Leite's Culinaria» testers choice

Toaster Tarts

Kim Laidlaw — Wed, 23 May 2012 14:00:09 +0000

Williams-Sonoma: Home Baked Comfort | Weldon Owen, 2012 | Makes 12

I’m a child of the 1970s, and though my mom baked fresh bread, made her own yogurt, and had a vegetable garden, there was a certain amount of junk food that my brother and I always asked for. I loved cherry Pop-Tarts as a kid. I haven’t had one in many years, so I thought I’d create a somewhat adult version of the pastry (but don’t put these in the toaster!).

Experiment with your favorite types of jam to re-create a Pop-Tart flavor you loved as a kid. You can embellish the tarts with all sorts of fancy sprinkles, or stir a little food coloring into a portion of the glaze and sling it across the top.–Kim Laidlaw

LC By Toaster Tarts Obsessed Note: Yes, toaster tarts. Even if you weren’t obsessed by Pop Tarts as a kid, we think you’ll swoon over these almost-wholesome, made-from-scratch, choose-your-own-flavor-filling rendition. In fact, one of our recipe testers, who shall remain nameless, made them three times in as many weeks. Three times. (Hey, Kara, how many batches have you made by now?)

Active time: 45 minutes | Total time: 1 hour, 35 minutes

Toaster Tarts Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

For the pastry
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the work surface
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks
1 large egg yolk
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole milk
For the filling
3/4 cup your favorite flavor jam (the author relies on sour cherry; we’re partial to rhubarb)
2 teaspoons cornstarch, mixed with 1 teaspoon cold water
1 large egg, beaten with 1 teaspoon warm water
For the glaze
1 cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons whole milk
2 teaspoons corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Sprinkles (optional)

Directions

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Make the dough
1. In a food processor, combine the flour, confectioners’ sugar, and salt and process until blended. Add the butter and process again just until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs. Add the egg yolk and milk and process until the dough just comes together. Dump the dough onto a double layer of overlapping sheets of plastic wrap. Press the dough into a disk, wrap it with the plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight.
Make the filling
2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the jam and cornstarch, stirring quite frequently but not constantly, until slightly thickened and bubbly. Let cool
Assemble the toaster tarts
3. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured work surface, divide the dough in half and form each portion into a rough rectangle. Roll one rectangle until it measures about 16 by 9 inches. Using a ruler and a pizza cutter, cut the rectangle into 12 small rectangles, each about 3 by 4 inches. Set the rectangles on a baking sheet and refrigerate while you repeat with the remaining dough.
4. Lightly brush half the rectangles with the beaten egg. Place a tablespoon dollop of the filling in the center of each bushed rectangle and use the back of the spoon to spread it evenly over the dough, leaving a border of about 1⁄2 inch. Top each filling-slathered rectangle with a plain rectangle and press the edges together with your fingertips to seal, being careful not to let the filling ooze out the sides. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork. Place 6 tarts on each baking sheet, spacing them evenly, Prick the tarts all over with the fork. Refrigerate while the oven preheats.
5. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and position 2 oven racks in the upper and lower third of the oven. Bake the tarts, rotating the pans once halfway through, until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Let cool on a wire rack.
Make the glaze
6. Meanwhile, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, milk, corn syrup, and vanilla until smooth. Set aside at room temperature until needed.
7. Stir the glaze to recombine. Drizzle or smear the glaze on the cooled tarts. If desired, decorate with sprinkles.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Concord Grape Jelly Tarts from Dinner with Julie
Strawberry Rhubarb Hand Pies from Half-Baked Baker
Chocolate Coconut Macaroon Pies from Leite's Culinaria
Jam Tartlets from Leite's Culinaria

Hummingbird Cake

Sara Foster — Fri, 18 May 2012 14:00:41 +0000

Sara Foster's Southern Kitchen | Clarkson Potter, 2011 | Makes one 3-layer cake that serves 10 to 12

