You know chicken cacciatore–chicken made with vegetables, herbs, and tons of tomatoes–right? Well, this is Roman-style chicken cacciatore, with not a tomato in sight. Rather, the bird (commonly guinea hen) is simmered with garlic, rosemary, white wine, and a wee bit of anchovies for umami. Still want a tomato-based dish? Here you go.
You thought you knew chicken cacciatore. An Italian classic, right? With chicken and tomatoes, right?–Renee Schettler Rossi
What Does The Name Cacciatore Mean, Anyways?!
Where does the naming convention cacciatore, which in Italy is more traditionally referred to as “alla cacciatora,” come from? The authors explain that “cacciatora” means ‘hunter’s wife,’ and in times past she would have had to rustle up a bubbling hot-pot from anything her hunter hubby dragged home from a hunt. Over the years it became an expression for a stew of mixed meats, usually cooked with tomatoes, wine, and herbs. In Rome, however, ‘alla cacciatora’ implies meat stewed with rosemary, vinegar and anchovies, with not one tomato in sight. This dish probably dates all the way back to ancient Rome when tomatoes had not been brought ashore from South America and often foods were flavored with herbs, vinegar and a dash of garum, the pungent anchovy sauce. The hunter’s catch could be rabbit, chicken, lamb, guinea fowl (which is our favorite as it has so much flavor) or even a meaty fish such as swordfish or monkfish.” There you have it. Perfect chit chat for your next dinner party where this impressive yet easy recipe is the centerpiece.
Roman-Style Chicken Cacciatore
- Quick Glance
- 25 M
- 1 H, 30 M
- Serves 6
- 2 1/2 pounds chicken or guinea hen, cut into 8 pieces
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 3 tablespoons rendered pork fat*, or 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves, unpeeled and lightly crushed
- Two (6 inch) sprigs rosemary
- 4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- 3 1/2 ounces white wine
- 4 canned anchovy fillets (if salted rinse well, if in oil don’t rinse)
- 1. Season the chicken pieces generously all over with salt and pepper. Heat the pork fat or oil in the biggest lidded frying pan you have (or use 2 if you can’t fit all the chicken comfortably into 1 pan) and add the garlic and rosemary.
- 2. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes over a medium heat until you can smell the herbs strongly; this will flavor the oil. Remove the herbs from the pan before they have a chance to burn and set aside for later. Fry the chicken pieces on all sides for about 10 minutes, browning all over, until they are a rich golden color. Be patient and don’t turn them too often; let them brown on one side and then turn to the other.
- 3. Pour in the vinegar and wine and bring to the boil. Allow the liquid to reduce for a few minutes, then add the anchovies and the reserved herbs and stir them into the liquid. Put the lid on the pan and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook for 1 hour or until the meat falls easily from the bone. This will depend on your type of meat so allow enough time for it to get really soft. Check the pan every so often and add a little hot water if it looks dry. Adjust the seasoning as necessary and serve on soft polenta or with a side of simply blanched spinach.
- In the past it was easier to use pork fat to cook rather than expensive olive oil. It has a higher smoke point than olive oil and imparts a subtle flavor to recipes. One of the authors, Giancarlo, remembers doing this in his youth, as when the olive oil had run out for the year, pork fat was the only alternative. They simply rendered down fatty cuts of pork by cooking the chopped fat slowly over a gentle heat. When a pool of fat appears in the bottom of the pan, pour it off into a bowl and return the pan to the heat and continue until no more fat appears from the pieces of pork. Allow the fat to cool, cover and chill in the fridge. It will keep for weeks, even months, and can be spooned out as you need it.