc starch or poviho doce) are both extracted from yucca. The difference is that sour manioc starch undergoes a natural fermentation process. As a result, manioc starch (the sweet one) has a much finer consistency and more delicate texture than sour manioc starch. You can’t substitute one for the other, as they bring different flavors and textures to baked goods. The real confusion begins when different American brands call these products different names.

A few useful terms and translations from Leticia:

sour manioc starch = povilho azedo
No American brand makes sour manioc starch, which is the most important ingredient in this recipe for pão de queijo. But it can be ordered online.

manioc starch = sweet manioc starch = povilho doce
Goya calls it tapioca starch but Bob’s Red Mill calls it tapioca flour If you use only povilho doce, whether it is from Goya, Bob Red Mill, or even the Brazilian brand, the recipe for pão de queijo won’t work.

manioc flour = farinha de mandioca
This is a completely different type of flour, although it, too, is extracted from the yucca. Think of it as bread crumbs. This is used to make farofa. Although they sound similar, don’t mistake manioc flour for manioc starch.

In terms of Brazilian brands for manioc starch, Gloriasul is Leticia’s favorite, which can be found at ipanemagirl.net. But she cautions that if ordering Amafil’s sour manioc starch from the site please note it’s incorrectly labeled as “sweet manioc starch.” If you look at the photo, the package says Povilho Azedo (sour manioc starch).

Cheddar-Chive Gougères

Linda Avery — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 06:05:27 +0000

Tori Ritchie | Party Appetizers: Small Bites, Big Flavor | Chronicle Books, 2004 | Makes 40 to 50 gougères

Making pâte á choux was one of the first things I learned in cooking school, and I’ve had the pastry formula rattling around in my head ever since. When flavored with cheese and baked, it puffs into addictive gougère. The French tend to make theirs with Gruyère, I use Cheddar, and either way they beg to be eaten with Pinot Noir. For parties. I make one-bite gougères and people tend to eat 3 or 4. You can also split these and fill them with chicken, ham, or lobster salad for substantial hors d’oeuvres.—Tori Ritchie

convert Ingredients
1 cup water
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Put the water, butter, and salt in a medium, heavy saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Cook, swirling the pan a few times until the butter melts; once it has melted, increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Turn off the heat and dump in the flour. Beat the mixture with a wooden spoon until it starts to pull away from the sides of the pan.

3. Take the pan off the stove, set it on a counter or hot pad, and let it cool, without stirring, for 5 minutes.

4. Now, work in the eggs, 1 at a time, beating the mixture well with the spoon after each addition (you have to put some muscle into it to incorporate the eggs fully). With each addition, the dough should look glossy and slick at first, then stick to the sides of the pan before you add the next egg. After beating in the last egg, beat in the dry mustard and cayenne, then the cheese and chives.

5. Scoop up a heaping teaspoon of dough and with another spoon, push it off onto the paper-lined baking sheet (it should form a mound about 1 inch in diameter). Continue with the remaining dough, leaving an inch of space between the gougères (work in batches as necessary, the dough can stand, covered with buttered waxed paper or parchment, for up to 1/2 hour).

6. Bake until the gougères are puffy and light golden, about 25 minutes, switching pan positions halfway through. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before serving, or turn off oven and let gougères remain in oven, with door ajar, for up to 1 hour.

Cheddar Corn Bread

David Leite — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 04:27:00 +0000

Lucinda Scala Quinn | Mad Hungry: Feeding Men and Boys | Artisan, 2009 |Serves 6 to 8

We like this served with chili or even ribs. The addition of whole corn kernels makes the texture a little more interesting, but you can leave them out with no problem. Ditto the pickled jalapeños; and you can even switch the cheese for a different one. If you don’t have a 10-inch cast-iron skillet, use an 8-inch square baking pan and adjust the baking time.—Lucinda Scala Quinn

convert Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup stone-ground yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon coarse salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 1/2 cups milk
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 cup grated cheddar cheese
1/2 cup corn kernels (frozen, fresh, or left over from a cooked cob)
2 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeños (optional)

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, salt, and cayenne. Blend in the milk, eggs, and butter. Fold in the cheese, corn, and the jalapeños, if using.