Surely, this most, pecan- and fruit-flecked cake must get its name from the sugary nectar upon which fluttering hummingbirds lunch. The namesake sweet is at least as popular among the birds’ Southern human counterparts. Indeed, it’s Southern Living’s all-time most requested recipe. This is my adaptation of the magazine’s classic rendition.–Sara Foster

LC Breakfast Stack Note: Let’s just be clear about one thing, shall we? Southerners know how to bake. To a faretheewell. As a happy consequence, this cake isn’t just tremendous to behold, it’s sweet almost beyond comprehension. It’s such an abundant stack of sweetness–and a stack of abundant sweetness–that skinny slivers seem sufficient for plating, which means it’s likely you’ll have a slice or three left to look froward to the following day. While we don’t know what transpires in your kitchen come morning, there’s never been a time when cake wasn’t welcome at our breakfast table.

Active time: 25 minutes | Total time: 1 hour, not including cooling

Hummingbird Cake Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

For the cake
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pans
2 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 cup canola or other mild vegetable oil, plus more for the pans
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups mashed ripe bananas (about 4)
1 8-ounce can (1 cup) crushed pineapple packed in juice, undrained
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 cup chopped pecans, untoasted
For the frosting
1 pound cream cheese, softened
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
2 1/2 to 6 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 tablespoon bourbon
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
For the assembly
1 cup chopped pecans, lightly toasted

Directions

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Make the cake
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (176°C) and adjust the oven rack to the center position. Lightly oil and flour three 8- or 9-inch round cake pans.
2. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, baking soda, and nutmeg in a large bowl.
3. In a separate bowl, whisk together the oil and eggs until combined. Add the bananas and pineapple (including the pineapple juice) and stir to combine.
4. Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture with a spatula or wooden spoon just until combined. Stir in the vanilla and pecans. Divide the batter evenly among the pans, smoothing the tops.
5. Bake the cakes for 25 to 30 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the cakes cool in their pans on a wire rack for about 10 minutes. Run a slender knife around the edges of the pans and turn the cakes out onto the racks, then turn them again so they’re right side up. Let cool completely before frosting.
Make the frosting
6. While the cakes cool, beat the cream cheese and butter in a large bowl with a standing or an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Slowly add the confectioners’ sugar, as much as desired according to your level of sweet tooth, and beat until incorporated. Beat in the bourbon and vanilla just until combined.
Assemble the cake
7. When the cakes have cooled completely, use a long serrated knife to slice off the rounded top of each one, creating a flat, even surface. (Reserve the trimmings for nibbling or crumbling in a parfait.)
8. Place one cake layer, cut side down, on a cake stand or a large plate. Spread the top of each cooled cake evenly with about 1/3 of the frosting and sprinkle with about 1/3 of the toasted pecans. Repeat with the remaining cake layers, frosting, and pecans. (If not serving the cake within 2 hours, carefully transfer it to the refrigerator. Be sure to remove the cake from the icebox about 1 hour before slicing to allow it to come to room temperature.)

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Banana, Coconut and Pineapple Cake from My Colombian Recipes
Carrot Cake from Rasa Malaysia
Blueberry Tea Cake from Leite's Culinaria
Drunken Apple Cake from Leite's Culinaria

Port and Paprika Chicken Bites

Kate Heyhoe — Thu, 17 May 2012 14:00:41 +0000

Great Bar Food at Home | John Wiley & Sons, 2007 | Serves 4 as tapas

Portuguese and Spanish ingredients—inimitable port wine, paprika, cilantro, and olive oil—flavor this tapas-style dish. Set out cocktail picks, or toothpicks, for nibbling on these delicious little bites. To cook these bites once and enjoy them twice, double the recipe, omitting the cilantro, and freeze half the batch. Then just thaw them in the fridge and reheat them in in a skillet, adding fresh cilantro before serving.–Kate Heyhoe

LC Hah! Note: If you’re anything like us, you may as well forget satisfying your and three other appetites with this tapas, as suggested by the number of servings above. Hah! Just can’t be done, not when it’s so tricky to stop tossing back small bites of warmly spiced chicken. Perhaps cconsider it an entree instead, for two not four, spooning the chicken over rice to soak up every last drop of that sauce.

