Peter Reinhart | Artisan Breads Every Day | Ten Speed Press, 2009 | Makes 6 to 8 bagels

Let’s clear something up right away: New York City isn’t the only place in the world to get decent, authentic bagels. The truth is, you can make bagels that are just as good at home, no matter where you live. They’re one of the simplest breads to make, requiring only flour, water, salt, yeast, and malt—and one secret ingredient: time (in the form of long, slow, cold fermentation). Any decent bagel shop knows this and uses an overnight method to stretch out the fermentation process, releasing all sorts of subtle flavors trapped in the flour. While bagel shops often use a type of high-protein flour not available to home cooks to achieve that distinctively chewy texture, regular, unbleached bread flour can also do the trick. The real key is to use a much lower percentage of water than is used for baguettes and other European hearth breads, producing a stiff dough that can stand up to a dunking in boiling water before going into the oven. More than any ingredient or other aspect of the method, this boiling step is what defines the uniqueness of the bagel.

That said, bagels do usually feature one other distinctive ingredient: barley malt. While this may seem like an exotic, hard-to-find product, it’s actually commonly available at most supermarkets, usually labeled “barley malt syrup.” If you can’t find it, simply substitute an equal amount of honey. Your bagels might not have that malty flavor, but they’ll still be better than almost any bagel you can buy.—Peter Reinhart

One final note: If you like bagels but don’t want to set up the boiling operation for just six of them, feel free to double the size of the batch and bake enough to freeze for future use.

convert Ingredients
For the dough
1 tablespoon (0.75 oz / 21 g) barley malt syrup, honey, or rice syrup, or 1 teaspoon (0.25 oz / 7 g) diastatic malt powder
1 teaspoon (0.11 oz / 3 g) instant yeast
1 1/2 teaspoons (0.37 oz / 10.5 g) salt, or 2 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (9 oz / 255 g) lukewarm water (about 95°F or 35°C)
3 1/2 cups (16 oz / 454 g) unbleached bread flour

For the poaching liquid
2 to 3 quarts (64 to 96 oz / 181 to 272 g) water
1 1/2 tablespoons (1 oz / 28.5 g) barley malt syrup or honey (optional)
1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) baking soda
1 teaspoon (0.25 oz / 7 g) salt, or 11/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

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Method
Day one: make the dough
1. Stir the malt syrup, yeast, and salt into the lukewarm water. Place the flour into a mixing bowl and pour in the malt syrup mixture. If using a mixer, use the dough hook and mix on the lowest speed for 3 minutes. If mixing by hand, use a large, sturdy spoon and stir for about 3 minutes, until well blended. The dough should form a stiff, coarse ball, and the flour should be fully hydrated; if it isn’t, stir in a little more water. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes.

2. Resume mixing with the dough hook on the lowest speed for another 3 minutes or transfer to a very lightly floured work surface and knead by hand for about 3 minutes to smooth out the dough and develop the gluten. The dough should be stiff yet supple, with a satiny, barely tacky feel. If the dough seems too soft or overly tacky, mix or knead in a little more flour.

3. Place the dough in a clean, lightly oiled bowl, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise at room temperature for 1 hour.

Day one: shape the bagels
1. When you’re ready to shape the bagels, prepare a sheet pan by lining it with parchment paper or a silicone mat, then misting it with spray oil or lightly coating it with oil. Divide the dough into 6 to 8 equal pieces. (A typical bagel is about 4 ounces or 113 grams before baking, but you can make them smaller. If you make more than 6 bagels, you may need to prepare 2 sheet pans.)

2. Form each piece into a loose ball by rolling it on a clean, dry work surface with a cupped hand. (Don’t use any flour on the work surface. If the dough slides around and won’t ball up, wipe the surface with a damp paper towel and try again; the slight bit of moisture will provide enough traction for the dough to form into a ball.)

