by Rose Levy Beranbaum
from Rose’s Heavenly Cakes (John Wiley & Sons, 2009)
Serves 10 to 12
I am forever grateful that the editors of Fine Cooking magazine encouraged me to create this glorious pumpkin cheesecake. I had feared that the spices usually associated with pumpkin-flavored desserts would fight with the cream cheese, but then I discovered that using turbinado sugar, with its mild overtones of molasses, and leaving out the spices made it possible to enjoy the true pumpkin flavor. Pecans are a time-honored complement to pumpkin, especially this cheesecake, and the addition of a caramel topping ties all the flavors together so perfectly that this has become one of my very favorite cheesecakes. Plan Ahead: Make at least 1 day ahead.—Rose Levy Beranbaum
convert Ingredients
For the gingersnap crust
1/2 pecan halves 1 cup gingersnap crumbs, lightly packed, preferable Swedish brand, processed to medium crumbs
1 tablespoon sugar
2 pinches salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
For the pure pumpkin filling
1 cup unsweetened pumpkin, preferably Libby’s
1 cup turbinado sugar
2 cups heavy cream, cold
1 pound cream cheese [65°F to 70°F (19°C to 21°C)]
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
For the caramel piping glaze
1/2 cup sugar 1/2 tablespoon corn syrup
2 tablespoons water
1/4 cup heavy cream, heated
1 tablespoon unsalted butter [65°F to 75°F (19°C to 23°C)]
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Directions
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1. Prepare one 9-by-2 1/2- to 3-inch springform pan by coating with nonstick cooking spray. Set this pan in a slightly larger silicone pan or wrapped with a double layer of heavy-duty aluminum foil to prevent seepage. Have ready one 12-by-2-inch round cake pan or roasting pan to serve as a water bath.
2. Set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) for at least 20 minutes.
3. Spread the pecans evenly on a baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes to enhance their flavor. Stir once or twice to ensure even toasting and avoid overbrowning. Make the gingersnap crust
1. Place the gingersnap crumbs in a food processor. Add the pecans, sugar, and salt and process until fine crumbs, about 20 seconds. Add the melted butter and pulse 10 times just until incorporated.
2. Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, begin by pressing the crumb mixture into the bottom of the pan and partway up the sides. To keep the crumbs from sticking to your fingers, it helps to place a piece of plastic wrap over the crumbs and to press them through the wrap. With a 6-inch round cake pan or a flat-bottomed straight-sided measuring cup, smooth the crumbs over the bottom and at least 1 1/2 inches up the sides. Be sure to press the bottom thoroughly so that the crumbs are evenly distributed.
Make the pumpkin filling
1. In a small heavy saucepan, stir together the pumpkin and sugar over medium heat and bring the mixture to a sputtering simmer, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 to 5 minutes, until thick and shiny.
2. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the mixture into a large food processor and process for 1 minute with the feed tube open. With the motor of the food processor running, add the cold cream. Add the cream cheese in several pieces and process for 30 seconds, or until smoothly incorporated, scraping down the sides of the bowl two or three times. Add the eggs and yolks and process for about 5 seconds, or just until incorporated.
3. Using the silicone spatula, scrape the filling into the prepared pan and smooth the surface evenly with a small offset spatula. Set the pan in the larger pan and surround it with 1 inch of very hot water.
4. Bake the pumpkin cheesecake for 45 minutes, turning the pan halfway around in the oven after the first 25 minutes. Turn off the oven without opening the door and let the cake cool for 1 hour.
5. Remove the pan to a wire rack and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Cover the cheesecake with a large bowl or plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. To unmold, use a small propane torch to heat the outside of the pan or wipe the sides of the pan with a dish towel run under hot water and wrung out.
Make the caramel piping glaze
1. Have ready a 1-cup heatproof glass measure coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a medium heavy saucepan, preferably nonstick, stir together the sugar, corn syrup, and water until all the sugar is moistened. Heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow the mixture to boil undisturbed until the mixture turns a deep amber [360°F (180°C) or a few degrees lower because its temperature will continue to rise]. Remove it from the heat and as soon as it reaches temperature, slowly and carefully pour the hot cream into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously. Use a silicone spatula or wooden spoon to stir the mixture gently, scraping the thicker part that settles on the bottom.
3. Return the pan to very low heat, continuing to stir gently for 1 minute, until the mixture is uniform in color and the caramel is fully dissolved. Remove it from the heat and gently stir in the butter until incorporated. The mixture will be a little streaky but becomes uniform in color once cooled and stirred.
4. Pour the caramel into the prepared glass measure and allow it to cool for 3 minutes. Gently stir in the vanilla and allow the caramel to cool until no longer warm to the touch, stirring gently three or four times.
Note: The glaze keeps covered for up to 3 days at room temperature and for at least 3 months refrigerated. To reheat: If the caramel is in a heatproof glass container at room temperature, microwave it on high for 1 minute, stirring twice. Alternatively, place the container in a pan of simmering water and heat, stirring occasionally, until warm, about 7 minutes.
Apply the glaze
1. For a decorative lacing effect, you can pour the caramel glaze over the pumpkin cheesecake from the glass measure, but for the greatest precision, use a pastry bag fitted with a small decorating tip, or a resealable plastic bag with a very small semicircle cut from one corner.
Highlights for success After the caramel is prepared, do not stir it too much, because this may eventually cause crystallization. However, corn syrup will help to prevent the caramel from crystallizing when stirred. It also lowers the caramelization temperature. I adore the flavor of caramel, so I like to have as much depth of flavor as possible without any burned flavor. I like to bring this caramel up to 360°F (180°C) for maximum flavor. Also, the darker you make the caramel, the less sweet it will seem, but you risk burning it if you don’t have an absolutely accurate thermometer. A viable alternative is to use a light-colored or transparent silicone spatula so that you can see the color of the caramel as it darkens. It’s best to have the cream hot and the butter at room temperature to avoid splattering when they are added to the hot caramel. Cold cream, however, speeds the cooling and is practical if you are pressured for time, but it must be added very slowly.
Recipe © 2009 Cordon Rose, LLC. All rights reserved.
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