3. Scoop into a well-seasoned 10-inch cast-iron skillet or a buttered 8-inch square baking pan and smooth over the top. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the top is golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.

Note: Do not overbake or the corn bread will be dry. Cut into wedges or squares and serve hot.

Bagels

David Leite — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 02:45:08 +0000

Peter Reinhart | Artisan Breads Every Day | Ten Speed Press, 2009 | Makes 6 to 8 bagels

Let’s clear something up right away: New York City isn’t the only place in the world to get decent, authentic bagels. The truth is, you can make bagels that are just as good at home, no matter where you live. They’re one of the simplest breads to make, requiring only flour, water, salt, yeast, and malt—and one secret ingredient: time (in the form of long, slow, cold fermentation). Any decent bagel shop knows this and uses an overnight method to stretch out the fermentation process, releasing all sorts of subtle flavors trapped in the flour. While bagel shops often use a type of high-protein flour not available to home cooks to achieve that distinctively chewy texture, regular, unbleached bread flour can also do the trick. The real key is to use a much lower percentage of water than is used for baguettes and other European hearth breads, producing a stiff dough that can stand up to a dunking in boiling water before going into the oven. More than any ingredient or other aspect of the method, this boiling step is what defines the uniqueness of the bagel.

That said, bagels do usually feature one other distinctive ingredient: barley malt. While this may seem like an exotic, hard-to-find product, it’s actually commonly available at most supermarkets, usually labeled “barley malt syrup.” If you can’t find it, simply substitute an equal amount of honey. Your bagels might not have that malty flavor, but they’ll still be better than almost any bagel you can buy.—Peter Reinhart

One final note: If you like bagels but don’t want to set up the boiling operation for just six of them, feel free to double the size of the batch and bake enough to freeze for future use.

convert Ingredients
For the dough
1 tablespoon (0.75 oz / 21 g) barley malt syrup, honey, or rice syrup, or 1 teaspoon (0.25 oz / 7 g) diastatic malt powder
1 teaspoon (0.11 oz / 3 g) instant yeast
1 1/2 teaspoons (0.37 oz / 10.5 g) salt, or 2 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (9 oz / 255 g) lukewarm water (about 95°F or 35°C)
3 1/2 cups (16 oz / 454 g) unbleached bread flour

For the poaching liquid
2 to 3 quarts (64 to 96 oz / 181 to 272 g) water
1 1/2 tablespoons (1 oz / 28.5 g) barley malt syrup or honey (optional)
1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) baking soda
1 teaspoon (0.25 oz / 7 g) salt, or 11/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

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Method
Day one: make the dough
1. Stir the malt syrup, yeast, and salt into the lukewarm water. Place the flour into a mixing bowl and pour in the malt syrup mixture. If using a mixer, use the dough hook and mix on the lowest speed for 3 minutes. If mixing by hand, use a large, sturdy spoon and stir for about 3 minutes, until well blended. The dough should form a stiff, coarse ball, and the flour should be fully hydrated; if it isn’t, stir in a little more water. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.

2. Resume mixing with the dough hook on the lowest speed for another 3 minutes or transfer to a very lightly floured work surface and knead by hand for about 3 minutes to smooth out the dough and develop the gluten. The dough should be stiff yet supple, with a satiny, barely tacky feel. If the dough seems too soft or overly tacky, mix or knead in a little more flour.

3. Place the dough in a clean, lightly oiled bowl, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise at room temperature for 1 hour.

Day one: shape the bagels
1. When you’re ready to shape the bagels, prepare a sheet pan by lining it with parchment paper or a silicone mat, then misting it with spray oil or lightly coating it with oil. Divide the dough into 6 to 8 equal pieces. (A typical bagel is about 4 ounces or 113 grams before baking, but you can make them smaller. If you make more than 6 bagels, you may need to prepare 2 sheet pans.)