3. There are two methods to shape the balls into bagels.

• The first method is to poke a hole through the center of the ball to create a donut shape. Holding the dough with both thumbs in the hole, rotate the dough with your hands, gradually stretching it to create a hole about 2 inches in diameter.
• The second method, preferred by professional bagel makers, is to use both hands (and a fair amount of pressure) to roll the ball into a rope about 8 inches long on a clean, dry work surface. (Again, wipe the surface with a damp towel, if necessary, to create sufficient friction on the work surface.) Taper the rope slightly at each end and moisten the last inch or so of the ends. Place one end of the dough in the palm of your hand and wrap the rope around your hand to complete the circle, going between your thumb and forefinger and then all the way around. The ends should overlap by about 2 inches. Squeeze the overlapping ends together by closing your hand, then press the seam into the work surface, rolling it back and forth a few times to seal. Remove the dough from your hand, squeezing it to even out the thickness if need be and creating a hole of about 2 inches in diameter.

4. Place each shaped bagel on the prepared sheet pan, then mist with spray oil or brush with a light coating of oil. Cover the entire pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or for up to 2 days. (You can also proof the full piece of dough in the oiled bowl overnight and then shape the bagels on baking day, 60 to 90 minutes before boiling and baking them, or as soon as they pass the float test.)

Day two (or even three): test the bagels
1. Remove the bagels from the refrigerator 60 to 90 minutes before you plan to bake them, and if you plan to top them with dried onion or garlic, rehydrate those ingredients (see the variations below). Immediately check whether the bagels are ready for baking using the “float test”: Place one of the bagels in a small bowl of cold water. If it sinks and doesn’t float back to the surface, shake it off, return it to the pan, and wait for another 15 to 20 minutes, then test it again. When one bagel passes the float test, meaning they rise to the surface, they’re all ready to be boiled. If they pass the float test before you are ready to boil and bake them, return them to the refrigerator so they don’t overproof. About 30 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) and gather and prepare your garnishes (seeds, onions, garlic, and so on).

Day two (or even three): poaching the bagels
1. Fill a pot with 2 to 3 quarts (64 to 96 oz / 181 to 272 g) of water, making sure the water is at least 4 inches deep. Cover, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to maintain at a simmer. Stir in the malt syrup, baking soda, and salt.

2. Gently lower each bagel into the simmering poaching liquid, adding as many as will comfortably fit in the pot. They should all float to the surface within 15 seconds. After 1 minute, use a slotted spoon to turn each bagel over. Poach for another 30 to 60 seconds, then use the slotted spoon to transfer it back to the pan, domed side up. (It’s important that the parchment paper be lightly oiled, or the paper will glue itself to the dough as the bagels bake.) Sprinkle on a generous amount of whatever toppings you like as soon as the bagels come out of the water (except cinnamon sugar; see the variation below).

3. Transfer the pan of bagels to the oven, then lower the oven heat to 450°F (232°C).

4. Bake for 8 minutes, then rotate the pan and check the underside of the bagels. If they’re getting too dark, place another pan under the baking sheet. (Doubling the pan will insulate the first baking sheet.) Bake for another 8 to 12 minutes, until the bagels are a golden brown.

5. Cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing or serving.

Variations
~ You can replace any amount of the bread flour with an equal amount of whole grain flour (by weight), such as wheat or rye. If you do so, increase the water in the dough by 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) for every 2 ounces (56.5 g) of whole grain flour you substitute.

~ Top your bagels with any combination of the following garnishes: poppy seeds, sesame seeds, coarse salt, or rehydrated dried onions or garlic. (Soak dried onions or garlic in water to cover for at least 1 hour before applying.) The toppings will stick even better if you first brush the top of each bagel with an egg white wash made by whisking 1 egg white with 1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) of water. If using coarse salt as a garnish, remember that a little goes a long way.

~ For raisin bagels, mix in 1 1/3 cups (8 oz / 227 g) of raisins during the final 2 minutes of mixing and, if you like cinnamon, stir 1/2 teaspoon (0.14 oz / 4 g) of ground cinnamon into the flour before you start mixing. When the bagels come out of the oven, brush the tops with melted butter and dip the top into a bed of cinnamon sugar to give it a very tasty cinnamon crust. You can make cinnamon sugar by whisking 2 tablespoons (1.6 oz / 44 g) of ground cinnamon into 1/2 cup (4 oz / 113 g) of granulated sugar.

