My friend Cameron, whose family is from Calabria, loved talking about his trips there during which he would drizzle olio santo (literally “holy oil,” Calabrian chili oil) over everything. I love to picture him in his ancestral homeland reveling in the region’s penchant for heat, then returning to spread the spice gospel in New Jersey. The raw sausage, a nod to Calabria’s love of pork, cooks beautifully during the bake and its caramelized exterior gives way to a tender pink middle.
In a large bowl, combine the pork, fennel seeds, salt, red pepper, if using, and garlic. The mixture will keep in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.
Make the pizza
Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) with a pizza stone or baking steel set in the middle rack of the oven.
Stretch the dough to a 12-inch (30-cm) round, making sure to create a raised border. Dust a pizza peel with flour or cornmeal. Move the dough to the peel.
☞ TESTER TIP: Have your toppings all ready to go before moving your dough to the pizza peel.
Spoon the tomato sauce over the pizza dough to the edge of the raised border, then distribute the mozzarella, onion, and sausage evenly.
Before you open the oven door, give the peel a quick jerk. The pizza should move slightly in response to your movements. Grip the peel with your dominant hand and open the oven door with your other hand. Land the tip of the peel about a half-inch from the far edge of the stone or steel. Pull the peel swiftly away in one fluid motion, allowing the dough to fall into place. Don’t get discouraged if you don’t pull this off at first. This is a legitimately difficult part of the process and it takes practice. Close the door and turn on the oven light.
Bake until the pizza crust is browned, the sausage is cooked, and the cheese is bubbling, 7 to 12 minutes. Most ovens have hot spots, so if you see one part is cooking more quickly than another, slide the peel underneath the pizza and use your fingers or tongs to reposition it so the pizza cooks evenly, then close the door quickly. You want all these movements to be efficient so the oven loses as little heat as possible.