Many of the recipes for classic regional breads, such as this ciabatta recipe, begin with a starter dough made from small amounts of flour, water, and yeast allowed an initial fermentation. The starter, known as biga in Italy, or bighino when in small amounts, not only gives strength to what in Italy are weak flours, it also produces a secondary fermentation from which come the wonderful aroma, natural flavor, and special porosity of the final loaves and wheels of bread.
The important point about a biga is that the breads made with it develop a wonderful taste because their risings are long and bring out the flavor of the grain. Another benefit is that the loaves remain fresher and taste sweeter than those made with large amounts of commercial yeast.
In Italy, bakers use dough from the previous day’s baking to start a new dough. I keep some starter on hand at all times; by having it around, I can decide to make pane pugliese or ciabatta in the morning and have it for dinner that night. Because the first biga must come from somewhere, though, you may make it following the instructions below. It’s remarkable. It freezes very well and needs only about 3 hours at room temperature until it is bubbly and active again, or it can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.–Carol Field
LC Obliged to Biga Note
Behind each and every memorable bite of proper Italian bread we’ve daintily nibbled, hungrily inhaled, or otherwise somehow consumed, we have a biga to thank. So we’re feeling much obliged to Carol Field for this recipe. Nonna not included.
Italian Biga
Ingredients
- 1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
- 1/4 cup warm water
- 3/4 cup plus 4 teaspoons water, preferably bottled spring water, at room temperature
- 2 1/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
- Vegetable oil, for the bowl
Instructions
- Stir the yeast into the 1/4 cup warm water and let stand until creamy, about 10 minutes.
- Stir the spring water into the creamy yeast mixture, and then stir in the flour, 1 cup at a time. If mixing by hand, stir with a wooden spoon for 3 to 4 minutes. If mixing with a stand mixer, beat with the paddle at the lowest speed for 2 minutes. If mixing with a food processor, mix just until a sticky dough forms.
- Transfer the biga to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at cool room temperature for 6 to 24 hours, until the starter is triple its original volume but is still wet and sticky. (The bakers I admire most advise 10 to 11 hours for the first rise, but others are very happy with the 24 hours it takes for dough to truly become yesterday’s dough, and if you like sour bread, allow your biga to rest for 24 to 48 hours or even 72 hours.)
- Cover and refrigerate or freeze the biga until ready to use. (If refrigerating the biga, use within 5 days. If freezing the biga, let it rest at room temperature for about 3 hours until it is bubbly and active again.) When needed, scoop out the desired amount of biga for your recipe and proceed. I strongly recommend weighing the biga rather than measuring it by volume since it expands at room temperature. If measuring by volume, measure chilled biga; if measuring by weight, the biga may be chilled or at room temperature.
Nutrition
Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.
Recipe Testers’ Reviews
This is a perfectly suitable starting point for most any bread which uses a starter. I bake bread several times a week and it’s nice to have this handy. Sometimes I add this to a bread dough which doesn’t call for a starter just for the added flavor.
It’s just starting to rise. I did by volume.
It may loosen up a bit and get stickier as it rises, Gina.
Thank you. I’ll see what happens. It will not go to waste either way ☺
Do let us know, Gina.
My biga, after following exact recipe, is pretty much a ball of dough that doesn’t stick to my hands. Is that correct? Should it be wetter?
The biga should be fairly wet and sticky, Gina. Did you measure your ingredients by weight or volume? Has it gone through the rising step yet?
Thanks for the recipe! 😀 I have some queries on the fermentation.
The recipe states to “let rise at cool room temperature for 6 to 24 hours, until the starter is triple its original volume but is still wet and sticky.”
Background: I’m from southeast asia with warm humid weather. It was 28-30°C (82.4 – 86°F) when I started the first rise. Used instant dry yeast.
Questions:
1. If the biga triples before 6 hours, do I start the cold retard in the fridge as soon as it triples? Can I continue letting it proof at room temperature even after it triples?
2. After almost 8 hours for the first rise, the biga has many medium-to-large bubbles and it seems to have deflated somewhat. You can see the dough at the rims are sunken. What does this mean?
3. I will be attempting LC’s ciabatta recipe which calls for biga that’s rested for 12 hours. Can I use biga made from scratch immediately after giving it a 12 hour rest (first rise)? So make biga (rested for 12 hours), then immediately make ciabatta without refrigerating it.
Thanks in advance!! 😀
Kaye, given your climate, I’m not surprised it tripled so quickly. I would begin the cold retard as soon as it triples, even if that is before the 6 hours. If you are able to find a place with a slightly cooler temperature, you’ll be able to let it rise longer and develop more flavor. I think your biga looks ok, but I wouldn’t let it rise any further. Yes, you can make the ciabatta as soon as the biga is ready. Don’t worry too much about waiting the full 12 hours. If your biga is ready at 8 hours, or even 6 hours, you can start using it. Do let us know how it turns out!