2. Form each piece into a loose ball by rolling it on a clean, dry work surface with a cupped hand. (Don’t use any flour on the work surface. If the dough slides around and won’t ball up, wipe the surface with a damp paper towel and try again; the slight bit of moisture will provide enough traction for the dough to form into a ball.)

3. There are two methods to shape the balls into bagels.

The first method is to poke a hole through the center of the ball to create a donut shape. Holding the dough with both thumbs in the hole, rotate the dough with your hands, gradually stretching it to create a hole about 2 inches in diameter.
The second method, preferred by professional bagel makers, is to use both hands (and a fair amount of pressure) to roll the ball into a rope about 8 inches long on a clean, dry work surface. (Again, wipe the surface with a damp towel, if necessary, to create sufficient friction on the work surface.) Taper the rope slightly at each end and moisten the last inch or so of the ends. Place one end of the dough in the palm of your hand and wrap the rope around your hand to complete the circle, going between your thumb and forefinger and then all the way around. The ends should overlap by about 2 inches. Squeeze the overlapping ends together by closing your hand, then press the seam into the work surface, rolling it back and forth a few times to seal. Remove the dough from your hand, squeezing it to even out the thickness if need be and creating a hole of about 2 inches in diameter.

4. Place each shaped bagel on the prepared sheet pan, then mist with spray oil or brush with a light coating of oil. Cover the entire pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for up to 2 days. (You can also proof the full piece of dough in the oiled bowl overnight and then shape the bagels on baking day, 60 to 90 minutes before boiling and baking them, or as soon as they pass the float test.)

Day two (or even three): test the bagels
1. Remove the bagels from the refrigerator 60 to 90 minutes before you plan to bake them, and if you plan to top them with dried onion or garlic, rehydrate those ingredients (see the variations below). Immediately check whether the bagels are ready for baking using the “float test”: Place one of the bagels in a small bowl of cold water. If it sinks and doesn’t float back to the surface, shake it off, return it to the pan, and wait for another 15 to 20 minutes, then test it again. When one bagel passes the float test, meaning they rise to the surface, they’re all ready to be boiled. If they pass the float test before you are ready to boil and bake them, return them to the refrigerator so they don’t overproof. About 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) and gather and prepare your garnishes (seeds, onions, garlic, and so on).

Day two (or even three): poaching the bagels
1. Fill a pot with 2 to 3 quarts (64 to 96 oz / 181 to 272 g) of water, making sure the water is at least 4 inches deep. Cover, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain at a simmer. Stir in the malt syrup, baking soda, and salt.

2. Gently lower each bagel into the simmering poaching liquid, adding as many as will comfortably fit in the pot. They should all float to the surface within 15 seconds. After 1 minute, use a slotted spoon to turn each bagel over. Poach for another 30 to 60 seconds, then use the slotted spoon to transfer it back to the pan, domed side up. (It’s important that the parchment paper be lightly oiled, or the paper will glue itself to the dough as the bagels bake.) Sprinkle on a generous amount of whatever toppings you like as soon as the bagels come out of the water (except cinnamon sugar; see the variation below).

3. Transfer the pan of bagels to the oven, then lower the oven heat to 450°F (232°C).

4. Bake for 8 minutes, then rotate the pan and check the underside of the bagels. If they’re getting too dark, place another pan under the baking sheet. (Doubling the pan will insulate the first baking sheet.) Bake for another 8 to 12 minutes, until the bagels are a golden brown.

5. Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing or serving.

Variations
~ You can replace any amount of the bread flour with an equal amount of whole grain flour (by weight), such as wheat or rye. If you do so, increase the water in the dough by 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) for every 2 ounces (56.5 g) of whole grain flour you substitute.

~ Top your bagels with any combination of the following garnishes: poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coarse salt, or rehydrated dried onions or garlic. (Soak dried onions or garlic in water to cover for at least 1 hour before applying.) The toppings will stick even better if you first brush the top of each bagel with an egg white wash made by whisking 1 egg white with 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) of water. If using coarse salt as a garnish, remember that a little goes a long way.