Active time: 20 minutes | Total time: 30 minutes

Port and Paprika Chicken Bites Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

2 garlic cloves
2 bay leaves
3 tablespoons port (ruby or tawny)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-size chunks (about 1-inch dice)
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
1/2 cup finely diced onion

Directions

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1. Grind the garlic and bay leaves together in the work bowl of a hand blender or mini chopper. (Alternatively, chop the garlic by hand and finely crumble the bay leaves and combine.) Add the port, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the vinegar, paprika, and salt and pulse until well combined.
2. Pour the mixture over the chicken, cover, and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
3. Just before cooking, chop enough cilantro to make 1/2 cup. Scatter the cilantro on a serving plate.
4. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil on medium-high heat in a wok or large skillet. With a slotted spoon, scoop the chicken pieces out of the marinade and into the hot oil, arranging the chicken in a single layer and discarding the marinade. Cook until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes, then stir-fry until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes more. Scoop the chicken out of the pan, leaving any excess oil behind, and place the chicken on the cilantro.
5. Add the onion to the oil in the hot pan, return it to medium-high heat, and cook, stirring, until the onion is browned at the edges, about 2 minutes. Scoop the onion out of the oil and strew it over the chicken.
6. Serve the plate of chicken bites hot or at room temperature, sprinkled with a touch of salt and with cocktail picks or toothpicks for handling.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Panko Crusted Chicken Bites with Apricot Mustard Sauce from We are Not Martha
Maple Glazed Apple Chicken Sausage Bites from Noble Pig
Chicken Fingers from Leite's Culinaria
Grilled Saffron Chicken Skewers from Leite's Culinaria

Pureed Pea Soup with Mint

Mona Talbott — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:00:46 +0000

Zuppe: Soups from the kitchen of the American Academy in Rome | The Little Bookroom, | Serves 6

English peas come in fast and we make a feast of them in the early days of spring. This sweet creamy soup is exactly the same color as the Bass Garden outside the kitchen window. Adding the parsley and mint at the end not only intensifies the flavor, but accentuates the brilliant spring green color. Avoid the temptation to make this soup out of season with frozen peas—it’s just not the same.–Mona Talbott

LC Fresh Not Frozen Peas, Please Note: Trust us, you’ll want to rely on freshly shelled peas–and their spent pods–so as to achieve the fullness of this soup’s sweet, sweet goodness. Those bags of little green orbs languishing atop your fridge, the ones that are probably freezer burnt? Save ‘em for another day, preferably as ice packs.

Active time: 30 minutes | Total time: 45 minutes

Pureed Pea Soup With Mint Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

4 1/2 pounds English peas in pods
3 slender spring onions (we’re talking true spring onions, although you can substitute scallions)
1 stalk green garlic
1 leek
3 sprigs fresh parsley, leaves separated from stems
3 quarts (12 cups) cold water
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt
1/4 cup Arborio rice
3 sprigs fresh mint, leaves only
Black pepper, to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Directions

