Thai-Inspired Chicken Coconut Soup with Lemongrass

Trim the lemongrass of its outer sheath and its tough ends. Whack the stalk in a few places with the back of a knife to smash it and then cut it into 2 or 3 pieces.
In a large skillet or medium saucepan, combine the oil, onion, and garlic and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
Then add the lemongrass, curry paste, galangal or ginger, and lime leaves. Cook, stirring, for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium, and cook at a moderate boil for about 15 minutes. (You can cool, cover, and refrigerate the soup base for up to 2 days.)
While the broth cooks, cut the chicken breast into 1/2- to 3/4-inch chunks. Remove the stems from the shiitakes and discard or reserve for stock. Cut the caps into quarters or eighths.
Add the coconut milk, chicken, and mushrooms to the broth. Simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through.
Remove from the heat. Stir in the lime juice and nam pla and taste and adjust the seasoning. Divide the soup among 4 bowls and garnish with the scallions and cilantro and serve. You may remove the galangal and lemongrass before serving, or leave them in; they are delicious to gnaw on at the table. Originally published September 17, 1998.