Pain de Mie

Pain de mie is a bread that’s perfectly rectangular, perfectly lovely for sandwiches, and perfectly doable with any old loaf pan. (It’s traditionally made in a Pullman pan but we show you how to use any old pan.)

Part of a loaf of pain de mie on a round wooden cutting board.

Pain de mie means “bread of the crumb” in French, and it’s called that because of how the bread is baked; the vessel that holds the dough creates a finished product with very little crust and almost all crumb. The butter and milk make this a soft and malleable dough, which is supported by the pan it’s baked in. The pan used for baking, called Pullman because it replicates the shape of a railway car, is long and rectangular with a removable sliding lid, and is sold at specialty food stores. It promotes a flat, rectangular loaf of bread. However, I’ve had luck by using a regular loaf pan and covering the top tightly with a lightly oiled piece of aluminum foil, doubled and wrapped snugly around the pan. This lovely bread with a tight and tender crumb is an excellent sandwich bread.–Sarah Black

Pain de Mie

  • Quick Glance
  • (4)
  • 30 M
  • 3 H, 30 M
  • Makes 16 slices
4.3/5 - 4 reviews
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Special Equipment: One Pullman loaf pan (15 3/4-by-3 3/4-inches or 40-by-9 1/2-cm) or one standard loaf pan (9-by-5-inch or 22-by-13-cm); instant-read thermometer



Cut the butter into 1/2-inch (1-cm) chunks and let it come to room temperature.

Measure the yeast into a small bowl. Pour the warm water into another small bowl. The water should feel hot to the touch and register between 105°F (41°C) and 115°F (46°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Sprinkle the yeast on top of the water and stir to dissolve it. Set the yeast aside until it bubbles a little on top.

Dump the flour in a large bowl, sprinkle with the salt and sugar, and stir to incorporate. Make a well in the center.

Pour the milk into a small bowl. Add the yeast mixture and then add the milk mixture to the flour and mix to incorporate. The dough will be very sticky but that’s okay. Then add the butter and continue to mix for 2 to 3 minutes.

Cover the bowl with a kitchen towel or plastic wrap and let the dough stand still for about 30 minutes. The dough may appear puffy and it may not. Don’t worry if the dough doesn’t change in appearance.

Sprinkle your work surface with flour and then use a plastic bowl scraper to turn the dough out onto the surface. Tap your hands in a little flour to coat them and then gently flatten the dough into a rectangle with a short side facing you. Use your fingers or the plastic scraper, flip the top edge of the dough down to just below the center, then flip the bottom edge up to just above the center, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat this process with the right and left sides and then turn the dough over and dust off the flour.

Oil a second large bowl, then place the dough in it, seam side up, to oil the top. Then turn it seam side down and cover the bowl with oiled plastic wrap. Mark the time with a felt-tipped pen on the plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest and rise in a moderately cool place until it has doubled in volume, 1 to 2 hours, depending on the temperature of your kitchen.

Once the dough has doubled in volume, sprinkle a little more flour onto your work surface, then scrape the dough out onto it, letting the dough assume its natural shape. Shape the dough into a log, then cover with oiled plastic wrap and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes before you continue shaping. (To shape the dough into a log, flatten it into a rectangle, and position the rectangle so that the short end faces you. Using both hands, pick up the top edge and pull it past the center of the dough, press it so it adheres to itself, then do the same with the bottom edge. Repeat this action with the top piece only and press the dough together firmly to make a tight log. Don’t worry if the dough looks misshapen.)

Now shape the dough by beginning with the pre-shaped log placed lengthwise in front of you with the seam side up. Fold the dough in half lengthwise and press down so that it adheres to itself. Close the interior gap by pulling dough from the top with your left hand and sealing at the bottom with the heel of your right hand, as you would for a baguette. Place the dough seam side down, then place your hands at the center, fingers together, and with gentle but consistent pressure move your hands away from each other, rolling back and forth toward the ends of the dough. Place the dough in an oiled 15 3/4-by-3 3/4-inch (40-by-9 1/2-cm) Pullman pan or 9-by-5-inch (22-by-13-cm) loaf pan, seam side down, and gently press it into the corners. (If you are using a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, it will seem like there is too much dough for the pan but it’s okay.)

Cover the pan with oiled plastic wrap and let it rest until just before the dough reaches the top of the pan, 30 to 60 minutes.

