Darina Allen | Forgotten Skills of Cooking | Kyle Books, 2009 | Serves 8 to 10

I’m amazed people don’t eat fools more often. My brother Rory O’Connell, who gave me this recipe, says this is one of those recipes that somehow is much greater than the sum of its parts. Three simple ingredients produce a rich and luscious result.

When in season I use fresh raspberries, but this fool is also excellent made with frozen berries—I haven’t quite decided if it is actually better with the latter, as the flavor of the berries seems to be accentuated when frozen ones are used. Any leftover fool can be frozen to make ice cream. —Darina Allen

convert Ingredients
1 pound raspberries, fresh or frozen
1/2 to 1 cup superfine sugar
2 cups whipped cream
Shortbread cookies for serving (optional)

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Method
1. Place the raspberries in a single layer on a dish. Sprinkle with the sugar and allow to macerate for 1 hour. If you are using frozen berries this should be long enough for them to defrost.

2. Purée the fruit in a blender, then pass it through a strainer set over a bowl to remove the seeds. Gently fold in the whipped cream—go lightly if you want to create a “swirly” effect.

3. The fool is now ready to be served or can be chilled for serving later.

Note: If desired, serve with shortbread cookies.

Recipe © 2009 Darina Allen. Photo © 2009 Peter Cassidy. All rights reserved.
© 2010 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

This is my updated version of a fine heirloom recipe shared with me by retired New Jersey cranberry grower Tom Darlington. His family has been prominent in the cranberry business in the Whitesbog area of the New Jersey Pine Barrens since the late 1860’s. His grandfather J. J. White was the first to dig bogs and raise cranberries where they didn’t originally grow. At the time, this approach was considered so preposterous that it was dubbed White’s Folly. By the early twentieth century, however, the J. J. White Company had become the largest cranberry operation in the state.

Tom says that his family has been enjoying this dessert at Thanksgiving and on other holidays for as long as he can remember. It was handed down from his aunt Elizabeth White. The pudding and sauce are a perfect pair: the cranberry pudding is moist, and bright with bits of berries, and the mild, buttery sauce provides balancing richness and sweetness. (Don’t consider serving one without the other!)—Nancy Baggett

convert Ingredients
For the pudding
2 1/4 cups fresh (or frozen, partially thawed) cranberries, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup sugar (divided)
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon finely grated orange zest (orange part of skin)
1/3 cup orange juice
1/4 cup light molasses
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the sauce
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup heavy (whipping) cream
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into chunks
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
Generous 1/4 teaspoon finely grated orange zest (orange part of skin)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

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Method
Make the pudding
1. Generously grease a 1 1/2-quart pudding mold, small one-piece heatproof tube pan, or similar ring mold or generously coat with nonstick spray. Set out a deep pot or saucepan that is large enough to hold the mold. Place a wire rack (or collapsible vegetable steaming basket) in the pot bottom.

2. In a medium bowl, stir together the cranberries and 3 tablespoons of the sugar; set aside. In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and salt.

3. In a small bowl, stir together the orange zest, orange juice, molasses, and remaining 5 tablespoons sugar until the sugar dissolves. Add the molasses mixture and the butter to the dry ingredients, stirring just until evenly incorporated. Stir in the cranberries until evenly distributed. Turn out the batter into the mold or pan, spreading it to the edges. Cover the mold tightly with a lid or aluminum foil.

4. Add 3/4 inch hot water to the pot. Set the mold on the rack in the pot, cover the pot, and bring the water to a simmer over medium-high heat. Lower the heat so the water simmers very gently. Gently simmer, checking the pot occasionally and replenishing the water, if needed, for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until a wooden skewer inserted in the thickest part of the pudding comes out clean; the time will vary considerably depending on the mold.

5. Transfer the pudding to a wire rack. Let cool until firmed up somewhat, about 30 minutes, but not completely cooled, or it may be difficult to unmold. Carefully run the tip of a table knife around the sides and center tube to loosen the pudding; invert and slide onto a serving plate.