Recipe © 2009 Peter Reinhart. All rights reserved. Photo © 2009 Leo Gong.
© 2010 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Scones, which originated in England, are similar to biscuits, but they are much richer. They are made from a short pastry, with lots of butter and cream incorporated into the dough. They are very flaky and tender. They are usually cut into large triangles.

Once on a morning walk I passed an elegant coffee bar in downtown Seattle. There on the counter were the most gorgeous scones, labeled Bacon and Egg Scones. I had never heard of this variation before, but I thought it was a great idea, combining all the ingredients for a complete breakfast into a handheld meal.—Paula Lambert

convert Ingredients
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold
3 large eggs
3/4 cup heavy cream
2 ounces Cheddar shredded (1/2 cup)
2 large eggs, lightly scrambled and broken up into pieces about 1 inch square
3 strips bacon, partially cooked and cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Lightly butter a baking sheet or line it with parchment paper.

2. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Place in either a medium bowl or the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Cut the butter into the flour so that it is completely incorporated, using two knives, a pastry blender, your hands, or food processor until incorporated. Beat 2 of the raw eggs and the cream together and add to the dry ingredients. Mix or process just to incorporate the eggs into the flour and butter; do not overmix. If using the processor, dump the flour-and-butter mixture into a clean bowl. Fold the cheese, scrambled eggs, and bacon into the flour mixture. It will be sticky and chunky. Stir and knead the dough as little as possible while distributing the cheese, scrambled eggs, and bacon throughout.

3. Transfer the dough to a well-floured work surface. Pat the dough into a rectangle about 12-by-4-by-3/4 inch high. Cut the dough into three 4-inch squares. Cut the squares on the diagonal to form six triangles.

4. Place the scones at least 1 inch apart on the baking sheet. Beat the remaining 1 egg with 2 tablespoons water and use this wash to brush the tops of the scones.

5. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove and serve warm.

Recipe © 2000 Simon and Schuster. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Melted butter is used in both the filling and the dough, and to grease the pan — its easiest to melt the total amount (8 tablespoons) all at once in a heatproof measuring cup and then measure it as needed. The cream cheese makes the glaze thicker and less grainy, but it can be omitted.—Cook’s Illustrated

convert Ingredients
For the cinnamon buns
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3/4 cup packed (5 1/4 ounces) dark brown sugar
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon plus 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 cups (12 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting the work surface
1 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 cups buttermilk

For the glaze
2 tablespoons cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons buttermilk
1 cup (4 ounces) confectioners’ sugar

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Method
Make the buns
1. Adjust an oven rack to the upper-middle position and heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Brush a round 9-inch nonstick cake pan with 1 tablespoon butter. Spray a wire cooling rack with nonstick cooking spray.

2. Combine the brown sugar, 4 tablespoons granulated sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and 1/8 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon melted butter and stir with a fork or fingers until the mixture resembles wet sand; set the filling mixture aside.

3. Whisk together the flour, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl. Whisk together the buttermilk and 2 tablespoons butter in a measuring cup. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients and stir with a wooden spoon until the liquid is absorbed (the dough will look shaggy), about 30 seconds. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until just smooth and no longer shaggy about 30 seconds.

4. Pat the dough with your hands into a 12 by 9-inch rectangle. Brush the dough with 2 tablespoons melted butter. Sprinkle the dough evenly with the brown sugar filling, leaving a 1/2-inch border. Press the filling firmly into the dough. Using a bench scraper or metal spatula, loosen the dough from the work surface. Starting at a long side, roll the dough, pressing lightly, to form a tight log. Pinch the seam to seal. Roll the log seam-side down and cut it evenly into 8 pieces. Turn the pieces over on their flat sides, and with your hand, slightly flatten each piece of dough to seal the open edges and keep the filling in place. Place 1 roll in the center of the prepared pan and then place the remaining 7 rolls around the perimeter of the pan. Brush the rolls with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.