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1. Shell the peas, reserving the pods.
2. Rinse the spring onions, green garlic, and leek. Peel off the outer layers and cut off the roots, reserving the trimmings.
3. Toss the pea pods, the trimmings from the onion, garlic, and leek, and the parsley stems into a large pot. Add the cold water and bring to a boil. Skim any foam that collects on the surface, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes to create a light pea pod broth. Strain the broth, discarding the solids. You should have about 2 1/2 quarts (10 cups) of broth.
4. Meanwhile, thinly slice the spring onions, green garlic, and leek. Place them in a large pot along with the olive oil and place over medium heat. Season with a generous pinch of salt and stir. Add the rice and about 3/4 of the shelled peas and stir again to coat with the oil. Add another generous pinch of salt and about 7 cups of the pea broth if you prefer a thicker consistency, slightly more broth if you want a thinner consistency. Bring the soup to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and let it burble until the rice is fully cooked and the peas are very tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
5. Toss the parsley and mint leaves into the soup and puree with an immersion blender or let cool slightly and puree in a blender, processing just until the soup is creamy. Add as much of the remaining pea broth or, if necessary, cold water to achieve the desired consistency. Avoid over-pureeing the soup or you’ll end up with a gummy texture.
6. Pour the puree into the pot, add the reserved peas, and simmer oh-so-gently just until the peas are tender. Taste and season accordingly if necessary. Serve with freshly ground black pepper and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Chilled Pea Soup with Shrimp from Inspired Taste
Black-Eyed Pea Soup with Tomatoes and Spices from Lisa's Kitchen
Carrot and Lentil Soup from Leite's Culinaria
Green Gazpacho from Leite's Culinaria

Mommom’s Chocolate Bourbon-Spiked Banana Bread

Joy Wilson — Thu, 10 May 2012 14:00:44 +0000

Joy the Baker Cookbook | Hyperion, 2012 | Makes one 9-by-5-inch loaf

Dear Mommom,

I love your banana bread. It’s moist and uncomplicated, full of banana bits and supreme comfort. I’ve enjoyed your banana bread for as long as I can remember. Dad makes a low-fat version of your banana bread but come on! I just can’t get behind that. Your recipe reigns supreme. Just one thing though, I added chocolate and bourbon to your classic. What can I say—I’m young and reckless.

Love, Your Dear and Darling Granddaughter,

–Joy Wilson

LC Not Your Grandma’s Banana Bread Note: Is it just us being behind the times or is the notion of stirring chunks of chocolate into banana bread batter a relatively recent thing? And why did no one say anything to us sooner?! Regardless, no matter what its title, this eat-it-by-the-loaf recipe isn’t exactly your grandma’s banana bread. It’s better. And a little different. “This banana bread has wayyyy more in common with cake than any banana bread I’ve ever eaten,” one of our recipe testers expressed upon making–and tasting–this little life-changer of an approach. “Not that that’s a bad thing.” Not a bad thing at all, we think. Although those hoping to get a buzz off the bourbon, please note that its function here is as a fundamental flavor enhancer. Much like vanilla extract. If you crave a harder hit, you’ll need to keep that bottle by your side. Shot glass optional.

Active time: 25 minutes | Total time: 1 hour, 30 minutes

Chocolate Bourbon-Spiked Banana Bread Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened, plus more for the pan
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups (about 3) mashed ripe bananas
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons bourbon, plus more for the baker
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1 cup (6 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips or chopped dark chocolate

Directions

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1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (176°C) and place a rack in the center of the oven. Butter and flour a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, tapping out any excess flour.
2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
3. In the bowl of an electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the eggs, 1 at a time, beating for 1 minute between additions. Stop the mixer and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the bananas, lemon juice, and bourbon and beat with the paddle until well incorporated. The mixture may look curdled, but that’s okay.
4. Turn the mixer to low, add the flour mixture all at once, and beat until almost completely incorporated. Stop the mixer, add the walnuts and chocolate, and stir by hand with a spatula or wooden spoon just until incorporated. Spoon the mixture into the prepared loaf pan.
5. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, until a skewer inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean. Let the loaf cool in the pan for 20 minutes before inverting it onto a wire rack and letting it cool completely, if you can manage to keep your hands off it for that amount of time. The banana bread will keep for up to 5 days, well wrapped, at room temperature. [Editor's Note: Hah! Good luck making it last 5 hours. As if...]

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Chocolate Bread Pudding Cupcakes from Cupcake Blog
Sweet Potato Mascarpone Bourbon Bread from She Simmers
Gluten-Free Banana Bread from Leite's Culinaria
Carrot-Zucchini Bread with Candied Ginger from Leite's Culinaria

Rigatoni with Artichokes, Garlic, and Olives

Gino D'Acampo — Tue, 08 May 2012 14:00:43 +0000

Pasta Italiana | Kyle Books, 2012 | Serves 4

I have always found artichokes a little bit like Marmite—you love them or you hate them! In my case, I absolutely adore them. If you have never tried them, please have a go at this pasta dish—you won’t be disappointed.