~ For raisin bagels, mix in 1 1/3 cups (8 oz / 227 g) of raisins during the final 2 minutes of mixing and, if you like cinnamon, stir 1/2 teaspoon (0.14 oz / 4 g) of ground cinnamon into the flour before you start mixing. When the bagels come out of the oven, brush the tops with melted butter and dip the top into a bed of cinnamon sugar to give it a very tasty cinnamon crust. You can make cinnamon sugar by whisking 2 tablespoons (1.6 oz / 44 g) of ground cinnamon into 1/2 cup (4 oz / 113 g) of granulated sugar.

Burgundian Honey Spice Bread

Linda Avery — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 06:00:49 +0000

Virginia Willis | Bon Appétit, Y’All | Ten Speed Press, 2008 | Makes two 9-by-5-3-inch loaves

The wealthy and powerful Dukes of Burgundy controlled the spice trade in the Middle Ages. The windows of the shops and bakeries of Dijon are filed with tightly wrapped loaves of pain d’épice, the traditional honey spice bread of the region. It’s similar to American-style gingerbread only in that they both contain a variety of spices. The texture of the French bread, however, is denser, as it is traditionally baked at a low temperature for several hours, and the spice combination is slightly different. I’ve adapted this version to cook in less time at a higher temperature. The texture is not as traditional, but the flavor is still incredible. Ground fennel seed is not widely available; it can be ordered, or simply grind your own in a spice grinder.—Virginia Willis

While at La Varenne, we served this bread for breakfast for special guests. It’s also wonderful with a hot cup of tea on a chilly fall afternoon.

convert Ingredients
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the loaf pans
1 1/4 cups milk
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 1/2 cups honey (preferably tupelo, orange blossom, or sweet clover)
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground fennel seed
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons very finely chopped candied ginger
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
2 teaspoons baking soda

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°). Brush two 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pans with butter. Cut four strips of parchment: two 15 x 5 inches, and two 14 x 8 inches. Lay the two long pieces of parchment the length of the buttered pan and press to adhere. Brush the parchment with butter. Lay the two wider pieces crosswise on top. Brush the parchment with butter. Everything must be very well buttered or the bread will stick.

2. Heat the milk, brown sugar, and honey in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside until slightly cooled.

3. To make the batter, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the flour, ground fennel, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and salt. In two batches, add the honey mixture and candied ginger. Scrape down the sides as needed, and blend on low speed until just combined.

4. In a small liquid measuring cup, combine the egg, egg yolk, and baking soda. Stir to combine. Add the egg mixture to the batter and beat until well blended.

5. To bake the loaves, pour the batter into the prepared loaf pans, dividing it evenly and not filling the pans more than halfway. Bake, rotating once, until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Cover with aluminum foil if the bread starts to become too dark.

6. Remove the loaves to a rack to cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Turn them out of the pans and immediately remove the parchment paper. Store very tightly wrapped in plastic wrap for up to 1 week.

Cranberry Pistachio Panettone

Julie Dreyfoos — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 05:10:38 +0000

by Suzanne Dunaway
from Baking from the Heart
by Michael J. Rosen
(Broadway Books, 2004)
Makes 4 small or 2 large loaves

Originating in Milan, Italy, this cake is traditionally served at Christmas, but its popularity is so widespread that it can be found in bakery and pastry shops almost year round.

You can make two larger loaves or four smaller loaves by baking them in either 2-pound or 1-pound coffee cans. Or for a festive treat, bake them in individual paper molds, which can be found at you local bakery supply store. —Suzanne Dunaway

convert Ingredients
For the starter
1 cup warm milk
2 1/2 tablespoons active dry yeast
1 3/4 cups unbleached flour
1 teaspoon sugar

For the dough
1 cup raw pistachios
1 teaspoon salt, plus a few pinches
4 1/2 cups unbleached flour, plus more for kneading and shaping the dough
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest
1/2 cup candied orange and lemon rind, optional
1 cup dried cranberries
2 tablespoons dark rum
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the pans
1 cup sugar
4 large eggs
2 large egg yolks (whites reserved for glaze)

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Method
Make the starter
1. In a small glass bowl, combine the warm milk, yeast, flour, and sugar and stir to blend. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes.

