Salsa de Chipotle con Tomate Verde Asado
(Smoky Chipotle Salsa with Pan-Roasted Tomatillos)
by Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless
from Mexican Everyday
(W.W. Norton, 2005)
Makes about 1 1/4 cups

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I've been smitten with chipotle salsa ever since the first time I tasted it on a crusty sandwich (cemita) in a Pueblan market stall 30 years ago. Its three simple ingredients in perfect balance: the smoky spice of chipotle chiles, the lively, sweet-edged tang of roasted tomatillo, and the alluring complexity of roasted garlic. I like chipotle salsa spooned on practically everything except ice cream, though I'm particularly fond of it with grilled fish or chicken or beef or...here I go again.

1. Set a large (10-inch) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat (if you don't have a non-stick skillet, lay in a piece of foil). Lay in the garlic and tomatillos (cut side down).

2. When the tomatillos are well browned, 3 or 4 minutes, turn everything over and brown the other side. (The tomatillos should be completely soft.)

3. Scoop the garlic and tomatillos into a blender jar or food processor, along with the chiles and 1/4 cup water. Process to a coarse purée. Pour into a salsa dish and cool.

4. Thin with a little additional water, if necessary, to give the salsa an easily spoonable consistency. Taste and season with salt, usually a generous 1/2 teaspoon.

Riffs on Chipotle Salsa
You can replace the tomatillos with roasted tomatoes (two 4-ounce plum tomatoes, roasted like the tomatillos, or half a drained 15-ounce can of fire-roasted tomatoes), but keep in mind that the tomato will tip the flavor toward sweet rather than tangy.

A little cilantro, fresh thyme, or parsley is always welcome, as is green or white onion — especially if it's grilled. A splash of mescal (or the less-smoky tequila) makes a borracha (drunken) salsa that's dynamite. Instead of puréeing the chiles, you can finely chop them and add them to the puréed tomatillo base; they'll show up as little red flecks, and the salsa will be less smoky.