Never ever buy artichokes that are preserved in brine because they aren’t worth eating.–Gino D’Acampo

LC Simple Is As Pasta Does Note: Simple is as simple does…or, in this case, simple is as pasta does, given how a handful of ingredients can come together so well. Subtly, but well. What that means is that each ingredient essentially and effectively has the potential to throw the delicate balance out of wonk if not carefully chosen. Although it’s tweakable to your palate’s content, what we find what works best here are artichokes tinned straight-up in oil, no potpourri-like dried herbs included. Err on the side of using less pasta so as to maximize the lovely sauce. And if you have everything in your pantry except that orange, don’t hesitate to use lemon in its place, as we hear it works without anything seeming amiss. And if you like things with a little zing, shave a little Parmigiano-Reggiano over the pasta at the end. We’re also wondering how some nice, plump, mild Cerignolas would be in place of Kalamatas, but that will have to wait for another day.

Active time: 20 minutes | Total time: 30 minutes

Rigatoni with Artichokes, Garlic, and Olives Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

12 to 16 ounces rigatoni
2 tablespoons salted butter
6 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved
6 artichoke hearts in oil, drained and cut into quarters
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon dry white wine
Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange (or, if you prefer, the zest of a small lemon)
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Parmigiano-Reggiano (optional)

Directions

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1. Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet or wok, melt the butter in the pool of oil. Add the garlic, rosemary, olives, and artichokes and sauté over medium heat for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Pour in the wine and cook until the liquid all but evaporates, or rather reduces quite a lot, about 2 minutes.
3. Add the orange zest to the artichoke concoction, season quite generously with the salt and pepper, and toss. Remove from the heat.
4. Drain the pasta and add to the artichoke mixture. Place the pan over medium-high heat and toss again for 30 seconds or so to evenly coat the pasta. Taste and, if desired, season with more pepper. Pile the pasta on plates, spooning any artichoke mixture that remains in the skillet over the top. Shave some Parmigiano-Reggiano over the pasta, if you please.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Baked Artichoke Squares from Shutterbean
Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Goat Cheese Rigatoni from Inspired Taste
Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint from Leite's Culinaria
Spaghetti with Wild Garlic and Herbs from Leite's Culinaria

The Derby Cocktail

Ted Haigh — Fri, 04 May 2012 14:00:30 +0000

Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails | Quarry Books, 2009 | Serves 1

There has always been a certain simpatico correspondence between the cocktail and horse racing. The Mint Julep has become a mascot, of sorts, for The Kentucky Derby. But as witnessed with The Derby, drinks were actually named to commemorate races as well as horses. The Derby had several variations. Three were in the 1947 Bartender’s Guide by Trader Vic. This one is my favorite.–Ted Haigh

LC Name That Derby Note: Bourbon. Curaçao. Sweet vermouth. Fresh lime. We’re sort of sad that we didn’t dream up this comforting little number, although we’re grateful somebody did. We’re not certain what the other two aforementioned variations on The Derby from Trader Vic are, though we’re fairly certain that this eminently likable version makes them irrelevant. And hey, if you can’t find orange curaçao, simply swap any orange liqueur. (You could also substitute blue curaçao, although rumor has it you’ll end up sipping something that’s a sort of lurid shade of green. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. We just always appreciate a heads up when our cocktail resembles antifreeze.)

Special Equipment: Cocktail shaker

Active time: 5 minutes | Total time: 5 minutes

The Derby Cocktail Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

1 ounce bourbon whiskey
1/2 ounce sweet vermouth
1/2 ounce orange curaçao
3/4 ounce fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)
1 lime wedge, for garnish
1 mint leaf, for garnish

Directions

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1. Fill a cocktail shaker halfway with ice. Add the bourbon, sweet vermouth, orange curaçao, and lime juice and shake, shake, shake.
2. Strain the concoction into a cocktail glass. Add the lime wedge and mint leaf and sip to your heart’s content. Repeat as desired.