5. Bake until the edges are golden brown, 23 to 25 minutes. Use an offset metal spatula to loosen the buns from the pan. Wearing oven mitts, place a large plate over the pan and invert the buns onto the plate. Place the greased cooling rack over the plate and invert the buns onto the rack. Cool about 5 minutes before glazing.

MAKE GLAZE AND FINISH BUNS
1. While the buns are cooling, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper (for easy cleanup); set the rack with the buns on the baking sheet. Whisk the cream cheese and buttermilk in a large bowl until thick and smooth (the mixture will look like cottage cheese at first). Sift the confectioners’ sugar over the mixture and whisk until a smooth glaze forms’ about 30 seconds. Spoon the glaze evenly over the buns; serve immediately.

Recipe © 2003 Cook’s Illustrated. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Virginia Willis  |  Bon Appétit, Y’All |  Ten Speed Press, 2008  |  Makes two 9-by-5-3-inch loaves

The wealthy and powerful Dukes of Burgundy controlled the spice trade in the Middle Ages. The windows of the shops and bakeries of Dijon are filed with tightly wrapped loaves of pain d’épice, the traditional honey spice bread of the region. It’s similar to American-style gingerbread only in that they both contain a variety of spices. The texture of the French bread, however, is denser, as it is traditionally baked at a low temperature for several hours, and the spice combination is slightly different. I’ve adapted this version to cook in less time at a higher temperature. The texture is not as traditional, but the flavor is still incredible. Ground fennel seed is not widely available; it can be ordered, or simply grind your own in a spice grinder.—Virginia Willis

While at La Varenne, we served this bread for breakfast for special guests. It’s also wonderful with a hot cup of tea on a chilly fall afternoon.

convert Ingredients
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, for the loaf pans
1 1/4 cups milk
1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1 1/2 cups honey (preferably tupelo, orange blossom, or sweet clover)
4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon ground fennel seed
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons very finely chopped candied ginger
1 large egg, at room temperature
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
2 teaspoons baking soda

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°). Brush two 9 x 5 x 3-inch loaf pans with butter. Cut four strips of parchment: two 15 x 5 inches, and two 14 x 8 inches. Lay the two long pieces of parchment the length of the buttered pan and press to adhere. Brush the parchment with butter. Lay the two wider pieces crosswise on top. Brush the parchment with butter. Everything must be very well buttered or the bread will stick.

2. Heat the milk, brown sugar, and honey in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from the heat and set aside until slightly cooled.

3. To make the batter, in the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the flour, ground fennel, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and salt. In two batches, add the honey mixture and candied ginger. Scrape down the sides as needed, and blend on low speed until just combined.

4. In a small liquid measuring cup, combine the egg, egg yolk, and baking soda. Stir to combine. Add the egg mixture to the batter and beat until well blended.

5. To bake the loaves, pour the batter into the prepared loaf pans, dividing it evenly and not filling the pans more than halfway. Bake, rotating once, until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Cover with aluminum foil if the bread starts to become too dark.

6. Remove the loaves to a rack to cool slightly, about 15 minutes. Turn them out of the pans and immediately remove the parchment paper. Store very tightly wrapped in plastic wrap for up to 1 week.

Recipe © 2008 Virginia Willis. Photo © 2008  Ellen Silverman. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Originating in Milan, Italy, this cake is traditionally served at Christmas, but its popularity is so widespread that it can be found in bakery and pastry shops almost year round.

You can make two larger loaves or four smaller loaves by baking them in either 2-pound or 1-pound coffee cans. Or for a festive treat, bake them in individual paper molds, which can be found at you local bakery supply store. —Suzanne Dunaway

convert Ingredients
For the starter
1 cup warm milk
2 1/2 tablespoons active dry yeast
1 3/4 cups unbleached flour
1 teaspoon sugar

For the dough
1 cup raw pistachios
1 teaspoon salt, plus a few pinches
4 1/2 cups unbleached flour, plus more for kneading and shaping the dough
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest
1/2 cup candied orange and lemon rind, optional
1 cup dried cranberries
2 tablespoons dark rum
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for the pans
1 cup sugar
4 large eggs
2 large egg yolks (whites reserved for glaze)

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Method
Make the starter
1. In a small glass bowl, combine the warm milk, yeast, flour, and sugar and stir to blend. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes.