6. The pudding will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Reheat in a low oven (or in a microwave oven on medium power) until slightly warm before serving.

Make the sauce
1. In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, thoroughly stir together the sugar, cream, butter, corn syrup, and orange zest. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar completely dissolves and the butter melts.

2. Bring to a boil. Boil gently, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla.

3. The sauce will keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Reheat in a saucepan over low heat, stirring (or in a microwave oven on medium power, stopping and stirring once), until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is warm and fluid. If necessary, thin it with a little hot water before serving.

4. Drizzle a little sauce over the pudding, cut into slices, and serve. Pass the remaining sauce in a pitcher or sauceboat.

Recipe © 2005 Nancy Baggett. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

One of the most famous of all Spanish Catalan desserts, crèma catalana is a simple stovetop-cooked custard served in shallow terra-cotta cazuelitas. A very hot salamander (a small kitchen iron with a long handle) is used to sear the top, forming a glassy, paper-thin crust that imparts a delicious burnt sugar taste and a wonderful smoky aroma.

In this version, which dates back more than a hundred years, a luxurious creaminess and depth of flavor are created through the extra step of baking the custards in a slow oven after the stovetop cooking. (David Kinch, chef-owner of the celebrated Manresa restaurant in Los Gatos, California, who worked previously at the Catalan restaurant Sent Sovi, confirmed to me that, in fact, some old Catalan culinary texts suggest this type of dual cooking.)

Interestingly, this second step brings the recipe close to the famous crème brûlée, but there are two main differences: Crema catalana is not baked in a bain-marie or water bath; it’s made with a mixture of milk and cream, which makes it lighter than the French version, which is usually made entirely of heavy cream.

You can purchase cazuelitas along with a salamander or branding iron from La Tienda. See the notes for tips on how to use the salamander and also how to finish the dish with a kitchen blowtorch or a gas broiler.—Paula Wolfert

Preferred clay pot:
A 3-quart glazed or unglazed earthenware or ceramic flameware saucepan or casserole
6 earthenware cazuelitas or very shallow porcelain or stoneware baking dishes, 6 ounces each, and about 5 inches in diameter
If using an electric or ceramic stovetop, be sure to use a heat diffuser with the clay pot.

convert Ingredients
1 quart whole milk
1 piece (2 inches) vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 long strip lemon zest
1/2 cup egg yolks (7 or 8 yolks)
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
6 tablespoons turbinado sugar

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Method
1. Pour the milk into the earthenware saucepan and set over low heat. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the milk and throw in the pod as well. Add the lemon zest, raise the heat to medium-low, and cook until bubbles appear around the rim of the pan. Transfer the hot saucepan to a wooden surface or folded kitchen towel to prevent cracking and let the flavorings steep in the milk for about 20 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 210°F (99°C). Reheat the milk over medium heat until hot but not boiling. Scoop out and discard the flavorings.

3. In a mixing bowl, combine the egg yolks, granulated sugar, and cornstarch. Beat until smooth, creamy, and pale in color, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk. Scrape the egg yolk mixture into the remaining milk in the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring, until the custard is creamy and thick enough to coat a wooden spoon thickly. Do not allow to boil.

4. Arrange the cazuelitas on a jelly roll pan. Ladle the custard into them, dividing it evenly. Bake for 1 to 1 1/4 hours, or until the custard is set around the edges but still slightly jiggly in the center. Let cool, then cover each little dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

5. About 20 minutes before serving, remove the cazuelitas from the refrigerator and discard their plastic covers. Use a paper towel to gently blot away any surface moisture on top of each. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the turbinado sugar evenly over each custard. Caramelize in any of the three ways described in the Notes, and serve at once.

Notes:
I purchase Tahitian vanilla beans online and keep them covered in white rum in a glass jar. The vanilla retains flavor, and the rum acquires a lovely aroma useful for flavoring cakes at some other time.