While the dough is resting, preheat the oven to 400°F (204°C), with a rack in the middle.

After the dough has finished resting, remove the plastic wrap. If you are using a Pullman pan, slide on the lid. If you are using a loaf pan, take a long piece of foil, oil the area that will come in contact with the dough, and wrap the foil tightly around the pan twice.

Place the loaf pan on the middle rack of the oven and bake for about 30 minutes.

Pull the bread out of the oven, remove the lid or foil, and then return the bread to the oven to continue baking until the top is a light brown color, 7 to 15 minutes. If you wish to measure the temperature, the center of the loaf should register 200°F (93°C) on an instant-read thermometer.

Remove the pan from the oven and let the bread rest in the pan for about 10 minutes. Carefully turn the bread onto a wire rack and let it cool. Originally published May 14, 2016.

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Recipe Testers' Reviews

As described, the bread was soft with a close crumb, and the crust was thin and soft. It was easy to slice thinly for toast or sandwiches. I used some to make French toast and it was sublime. I have never made pain de mie before and I haven’t yet added a Pullman pan to my baking collection. After baking this recipe, I might need to add it to my birthday wish list.

I sprinkled the counter heavily with flour before turning out the dough. The folding directions were easy to follow. I was surprised how quickly the dough became less sticky and easier to handle after folding it as directed. I don’t have a Pullman pan, so I used a regular 9-by-5-inch loaf pan. The dough seemed like way too much for the pan, it filled it more than half-full right after shaping, before any further rising. I did have a small leakage of dough out of the end of the pan, but the foil did a good job of keeping the top mostly flat.

I love making breads, any kind of breads, and trying new flavors and textures. But French breads like this one, soft, tender, with very little crust, are my favorites. Although it takes about 4 hours to prepare, the final bread makes it all worthwhile. And it’s not so difficult, so if you want to do bread this is a good recipe to start with. It tastes better the same day it is baked!


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  1. I’ve actually made this recipe several times. My only problem was my pan size. On several occasions my dough overflowed my Pullman’s pan lid creating an interesting overhang 😆… the texture and flavour were amazing! The crumb was hearty, yet delicate. The recipe was easy to follow and the resulting bread is super versatile. My favourite use was as a lobster roll!

    1. Ilda, Pullman pans come in slightly different sizes due to the manufacturer. Is your exactly (15 3/4-by-3 3/4-inches or 40-by-9 1/2-cm)? That would be the main culprit. Do you add anything to the dough that could take up volume?

  2. I made this tonight with a smaller pan (11″ x 4″ instead of the standard 13″ x 4″) using the ingredients ratio calculator mentioned in a comment above and it turned out well! I would definitely use less salt, however. 2 tsp of kosher salt, maybe, but 1 tsp of table salt is plenty! I baked it in my oven on the convection setting, and when I took the lid off of the pullman pan, it had already browned nicely at the top so it didn’t that extra 7-10 minutes in the oven with the lid off.

  3. This sounds wonderful. My pullman pan is only 13″ long; any suggestions on how much dough I should use? I’m thinking maybe leave out about 2 oz…..

  4. I want to try the recipe but that size pullman pan does not exist here. Can I use a 20×10 cm pullman? Or maybe another size of pullman pan like 30×12×12cm? How do I scale up/down the recipe? I’ve tried to calculate it but it was so hard and I’m lost, please help me. Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Kemala, the author suggests in the headnote that as an alternative to a pullman pan, that she has had “luck by using a regular loaf pan and covering the top tightly with a lightly oiled piece of aluminum foil, doubled and wrapped snugly around the pan”. Would this work for you?

      1. sorry but that’s not my point, is it possible to scale up/down the recipe? if yes, how can i calculate it? what is the formula? thanks.

  5. hi! After about 10 minutes into baking, the loaf EXPLODED from the side of the foil covering and oozed all over the oven. To be honest, I don’t care; we scraped up the ooooooze and ate it anyway, and it was tasty!

    But what kind of changes do you recommend so that it doesn’t squeeze out? Are there any reductions in the ingredients? reduced proofing time?

    1. caroline, I’m at a loss, to be honest. Did you follow the recipe exactly? What size pan did you use? My gut says the pan was the wrong size–too small. A longer proofing timing wouldn’t cause oozing….

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