Make the panettone  dough
1. Place the pistachios on a baking sheet and spray them with water, sprinkle with a pinch or two of salt, and toast for 10 minutes, watching to make sure they do not burn. Cool completely and chop coarsely.

2. In a bowl, combine the 1 teaspoon salt, the flour, lemon and orange zests, candied orange and lemon peel, if using, cranberries, pistachios, rum, and vanilla.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed for 2 minutes or until fluffy. Add the eggs and yolks and beat well. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture, mixing just until combined. Gradually add the starter and continue to beat on low speed until all ingredients are incorporated. The dough should not be sticky or too firm. It should look buttery and a little ragged.

4. Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface and knead for 1 to 2 minutes, pushing the dough away from you with the heels of your hands, and then folding it back over on itself. The dough will be smooth and satiny.

5. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover, and let rise in a warm place for about 2 hours, or until doubled in size. Gently turn out the dough onto a work surface and divide it into 4 equal pieces, if making smaller loaves, or into 2 pieces if making larger loaves; keep as much air in the dough as possible. Let the pieces rest, covered with a clean dish towel, for 10 minutes.

6. For the smaller panettone, butter four 1-pound coffee cans or other deep molds that are 4 to 5 inches wide. Use 2-pound coffee cans to make two large panettone. Shape each piece into a smooth ball and place the dough in the mold. It should fill half the mold.

7. Beat the reserved egg whites and brush the tops of the loaves. Cover and let the loaves rise for 1 hour, or until just slightly less than doubled. (The dough may be active and rise quickly, so you may not need the full hour.)

8. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

9. Uncover the panettone, place the molds on the middle rack of the oven, and reduce the heat to 350°F (175°C). Bake for 30 to 35 minutes for the smaller molds and up to 45 minutes for the larger molds. (If, after 20 minutes of baking, the top of the panettone is taking on too much color, cover loosely with a piece of aluminum foil.) The bread is done when a wooden skewer inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Cool for 15 minutes, then carefully remove the loaves from the cans and place the panettone on wire racks to cool completely. Panettone will keep fresh for up to a week in a plastic bag; freeze them for up to 6 months.

Recipe © 2004 Michael J. Rosen. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Get your Christmas morning going in the right direction with these appetite-soothing, chocolate-sour cream crumb cakes. They’re sour cream-enhanced, cinnamon-and-walnut-crumb-topped chocolate cupcakes. What a way to start a special day!—Marcel Desaulniers

convert Ingredients
For the cinnamon-walnut crumb topping
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup walnut halves, toasted and coarsely chopped
1/4 cup tightly packed light brown sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt

For the chocolate-sour cream crumb cakes
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup granulated sugar
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-tablespoon pieces
2 large eggs
2 ounces semisweet baking chocolate, coarsely chopped and melted
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

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Method
Make the cinnamon-walnut crumb topping
1. Place the flour, walnuts, brown sugar, butter, cinnamon, and salt in the bowl of a stand electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on the lowest speed for 4 minutes, then mix on medium for 30 seconds, until the mixture is crumbly.

Make the chocolate-sour cream crumb cakes
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line 18 muffin tin cups with 2 1/2-inch foil liners.

2. In a sifter, combine the flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Sift onto a large piece of parchment or wax paper.

3. Place the granulated sugar and butter in a clean bowl of a stand electric mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on low for 1 minute, then beat on medium for 2 minutes, until soft. Stop and scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating on medium for 30 seconds after each addition, and scraping down again once the eggs have been incorporated (at this point the batter will look curdled; but don’t worry, the melted chocolate will remedy the situation).

4. Add the melted chocolate and mix on medium for 15 seconds. Scrape down again. Add the buttermilk and sour cream and beat on medium for 1 minute, until the mixture is thoroughly combined and smooth. Scrape down again. Turn on the mixer at the lowest speed and gradually add the dry ingredients; mix until incorporated, about 1 minute. Scrape down again. Add the vanilla and mix on medium to combine, about 15 seconds. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the ingredients until thoroughly combined.

