An exceptional loaf of whole-wheat sandwich bread is something we all aspire to—flavorsome with a light crumb and tender crust. America’s Test Kitchen’s recipe uses both a sponge and a soaker, keeping the dough moist and sweet. Wheat germ and honey round out the ingredients and give the loaf complexity not usually found in whole-wheat breads.
Most whole-wheat bread recipes turn out either squat bricks or white bread in disguise. We wanted a nutty, hearty, light-textured sandwich loaf that really tasted like wheat. We started with a good white-flour recipe and worked our way backward to “unrefine” it. We made a series of white bread loaves, replacing different amounts of all-purpose flour with whole-wheat to find the highest percentage of whole-wheat flour that we could use before the texture suffered, landing on 60 percent. To bump the amount of whole wheat up even more, we substituted protein-rich bread flour for the all-purpose flour. Next, we soaked the flour overnight in milk, with some wheat germ for added flavor. This softened the grain’s fiber, kept the dough moist, and coaxed out some sweetness. Finally, we turned to a sponge, a mixture of flour, water, and yeast left to sit overnight to develop a full range of flavor in our loaf. Adding honey lent complexity and swapping out some of the butter in our dough for vegetable oil cut the richness.
If you don’t have a stand mixer, you can mix the dough by hand. If you don’t have a baking stone, bake the bread on an overturned and preheated rimmed baking sheet set on the lowest oven rack. The bread can be wrapped in a double layer of plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 3 days. Wrapped with an additional layer of aluminum foil, the bread can be frozen for up to 1 month.–America’s Test Kitchen
Whole-Wheat Sandwich Bread
For the sponge
- 2 1/4 cups bread flour plus more for the work surface
- 1 cup water heated to 110°F (43°C)
- 1/2 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
For the soaker
- 3 1/2 cups whole-wheat flour plus more for the work surface and as needed*
- 1/2 cup wheat germ*
- 2 cups whole milk
For the dough
- 6 tablespoons (3 oz) unsalted butter room temperature, plus more for the loaf pans, if desired
- 1/4 cup honey
- 2 tablespoons instant or rapid-rise yeast
- 2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil plus more for the bowl
- 4 teaspoons table salt
- Nonstick cooking spray
- 2 cups water
Make the sponge
- In a large bowl, combine the flour, water, and yeast and stir with a wooden spoon until a uniform mass forms and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
Make the soaker
- In a separate large bowl, combine the flour, wheat germ, and milk and stir with a wooden spoon until a rough mass forms, about 1 minute. If the mixture is too soft and wet, add a little more flour, one tablespoon at a time, to achieve a shaggy consistency.
☞TESTER TIP: The soaker will be a little looser in shape than the sponge but you still want to be able to knead it in the next step.
- Move the soaker to a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Once again, add more flour, one tablespoon at a time, if needed, to achieve a smooth consistency.
- Return the soaker to the bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.
Make the dough
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the sponge, butter, honey, yeast, oil, and salt.
- Tear the soaker into 1-inch (25 mm) pieces and add to the bowl. Mix at low speed until a cohesive mass starts to form, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes.
- Dump the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead by hand to form a smooth, round ball, about 1 minute.
- Place the dough in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Spray a piece of plastic wrap with cooking spray and cover the bowl tightly with it, oiled side down. Let the dough rise at room temperature for 45 minutes. The dough may not rise significantly during this period.
- Gently press down on the center of the dough to deflate. Spray a rubber spatula or bowl scraper with nonstick cooking spray. Fold the partially risen dough over itself by gently lifting and folding the edge of the dough toward the middle. Turn the bowl 90 degrees and fold again. Turn the bowl and fold the dough 6 more times (for a total of 8 folds). Cover tightly with plastic wrap and allow to rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
☞TESTER TIP: The ambient temperature of your kitchen will determine rising time, so start checking for doubling after 30 minutes, especially if your room temperature is relatively warm. Ditto for the next rise as well!
- Butter two 9 by 5-inch (22 by 11-cm) loaf pans or spray them with nonstick cooking spray.
- Slide the dough onto a well-floured work surface and divide in half. Gently press 1 piece of the dough into a 17 by 8-inch (43 by 20-cm) rectangle, with the short side facing you. Roll the dough toward you into a firm cylinder, keeping the roll taut by tucking it under itself as you go. Turn the loaf seam side up and pinch it closed. Place the loaf, seam side down, in a prepared pan, pressing gently into the corners. Repeat with the second piece of dough.
- Cover the loaves loosely with cooking spray-coated plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, with the top of the loaves risen about 1 inch [25 mm] above the lip of the pan, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Start checking the rise early to prevent overflow!
- At least 30 minutes before baking, adjust the oven racks to the middle and lowest positions. Place a baking stone or large metal baking sheet turned upside down on the middle rack and an empty loaf pan or other heatproof pan on the bottom rack, and heat the oven to 400°F (204°C).
- When the dough has risen, in a small saucepan, bring 2 cups water to boil on the stovetop.
- Using a sharp serrated knife or a single-edge razor blade, make one 1/4-inch-deep (6-mm) slash lengthwise down the center of each loaf.
- Working quickly, pour the boiling water into the empty loaf pan in the oven and set the loaves on the baking stone. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (177°C). Bake until the crust is dark brown and the loaves register 200°F (93°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 40 to 50 minutes, rotating the loaves front to back and side to side halfway through baking.
- Move the pans to a wire rack and let cool for 5 minutes. Remove the loaves from the pans, return to the rack, and let cool to room temperature, about 2 hours, before slicing and serving.
*What is wheat germ?Wheat kernels contain three different edible parts—bran, germ, and endosperm. With these three elements, whole grains contain elements like fiber, complex carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, and antioxidants. Wheat germ has a nutty and delightfully toasted taste and can be used as an addition to recipes to add nutrients, flavor, and texture. It's the most nutrient-rich part of wheat and it adds an extra layer of toasty flavor to your bread.
Recipe Testers' Reviews
I should probably start by saying that I am not a bread baker. I make a lovely white sandwich bread and different types of no-knead. This was my first time making whole-wheat sandwich bread and it turned out perfectly.
The sponge and the soaker came together within minutes. I did need to add 2 tablespoons of flour to the soaker in order to have a smooth dough in 3 minutes. My sitting time for both was 19 hours.
It starts as a fairly wet dough and it would have been nice to know that beforehand. While kneading the dough it kept crawling up the hook so I had to stop multiple times to scrape it down. I turned my back for a minute and it made its way into the spring. Good thing the dough was super elastic so it was easy to remove.
The first rise for 45 minutes only produced a slightly puffy dough but that was on the counter. I decided to use the proof setting on my oven for the second rise which was a good thing since it took 65 minutes for it to double. The last rise in the pan was fairly quick at 40 minutes.
The finished product was moist and had a nice crumb. Very light texture but with a big punch of whole wheat flavor.
I'll be completely honest—this isn't the easiest loaf to make (it's very hands on, time consuming, and a bit of a sticky mess) but the outcome is soft, nutty, and delicious, so well worth it. If you're new to bread making, I may not encourage you to try this one first; but if you've got a little experience, you can certainly handle it. It requires a bit of advanced planning, but making your own whole-wheat sandwich bread is such a rewarding experience—this will give you two beautiful sandwich loaves that you can slice and freeze and enjoy throughout the week.
I didn't need two sandwich loaves, I made one and used the rest of the dough to make hamburger buns—they were soft and wonderful. Overall, a very versatile bread recipe that I'll make again. All my testers agreed that it was a delicious loaf, with lots of flavor, and nice and soft (the buns were perfect for turkey burgers).
Originally published April 21, 2021