Thirsty for more? Sip on these:

Kentucky Sidecar Cocktail from White on Rice Couple
Spiked Pink Lemonade from One Perfect Bite
Classic Martini from Leite's Culinaria
Manhattan from Leite's Culinaria

Burrata with Asparagus, Pine Nuts, and Golden Raisins

Chester Hastings — Thu, 03 May 2012 14:00:43 +0000

The Cheesemonger’s Kitchen | Chronicle, 2011 | Serves 4

A thin slice of prosciutto di Parma would be a welcome addition to this dish, simply served alongside or draped over the top, hiding the jewel of a salad hidden beneath.–Chester Hastings

LC Burrata Bling Note: If you’ve stepped inside a cheese shop lately, chances are you’ve witnessed burrata–and America’s crush on it. Those of you who’ve actually had the pleasure of tasting the ridiculously rich, unthinkably creamy kin to fresh mozzarella can understand why we’re crushing. Words can’t quite describe it, you’ll just have to try it. And if you’ll excuse us, we’re going to indulge in some go-weak-in-the-knees burrata bling before we succumb to the ain’t-got-no-burrata blues.

Active time: 30 minutes | Total time: 30 minutes

Burrata with Asparagus, Pine Nuts, and Golden Raisins Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

2 tablespoons golden raisins or sultanas
8 ounces slender spring asparagus
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1/2 cup best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
6 saffron threads (optional)
Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
2 balls (roughly 6 ounces each) burrata cheese

Directions

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1. Soak the golden raisins or sultanas in enough warm water to cover for at least 5 minutes. Drain the plumped fruit and pat dry.
2. Cut the woody ends off the asparagus spears and discard. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water. Bring a pot filled with plenty of salted water to a boil. Plunge the asparagus into the boiling water and cook just until the spears are tender and barely beginning to give when pinched where the tip begins, 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Be careful to not overcook the asparagus. Plunge the asparagus into the ice water to stop the cooking. Drain the asparagus and pat thoroughly dry. Cut the asparagus on the angle into pieces roughly resembling penne pasta.
3. In a large, dry skillet over low heat, warm the pine nuts until lightly toasted and fragrant, shaking the pan occasionally. Transfer the pine nuts to a plate to cool.
4. Heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil in the skillet over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and cook, shaking the pan vigorously, until the crumbs are light golden and crisp, about 1 minute. Transfer the crisped bread crumbs to a plate to cool.
5. In a large bowl, combine the drained plumped fruit, the asparagus, pine nuts, saffron, if using, and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper.
6. Cut each burrata ball in half and place one half on each of 4 plates, cut side down. Strew the asparagus mixture on top of the burrata, sprinkle with the crisped bread crumbs, and drizzle with the remaining extra-virgin olive oil. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Pasta with Corn, Burrata, Pancetta, and Chilies from Gastronomy
Squash Blossom and Burrata Pizza from Turntable Kitchen
Torn Figs and Burrata Cheese from Leite's Culinaria
Asparagus and Pecorino Salad from Leite's Culinaria

Easy Rhubarb Jam

Amy Pennington — Wed, 02 May 2012 14:00:30 +0000

Urban Pantry | Skipstone Press, 2010 | Makes about 5 pints

This pretty pink rhubarb jam is a total winner. Rhubarb is among the first produce available in spring, making it a great choice for kicking off canning season. It’s quite tart, so I add more sugar than I normally would during preserving. I choose long, thin stalks and I don’t peel the rhubarb, as I don’t mind whole pieces intact in the jam. The jam is delicious alongside roast pork, replacing the more typical applesauce.–Amy Pennington

LC Canning Catchall Note: Curious to learn how to can jam? Then this, dear reader, is the recipe for you. The jam itself is lovely and essentially foolproof, although the carefully worded instructions are an added boon. Novices, you may wish to take a peek just below the recipe for author Amy Pennington’s Canning 101, which consists of even more of the author’s articulate, easy peasy techniques, tactics, and tricks. More experienced canners, you won’t want to miss this jam. Besides, you never know what you may learn in Amy’s canning recap.