5. Portion 2 heaping tablespoons or 1 level #20 ice-cream scoop of batter into each muffin cup. Sprinkle 1 slightly heaping tablespoon of the Cinnamon Walnut Crumb Topping over as much of each cup of batter as possible. Place the muffin tins on the top and center racks of the oven, and bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of one of the cakes comes out ever so slightly moist with batter, about 20 minutes. (Switch the pans between top and center halfway through the baking time and rotate each 180 degrees.) Remove from the oven and cool at room temperature in the tins for 15 minutes. Remove the crumb cakes from the muffin tins (but not from the liners). Serve immediately, while still warm.

Recipe © 2007 by Marcel Desaulniers. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Lemon and cream cheese have long been classic companions in American baking, and this fun-to-assemble, sweet-tart filled coffee cake makes it easy to see why. Showcasing the lively flavors of fresh citrus, the sweet, buttery filling is made with fluffy, fragrant lemon and orange zest. The warm loaf is brushed with a zippy cream cheese icing, whose tangy flavor marries marvelously with the sunny taste of citrus. Enjoy a slice of this pull-apart coffee cake whenever you need a pick-me-up.—Flo Braker

convert Ingredients
For the sweet yeast dough
About 2 3/4 cups (12 1/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) granulated sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons (1 envelope) instant yeast
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup (2 1/2 fluid ounces) whole milk
2 ounces unsalted butter
1/4 cup (2 fluid ounces) water
1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature

For the lemon paste filling
1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest (3 lemons)
1 tablespoon finely grated orange zest
2 ounces unsalted butter, melted

For the tangy cream cheese icing
3 ounces cream cheese, softened
1/3 cup (1 1/4 ounces) powdered sugar
1 tablespoon whole milk
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

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Method
Make the sweet yeast dough
1. Stir together 2 cups (9 ounces) of the flour, the sugar, the yeast, and the salt in the bowl of a stand mixer; set aside. In a small saucepan, heat the milk and butter over low heat just until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat, add the water, and set aside until warm (120 to 130°F [49 to 54°C]), about 1 minute. Add the vanilla extract.

2. Pour the milk mixture over the flour-yeast mixture and, using a rubber spatula, mix until the dry ingredients are evenly moistened. Attach the bowl to the mixer, and fit the mixer with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, add the eggs, one at a time, mixing after each addition just until incorporated. Stop the mixer, add 1/2 cup (2 1/4 ounces) of the remaining flour, and resume mixing on low speed until the dough is smooth, 30 to 45 seconds. Add 2 more tablespoons flour and mix on medium speed until the dough is smooth, soft, and slightly sticky, about 45 seconds.

3. Sprinkle a work surface with 1 tablespoon flour and center the dough on the flour. Knead gently until smooth and no longer sticky, about 1 minute, adding an additional 1 to 2 tablespoons flour only if necessary to lessen the stickiness. Place the dough in a large bowl, cover the bowl securely with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise in a warm place (about 70°F [21°C]) until doubled in size, 45 to 60 minutes. Press the dough gently with a fingertip. If the indentation remains, the dough is ready for the next step. While the dough is rising, make the filling.

Make the lemon paste filling
1. In a small bowl, mix together the sugar and the lemon and orange zests. Set the sandy-wet mixture nearby (the sugar draws out moisture from the zests to create the consistency).

Make the coffee cake
1. Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Lightly butter a 9-by-5-by-3-inch loaf pan. Or, lightly coat the pan with nonstick spray.

2. Gently deflate the dough. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough into a 20-by-12-inch rectangle. Using a pastry brush spread the melted butter generously over the dough. Cut the dough crosswise into 5 strips, each about 12 by 4 inches. (A pizza cutter is helpful here.) Sprinkle 1 1/2 tablespoons of the zest-sugar mixture over one of the buttered rectangles. Top with a second rectangle and sprinkle it with 1 1/2 tablespoons of the zest-sugar mixture. Repeat with the remaining dough rectangles and zest-sugar mixture, ending with a stack of 5 rectangles. Work carefully when adding the crumbly zest filling, or it will fall off when you have to lift the stacked pastry later.