To caramelize using an iron salamander: Place the salamander over a high flame on a gas stovetop, on the coil of an electric burner set to high, or on a flat glass-topped electric stove. Heat for at least 5 minutes. Working on one crema at a time, apply the hot round portion directly to the sugar and hold until sizzling and smoking. The moment you lift the salamander, the sugar topping will turn glassy. Wipe the salamander with a damp cloth; then return it to reheat for a few minutes before glazing the next crema. The cremas will retain their glassy crust for about 20 minutes, so you should have enough time to finish them all off. To clean your salamander, let it cool down completely, rinse under hot water, and scrub with a pumice stone until smooth; then rinse again and dry thoroughly.

To caramelize using a kitchen blowtorch: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for igniting your blowtorch. Hold it about 3 inches above the sugar topping so the end of the flame just touches the sugar. Use a slow rotating movement, allowing the flame to “lick” the entire surface evenly until glazed and dark brown.

To caramelize using a gas broiler: Preheat the broiler. Set the well-chilled custards about 5 inches below the flame and broil until the sugar surface turns deep brown. Using an electric broiler to caramelize is not recommended since by the time the sugar has glazed, the custards will lose their chill.

Recipe © 2009 Paula Wolfert. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

This noodle kugel is definitely American—with dark brown sugar and pecans! Your guests will love it.—Joan Nathan

convert Ingredients
1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) salted butter or margarine
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
1 cup pecans, halved
1 pound wide noodles
4 large eggs
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons salt

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Method
1. Melt half the butter in a 12-cup mold or tube pan. Swirl it around the bottom and up the sides.

2. Press the brown sugar into the bottom and press the pecans into the sugar.

3. Boil the noodles according to the package directions and then drain. Mix the noodles with the eggs, the remaining butter, melted, cinnamon, sugar, and salt and pour into the mold.

4. Bake the kugel in a preheated 350°F (175°C)  oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the top is brown. Let the kugel sit for 15 minutes before unmolding. The top will become slightly hard like a praline. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Recipe © 1998 Joan Nathan. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

This recipe for lavender panna cotta is from my colleague and friend Chef Mary Cleaver, who is at the forefront of the movement toward improving our food supply as a nation. She has taught me to strive to include as many organic, local, and seasonal ingredients as possible in my own cooking, and so I wanted to share one of her sweet recipes with you for a lovely summer dessert.—Karen Bussen

convert Ingredients
5 cups heavy cream
1 1/3 cups milk
2 tablespoons dried lavender flowers
1 1/2 cups sugar
Two 1/2-ounce packets powdered gelatin
Honey, for garnish

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Method
1. To make the panna cotta, combine the cream, 1 cup of the milk, and the lavender in a saucepan and bring it to a boil. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the sugar until it dissolves. Strain out the lavender.

2. While the cream mixture is cooling slightly, pour the remaining 1/3 cup cold milk into a small bowl and sprinkle the powdered gelatin over it. Let stand for 5 minutes.

3. Stir the dissolved gelatin into the very warm cream mixture. (If it has become too cool to dissolve the gelatin, set it back on a low flame, stirring continuously, until the gelatin is completely incorporated into the cream.)

4. Pour the panna cotta mixture into individual serving vessels or a single dish. Let sit for at least 6 hours in the refrigerator, undisturbed, on a flat surface. Drizzle the panna cotta lightly with a few drops of honey before serving.

Recipe © 2009 Karen Bussen. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Milk chocolate is often overlooked in the quest for the newest and darkest offerings, but it’s still a favorite—with kids and adults alike. Its presence is a surprise in this double chocolate pots de creme recipe, as the luscious milk chocolate custard is hidden under a thin layer of warm chocolate ganache. So although the spoon dips into a dark surface, it comes out with a lighter chocolate custard full of the malty, caramel-like qualities of milk chocolate. The interplay of cool, milky sweetness against warm, dark richness is sublime.

