Carol Field

Most Americans know grissini as those pale breadsticks in the long waxen envelopes at old-time Italian restaurants. How sad for us. Perhaps we can do something about that.

Every once in a while, along comes a loaf of bread that's so rustic, so memorable, it ruins every other bread experience. Here's that loaf.

Behind every unforgettable loaf of Italian bread you've daintily nibbled or hungrily inhaled is a biga, or starter dough, just like this one. Nonna not included.