3. Slice the stack crosswise through the 5 layers to create 6 equal strips, each about 4 by 2 inches. Fit these layered strips into the prepared loaf pan, cut edges up and side by side. (While there is plenty of space on either side of the 6 strips widthwise in the pan, fitting the strips lengthwise is tight. But that’s fine because the spaces between the dough and the sides of the pan fill in during baking.) Loosely cover the pan with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm place (70 °F [21°C]) until puffy and almost doubled in size, 30 to 50 minutes. Press the dough gently with a fingertip. If the indentation remains, the dough is ready for baking.

4. Bake the coffee cake until the top is golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool in the pan for 10 to 15 minutes.

Make the tangy cream cheese icing
1. In a medium bowl, using a rubber spatula, vigorously mix the cream cheese and sugar until smooth. Beat in the milk and lemon juice until the mixture is creamy and smooth.

2. To remove the coffee cake from the pan, tilt and rotate the pan while gently tapping it on a counter to release the cake sides. Invert a wire rack on top of the coffee cake, invert the cake onto the rack, and carefully lift off the pan. Invert another rack on top, invert the cake so it is right side up, and remove the original rack.

3. Slip a sheet of waxed paper under the rack to catch any drips from the icing. Using a pastry brush, coat the top of the warm cake with the icing to glaze it. (Cover and refrigerate the leftover icing for another use. It will keep for up to 2 days.)

4. Serve the coffee cake warm or at room temperature. To serve, you can pull apart the layers, or you can cut the cake into 1-inch-thick slices on a slight diagonal with a long, serrated knife. If you decide to cut the cake, don’t attempt to cut it until it is almost completely cool.

Recipe © 2008 Flo Braker. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

A café favorite since we opened, this hearty dish of sauteed new potatoes, vegetables, and poached eggs is hard to beat. Be sure to brown the potatoes well before adding all the vegetables. Cook in two pans if necessary, or make it in batches. Top with Salsa Fresca and sour cream if desired.—Romney Steele

convert Ingredients
For the salsa fresca
5 or 6 Roma tomatoes, finely diced
1 small red onion, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and minced
1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves only
Salt
2 or 3 teaspoons lime juice (optional)

For the new potato hash
1 1/2 to 2 pounds red new potatoes, scrubbed
1/2 red onion
1 sweet red bell pepper
4 mushrooms
1 medium zucchini
2 or 3 ribs chard, stems and rib removed
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 or 4 eggs (1 per person)
1 cup Salsa Fresca
Sour cream (optional)
Chopped fresh parsley or cilantro, for garnish

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Method
Make the salsa fresca
1. Mix the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and chile in a bowl. Make sure you have a nice balance of colors and texture. Stir in the cilantro and a couple pinches of salt. The flavors will develop the longer it sits, and it may get hotter as well. You can stir in a little fresh lime juice for added flavor or to balance the heat.

Make the new potato hash
1. Boil the unpeeled new potatoes in salted water until fork tender, not soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain, cool, and then cut into bite-size chunks.

2. Slice the onion, red pepper, mushrooms, zucchini, and chard into similar thicknesses for even cooking.

3. Heat the butter and olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the potatoes and a little salt and pepper and saute until browned, about 10 minutes, shaking the pan on occasion. Add the onion, pepper, and mushrooms and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until soft. Add the zucchini and chard and cook for 5 minutes longer, until all vegetables are nicely browned along with the potatoes. Season with a little more salt and pepper.

4. Poach the eggs just before new potato hash is done. Have a medium pot of water simmering at a rapid speed. One at a time, crack the eggs into a small bowl, then gently slip them into the simmering water. Poach the eggs 2 minutes for soft yolks or longer if you like them harder. One at a time, scoop out the poached eggs with a slotted spoon and gently rest on a towel for just a second to soak up any water.

5. To serve, divide the hash among bowls; top each serving with a poached egg, salsa, and sour cream. Sprinkle with the parsley or cilantro to finish.

Recipe © 2009 Romney Steele. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.