Crab Soup

Using a meat mallet, or the side of a rolling pin, bash the crab shells to break them up into pieces. Set a large saucepan over medium-high heat and toss in the shells along with all the other stock ingredients. Bring to a simmer and cook gently, uncovered, for 1 hour, using a ladle to skim any froth that rises to the surface. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Pass the stock through a fine strainer and discard the solids. You should end up with about 5 cups (1.2 l) or so of crab stock.

In a heavy bottomed saucepan set over medium heat, warm the oil and butter. When it’s bubbling away, add the onion, fennel, carrot, celery, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and tarragon. Cook, stirring regularly, until the vegetables are just beginning to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the paprika, fennel seeds, and star anise and cook for 1 minute more. Then add the wine and chopped tomatoes, stir well to combine, and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes. Add 5 cups (1.2 l) crab stock, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the soup from the heat and let it cool for 20 minutes.
Carefully transfer the soup to a blender and purée the soup, working in batches if necessary, until smooth. (You could use a hand blender if you prefer but just make sure you get a smooth consistency.)
Pass the soup through a strainer set over a clean saucepan. You may need to push it through with the back of a spoon or ladle. Return the soup to the heat and bring to a very gentle simmer. Stir in the cream and the Calvados and then season with salt and black pepper to taste.
Serve the soup in warmed bowls. You can finish it with a swirl of cream if you like, some cracked black pepper, and a little dressed crab meat—or, as shown here, a cracked crab claw.