Nutella: My Not So Secret Love

A spoonful of homemade nutella resting on a white marble surface with a smear of nutella beside it

The One and I first went to Paris on December 30, 1993, to ring in the New Year. As a couple, we were barely three months old, so everything we did was met with dopey mutual smiles and contented, self-satisfied sighs. It was as if no other couple had ever taken a picture on the Pont Neuf, strolled through the Tuileries, scratched their heads over the surprisingly minuscule size of DaVinci’s Mona Lisa, or eaten a Nutella-filled crêpe in the street.

☞ MAKE THE RECIPE: HOMEMADE NUTELLA

When the street cart crêpier tossed his chin out to us, his way of asking what kind of crêpe we wanted, I hesitated. Ever since seventh grade, when I began studying French, I’d dreamed about biting into a crêpe, à la the dogs in “Lady and The Tramp,” with The One. Not this One, mind you; in my imagination, it was a lady. (What can I say? My gay hormones hadn’t kicked in yet.)

Still, to make this as perfect a moment as possible, as new lovers are wont to do, I had The One order a jambon et fromage and I chose au Nutella. We sat on the wall of the Seine passing the hefty ham and cheese crêpe back and forth. Then, being the gentleman I am, I passed the Nutella crêpe to The One so that he could have the first bite. I waited for that sigh, that beautiful sigh that no one else who was in love had ever sighed. And there it was. Then he handed it back to me and I took a bite. My sigh came fast. What have the French bewitched me with? I thought. What is this nectar, this food of the gods?

An almost empty jar of homemade nutella

If ignorance is bliss and love is blind, then falling in love in Paris makes you a four-eyed idiot. I lived with that memory of Nutella, thinking it was some ancient French concoction, until we visited Rome years later and saw rows and rows of it in a supermarket.

“It’s Italian?” I asked The One. “And it’s processed?” I felt duped by the Nutella corporation. It tricked my brain into pumping phenylethylamine through my body, making me think I was having a moment unlike any other experienced by man when I was nothing more than a puppet to sugar, modified palm oil, hazelnuts, cocoa, skimmed milk powder, whey powder, lecithin, and vanillin. As a silent protest, I have steadfastly refused to buy a jar of the stuff.

I felt duped by the Nutella corporation. It tricked my brain into pumping phenylethylamine through my body, making me think I was having a moment unlike any other experienced by man when I was nothing more than a puppet to sugar, modified palm oil, hazelnuts, cocoa, skimmed milk powder, whey powder, lecithin, and vanillin. As a silent protest, I have steadfastly refused to buy a jar of the stuff.

Then this recipe came along. I sniffed at it for a long time, still feeling the fitta di dolore, or stab of Italian pain. Getting a Vitamix is what finally got me to try homemade Nutella. That machine could grind an entire bag of peanuts into the most amazing homemade peanut butter, so I was intrigued in terms of what it could do with hazelnuts and chocolate.

I veered from the recipe as written, using 1 1/4 cups hazelnuts, grapeseed oil, 7 ounces milk chocolate, and 4 ounces 65% dark chocolate. The V-mix tore through the ingredients in no time, netting me 2 cups of the most nutty, lappable homemade Nutella I’d ever imagined. I felt redeemed. I had created a treat that was special, personal, and utterly unprocessed.

This morning when I asked The One if he’d like crêpes with homemade Nutella, a subtle nod to our Parisian past, he just said, “Nah,” oblivious to the meaning of my request.

An toddler proudly showing his face smeared with Nutella

Wounded, I gave the remainder of the homemade Nutella to my friend Annie. Her son, Luca, is a Nutella fiend, and giving him a natural version of his favorite spoonful snacks wasn’t a half-bad idea. The next day Annie called raving about how much Luca loved it–which is evident.

The One, I have a new man in my life–and he might not remember our Nutella moment either, but he has a real excuse: he can barely count to three.

This post has been updated. Originally posted January 6, 2012.




About David Leite

I count myself lucky to have received three James Beard Awards for my writing as well as for Leite’s Culinaria. My work has also appeared in The New York Times, Martha Stewart Living, Saveur, Bon Appétit, Gourmet, Food & Wine, Yankee, Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune, The Washington Post, and more.


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