Active time: 45 minutes | Total time: 1 hour

Easy Rhubarb Jam Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

4 pounds rhubarb, trimmed, rinsed, and cut into small chunks
4 cups sugar
1 1/2 cups water
1 lemon, halved and juiced, seeds reserved in a cheesecloth pouch or tea ball

Directions

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1. Sterilize the jars for canning by boiling them and their lids. Place a small plate in the freezer.
2. To make the rhubarb jam recipe, place the fruit, sugar, water, and lemon juice, spent halves, and seeds (they provide the necessary pectin) in a large bowl and set aside at room temperature for 1 hour.
3. Pour the contents of the bowl into a large pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Continue to cook, stirring the jam constantly, for about 15 minutes. Skim the foam from the surface as the jam cooks.
4. Drop the heat to medium. Hold the jam at a constant simmer, checking frequently to make sure the jam isn’t scorched at the bottom of the pot. After 15 minutes, check to see if your jam has set by placing a small spoonful of jam on the plate from the freezer. The rhubarb jam is set when it holds its shape on the cool plate. If it seems loose, continue cooking over medium-low heat until set.
5. Remove the seed bag and lemon halves and compost them. Place the rhubarb jam in sterilized jars, filling them to the bottom-most ring. Gently tap the bottom of each jar on the counter to release any air bubbles. Using a damp clean towel, wipe the rims of the jars and secure the lids and rings. Process in a water bath for 5 minutes if using pint jars, 10 minutes if using quart jars. Remove the containers with tongs and let cool on the counter. When the jam is cool, remove the metal rings, check for proper seals, and label with the date and contents. Store the rhubarb jam in a cool, dark cupboard until ready to use for up to 1 year.

Canning 101

Preparing Jars
Be sure to set up your jars and workspace before making the jam so you can establish a rhythm. Wash your jars and lids in hot soapy water and set them to dry completely on a rack or on a clean dish towel. Sterilize jars by placing them in a canning pot, filling it with water, and bringing it to a simmer. Hold jars in water or in a 225° F (107°C) oven until ready to use. (This latter oven trick is not recommended by the USDA, but I’m still alive to give you the option.)
Filling Jars
All canned goods need headspace to allow for expansion of the food and to create a vacuum in cooling jars. As a general rule, leave 1/4 inch of headspace on all jams and jellies. When placing lids and rings on canning jars, do not overtighten the rings. Secure just until rings have tension and feel snug. Overtightening will not allow for air to vent from the jars—a crucial step in canning.
Processing Jars
Fill a canning pot or a deep stockpot half full of water and bring to a low boil. Hold the liquid at a very low boil until ready to use. If using a canning pot, place prepared jars of food on the rack in the canner. If using a deep stockpot, best only for small-batch preserving, line the bottom of the pot with a dish towel and place jars on top. This helps them from clanging around on the bottom of the pot or tumbling over onto their sides. This form of canning is not universally recommended or endorsed by the USDA, although I have seen plenty of farmers and European country folk use this old-school technique, and I’ve adapted their laissez-faire ways. Do not stack the jars, as you need to allow for the circulation of water for proper sealing. Lower jars into the pot and add enough hot water to cover the jar tops by an inch or more. Cover the pot and return to a boil. Processing times begin once the canning pot water is brought back to the boil. This can take as long as 15 minutes, so be sure to keep an eye on your pot and a timer nearby.
Removing Jars
Using a jar lifer or a set of kitchen tongs, remove jars from the canner when the processing time has elapsed. Set them aside on a folded towel to cool. Make sure you do not press on the tops and create an artificial seal.
Knowing When Jars are Properly Sealed
You’ll hear the sound of can tops popping shortly—a sign that a secure seal has been made. Once the jars are cool, check the seal by removing the outer ring an lifting the jar by holding only the lid. If it stays intact, you have successfully canned your food. If the seal is loose or broken, you may reprocess in the water bath within 24 hours. Be sure to replace the lid and check the jar rim for cracks or nicks and replace if necessary. Alternatively, you can refrigerate the jar immediately and use within three weeks.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Rhubarb-Berry Jam from David Lebovitz
Rhubarb Recipes from Punk Domestics
Homemade Strawberry Jam from Leite's Culinaria
Portuguese Tomato Jelly from Leite's Culinaria