The pots de creme may be baked up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap. Cover with the warm ganache shortly before serving.—Sur La Table and Cindy Mushet

convert Ingredients
For the milk chocolate custard
7 ounces good-quality milk chocolate, finely chopped
1 large egg
4 large egg yolks
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) heavy whipping cream
1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) whole milk
1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) sugar

For the dark chocolate ganache
1 1/2 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate (up to 64 percent cacao)
5 tablespoons (2 1/2 ounces) heavy whipping cream

Optional for serving
Softly whipped cream
Milk or dark chocolate curls

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Method
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C) and position an oven rack in the center.

Make the milk chocolate custard
1. Place the chopped chocolate in the medium bowl. Combine the egg and egg yolks in the small bowl.

2. Heat the cream, milk, and sugar in the medium saucepan over medium heat until just before the mixture boils. Immediately pour it over the chopped chocolate. Let it sit for 1 minute, then whisk gently but thoroughly to completely blend the mixture. Add the whole egg and yolks, whisking to incorporate thoroughly.

3. Pour the chocolate custard through the strainer into the pitcher.

4. Place the custard cups in the large roasting pan, making sure they don’t touch, and divide the warm chocolate custard among them. Pull out the oven rack and place the pan on the rack; then remove one of the cups, pour enough hot tap water (not boiling) into that area to come halfway up the sides of the cups, and replace the cup. Cut a piece of foil large enough to fit just inside the edges of the pan, then lay the foil across the top of the cups, making sure it doesn’t touch the custard. You may need to smooth and flatten the foil on the counter if any wrinkles touch the custard. Gently push the rack back into the oven, shut the oven door, and bake the custards for 50 to 60 minutes, just until the edges of the custards are set—there should still be a dime-size liquid area in the very center of the custard (test by gently tapping the side of the pan).

5. Remove the foil and then the pan from the oven, being careful not to tilt the pan and splash water on top of the custards. Set the pan on a heatproof surface. Use the tongs (or your hand protected by a kitchen towel) to immediately remove the cups from the water bath and place them on a rack to cool to room temperature, about 40 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours or overnight.

Make the dark chocolate ganache
1. Place the chopped semisweet chocolate in the cleaned small bowl. Heat the cream in the small saucepan over medium heat just until it begins to simmer (do not allow the cream to boil and evaporate).

2. Immediately pour the cream over the chocolate. Allow the mixture to sit undisturbed for 1 minute, then gently stir with the spatula until thoroughly blended and smooth. Spoon a tablespoon of ganache onto the surface of each custard, then gently swirl each cup until the dark chocolate completely covers the custard. (If the ganache seems too thick to spread easily, heat another tablespoon of cream and add it to the mixture).

3. Serve the pots de creme immediately, while the ganache is still warm, or refrigerate up to 1 hour. As the ganache chills, it begins to harden and pull away from the sides of the cup, losing its silken texture and exposing the custard beneath, thereby spoiling the surprise. Serve each with a spoonful of whipped cream, topped with a scattering of chocolate curls if you like.

Recipe © 2008 Sur La Table, Inc. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

This frozen layered terrine is an ideal dessert to make ahead and so easy to pull out, slice, and serve when an elegant finish is called for. Keep it in mind when the weather turns warm. Wrapped in plastic, it holds well for 2 weeks in the freezer. The lemon zest garnish must be made at least 1 day ahead.

At Bottega, we serve the semifreddo on top of a basic génoise sponge (as pictured), but it’s not necessary.—Frank Stitt

convert Ingredients
For the candied lemon zest
4 lemons, scrubbed
2 cups sugar
1 cup cold water

For the lemon curd
1 cup fresh lemon juice (you can use the lemons you zested; you’ll need a couple more)
2 cups sugar
2 large eggs
8 large egg yolks
1/2 pound unsalted butter, cut into pieces
2 1/2 cups chilled heavy cream
Juice of 1 lemon

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Method
Make the candied zest
1. Remove the zest from the lemons with a zester, making sure not to remove any of the bitter white pith. Place the zest in a small bowl, cover with boiling water, and let stand for 30 minutes. Drain.

2. Bring the sugar and cold water to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

3. Add the drained zest, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 10 minutes. Transfer the zest and syrup to a bowl, cover, and let stand overnight.