Make the panettone dough
1. Place the pistachios on a baking sheet and spray them with water, sprinkle with a pinch or two of salt, and toast for 10 minutes, watching to make sure they do not burn. Cool completely and chop coarsely.

2. In a bowl, combine the 1 teaspoon salt, the flour, lemon and orange zests, candied orange and lemon peel, if using, cranberries, pistachios, rum, and vanilla.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed for 2 minutes or until fluffy. Add the eggs and yolks and beat well. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture, mixing just until combined. Gradually add the starter and continue to beat on low speed until all ingredients are incorporated. The dough should not be sticky or too firm. It should look buttery and a little ragged.

4. Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and knead for 1 to 2 minutes, pushing the dough away from you with the heels of your hands, and then folding it back over on itself. The dough will be smooth and satiny.

5. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place for about 2 hours, or until doubled in size. Gently turn out the dough onto a work surface and divide it into 4 equal pieces, if making smaller loaves, or into 2 pieces if making larger loaves; keep as much air in the dough as possible. Let the pieces rest, covered with a clean dish towel, for 10 minutes.

6. For the smaller panettone, butter four 1-pound coffee cans or other deep molds that are 4 to 5 inches wide. Use 2-pound coffee cans to make two large panettone. Shape each piece into a smooth ball and place the dough in the mold. It should fill half the mold.

7. Beat the reserved egg whites and brush the tops of the loaves. Cover and let the loaves rise for 1 hour, or until just slightly less than doubled. (The dough may be active and rise quickly, so you may not need the full hour.)

8. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

9. Uncover the panettone, place the molds on the middle rack of the oven, and reduce the heat to 350°F (175°C). Bake for 30 to 35 minutes for the smaller molds and up to 45 minutes for the larger molds. (If, after 20 minutes of baking, the top of the panettone is taking on too much color, cover loosely with a piece of aluminum foil.) The bread is done when a wooden skewer inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Cool for 15 minutes, then carefully remove the loaves from the cans and place the panettone on wire racks to cool completely. Panettone will keep fresh for up to a week in a plastic bag; freeze them for up to 6 months.

Hazelnut and Fresh Herb Popovers

Linda Avery — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 06:00:37 +0000

by Diane Morgan
from The New Thanksgiving Table
(Chronicle Books, 2009)
Makes 12 popovers

You’re probably reading this recipe and thinking—how could I possibly pull off popovers at Thanksgiving? The trick is to have the popover batter made, the butter melted, and the pan ready. As soon after the turkey comes out of the oven the muffin tin gets heated, buttered, and the hazelnut popovers go in. The burst of heat makes them puff and crisp—with a golden, nutty exterior and a soft, hollow interior. These popovers are divine.—Diane Morgan

convert Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted and finely ground
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 1/4 cups milk
3 large eggs, beaten
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

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Method
1. In a medium bowl, or preferably a 4-cup glass measuring cup, combine the flour, hazelnuts, pepper, and salt. Slowly whisk in the milk until smooth. Whisk in the eggs and then add the parsley and chives. Whisk in 2 tablespoons of the butter. Let the batter stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours. Whisk before using.

2. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 450°F (230°C). Have ready a standard 12-cup muffin pan, preferably nonstick.

3. Place the muffin pan in the oven for about 10 minutes until hot. Remove the hot muffin pan from the oven. Using a pastry brush, generously brush the muffin cups with the remaining 3 tablespoons butter. Divide the batter equally among the muffin cups. Without opening the oven door at any time, bake the popovers for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven to 350°F (175°C) and continue to bake the popovers for 7 to 10 minutes longer until puffy and golden brown. Turn the popovers out of the pan, loosening them with the edge of a paring knife, if necessary. Serve immediately.

Do Ahead: The popover batter can be made up to 2 hours in advance. The popovers are best when baked right before serving.