Chocolate Pots de Crème

Sam Mogannam | Dabney Gough — Fri, 27 Apr 2012 14:00:06 +0000

Bi-Rite Market's Eat Good Food | Ten Speed Press, 2011 | Makes 8

The type of chocolate you use has a significant impact on the flavor and texture of this luscious dessert. With bittersweet chocolate (60 – 65% cacao), the pots will be intensely chocolaty and almost truffle-like; using semisweet chocolate (around 52% cacao) yields a sweeter, mellower, more pudding-like treat.–Sam Mogannam and Dabney Gough

LC As You Like It Note: As the headnote above indulges, er, instructs, you can choose exactly how you want these little puddings to turn out. It’s sort of the culinary equivalent of a choose your own ending book, except this riff on a classic invites you to choose your own dessert–a bittersweet, truffle-like custard or a sweet, mellow pudding. It all hinges on whether you choose bittersweet or milk chocolate. Or, if you’re the indecisive sort, choose not to choose. Instead simply make a batch of each type of these petits pots. Why not?!

Active time: 25 minutes | Total time: 7 hours

Chocolate Pots de Crème Recipe

Ingredients

| metric conversion

6 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, roughly chopped
2 cups heavy cream
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (7 ounces) half-and-half
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons granulated sugar
9 large egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Whipped cream, for garnish (optional)
Shaved chocolate, for garnish (optional)

Directions

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1. Place the chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl. (Try not to nibble any of it…or maybe you bought a little extra for that.)
2. Combine the cream, half-and-half, salt, and 3 tablespoons of the sugar in a medium saucepan and place over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, just until it starts to approach a simmer—that is to say, when small bubbles begin to appear around the edge of the pan. This ought to take about 4 minutes. Do not let the cream mixture boil. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
3. Combine the egg yolks and the remaining 3 tablespoons sugar in a bowl and whisk until well combined and smooth. Whisking the egg yolks constantly, slowly pour in about 1 cup of the warm cream mixture and whisk until combined. Then pour the yolk mixture into the remaining cream mixture in the pan and whisk constantly until smooth.
4. Return the pan to medium-high heat and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber spatula, until the mixture has thickened to about the consistency of a pureed soup, 2 to 3 minutes.
5. Pour the hot cream mixture over the chopped chocolate and let it stand, without stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes to warm the chocolate. Then slowly and gently stir with a whisk—trying your best not to incorporate any air into the chocolatey goodness. When the mixture is smooth, add the vanilla extract and gently stir again. Pour the mixture through a fine strainer into a large measuring cup or bowl.
6. Divide the custardy chocolate mixture evenly among eight 4-ounce ramekins or ovenproof cups. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 2 hours. Cover the chilled custard-filled ramekins with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours longer. (Don’t let your impatience get the better of you. The additional fridge time brings about a revelatory transformation in the texture of these pots de crèmes.)
7. To serve, let the pots de crèmes come to room temperature, about 30 minutes, give or take a little. If desired, top with whipped cream and shaved chocolate.

Hungry for more? Chow down on these:

Nutmeg Pots De Creme from Not Without Salt
Maple Pots De Creme from Eggs on Sunday
Duo-Tone Chocolate Pots De Creme from Leite's Culinaria
Chai Pots De Creme from Leite's Culinaria