4. The next day, transfer the zest and syrup to an airtight container. (The zest can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.)

Make the lemon curd
1. Prepare an ice bath and set aside.

2. Whisk together the lemon juice, sugar, eggs, egg yolks, and butter in a large heavy saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly (do not walk away), until it begins to boil and becomes thick and pudding-like, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Strain the curd through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, and set the bowl in the ice bath. Stir the curd periodically until it is cool, then remove the bowl from the ice bath and place a sheet of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the lemon curd. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (The curd can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)

4. Whip 1 1/2 cups of the chilled heavy cream in a large mixing bowl with a wire whisk or electric mixer until soft peaks form. Remove the chilled lemon curd from the refrigerator, and set aside 1/2 cup for the sauce. Gently fold the remaining lemon curd into the whipped cream until well combined. Refrigerate the reserved lemon curd. (It can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 1 week.)

Assemble the semifreddo
1. Arrange eight 3-inch ring molds or 6-ounce ramekins on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Spoon the lemon mousse into the molds, filling each with about 3/4 cup. Cover and transfer to the freezer to firm up for at least 4 hours. (The mousse can be frozen for up to 1 week.)

2. Drain the candied lemon zest, reserving the syrup for the sauce, and set the zest aside on a plate or sheet of parchment.

3. Whisk 1/3 cup of the lemon syrup with the remaining 1/2 cup lemon curd and the lemon juice in a small bowl; set the sauce aside.

4. To serve, remove the ring molds or ramekins from the freezer and let them warm up for 4 to 5 minutes. (If using ramekins, you can dip each one briefly in hot water to release the semifreddo.)

5. Meanwhile, whisk the remaining 1 cup chilled cream in a medium bowl until soft peaks form. Unmold the mouse onto individual dessert plates. Spoon the lemon sauce around the mousse, top with the whipped cream, and finish with a garnish of candied lemon zest.

To drink: Moscato d’Asti (Marcarini)

Recipe © 2009 Frank Stitt. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.

Marsala may be the traditional addition to zabaglione, but a spicy, floral Riesling pairs much better with plump and sweet ripe fruit. Look for an Alsatian-style dry or off-dry Riesling. Or try Champagne, Sauternes, or Vouvray, varying the amount of sugar to balance the sweetness of the wine.—Fine Cooking

convert Ingredients
4 large egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar (or up to 1/3 cup if using a wine that isn’t as sweet)
1/2 cup Riesling
1/2 teaspoon unflavored powdered gelatin, softened in 1 tablespoon water (optional; see the Note)
1 tablespoon boiling water
1 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon Amaretto or brandy; more to taste
4 to 5 cups peeled, sliced summer fruit, like a mix of peaches, nectarines, and berries
1/3 cup crushed almond macaroons or biscotti (or 6 Amaretti di Saronno cookies, crumbled)

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Method
1. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Set a large metal bowl on top of a pan of barely simmering water over medium-low heat (the water level should be about 2 inches below the bottom of the bowl). Put the yolks and sugar in the bowl and whisk vigorously until the yolks begin to thicken and lighten in color.

2. Pour in the Riesling and continue whisking until the mixture is thick enough so that the whisk leaves a trail as it passes through the mixture. This may take 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the heat of the water. Remove from the heat and whisk for another minute or so.

3. In a small bowl, dissolve the softened gelatin in the boiling water. Slowly whisk this into the zabaglione. Set the custard bowl over the ice-water bath to cool while you whip the cream to stiff peaks. With a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream and liqueur into the custard. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours but no more than 24 hours.

4. To serve, arrange the fruit in six parfait glasses or dessert bowls. Spoon the zabaglione over the fruit and garnish with the cookie crumbs.

Note: The gelatin prevents the zabaglione from separating in the refrigerator and lets you make the dessert up to a day ahead. If you plan to make the dessert the day you serve it, you can omit the gelatin, but be sure to chill the custard for 2 hours.

Recipe © 2009 the Taunton Press. All rights reserved.
© 2009 Leite’s Culinaria, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of use.