➦ 2004

I’m convinced that in a past life I was an Italian woman with strong arms and solid legs, my nylons rolled down around my swollen peasant ankles. Because, like signoras of years gone by, when it comes to pistachios, I refuse to take shortcuts.

I will happily sit at the kitchen table and shell pounds and pounds of pistachios by hand. I’ll shell so many nuts that by the end, my thumbs are stinging because the salt has made its way into the slits under my fingernails inflicted by the sharp edges of the shells. Hell, I’d sit there in the dark as I shell to heighten the sense of martyrdom if I could get away with it.

Yet, I never begrudge the work or the mighty pistachio itself. Some activities are meant to be done slowly and with great suffering. They’re good for the soul. (They’re also hefty deposits in the relationship bank account so that I can guilt The One into doing my bidding simply by giving him two very sore thumbs up.)

That’s how it is with this gelato. I know I can buy shelled pistachios. I know I can hire neighborhood children and scream at them to shell faster as they huddle together, crying, pinging those lovely green nuts into a communal bowl. It’s just that I get an enormous sense of satisfaction from doing it myself. If I could grow the damn things, I would.

The payoff of all this drama-queen-worthy sturm und drang is supremely creamy, abundantly studded sin in a spoon. And accept no less than khaki-colored gelato. Yes, khaki-colored. Those pints of irradiated green ice cream whispering your name each summer are imposters. They’re artificially colored and too often laced with almond extract, kind of like inexpensive performance-enhancing drugs for the dairy set. (The One and I were in Aix-en-Provence recently, and I was floored to find my pistachio gelato contained nary an eponymous nut; it was meagerly flecked with—are you ready?—crushed peanuts.)

People will go to great lengths to not spend the time to make a memorable gelato. I’m not one of them


➦ 2024 UPDATE

Ah, the foolishness of youth! Since I wrote the above almost 20 years ago, I’ve had a change of heart. I no longer find the romance in shelling mountains of pistachios. I want to eat, not work.

Back in the day, it was nearly impossible to find pistachio paste in the U.S. The only option was buying imported paste. And, dammit, was it expensive.

Then I found the Pistachio Factory in California. They have both pistachio butter and pistachio paste. The difference, although microscopic, is the paste is smoother.

Also, I was shocked to find out that many famous European brands buy their “imported” pistachios from the Pistachio Factory and add other ingredients, such as sugar and oil, making it a product that contains only 40% to 50% pistachio.

The Pistachio Factory’s paste is 100% pure pistachio. And way, way cheaper. Also, you can get 15% off your order by using the promo code LCNUTS.

Using the paste lops off a full 24 hours. And when you’re jonesing for gelato, time is definitely of the essence. Time is not your friend.

Chow,

David Leite's handwritten signature of 'David.'
david caricature

Why Our Testers Loved This

The testers were smitten with the velvety texture and subtle sweetness of this creamy homemade pistachio gelato. Tester Sita K. describes it as “heaven in every spoonful.” I couldn’t agree more.

What You’ll Need to Make This

The ingredients for pistachio gelato: milk, cream, pistachio paste, sugar, xanthan gum, and vanilla extract.
  • Pistachio paste–I recommend ordering a pistachio paste made with 100% pistachios, such as that sold by The Pistachio Factory, to give your gelato a rich nutty flavor. When ordering, use the code LCNUTS to receive 15% off your order. Leftover pistachio paste can be used to make pistachio buttercream frosting.
  • Cream and milk–The combination of whole milk and heavy cream gives you rich flavor and creamy, smooth texture in your gelato.
  • Xanthan gum–This will help to create a smooth gelato by preventing ice crystals from forming. It’s available at some large supermarkets or can be purchased online.
  • Chopped pistachios (not shown)−These are optional but add an excellent crunch to the gelato. If you use salted pistachios, be mindful to only add a small pinch of salt to the gelato base.

How to Make Pistachio Gelato

A person whisking sugar and xanthan gum together in a bowl; the sugar mixture being added to cream in a saucepan.
  1. Whisk the sugar, xanthan gum, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl.
  2. Combine the milk and sugar mixture in a saucepan and bring the milk to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk until the sugar dissolves.
Cream being poured into a saucepan; vanilla and pistachio paste being added to the cream.
  1. Whisk the heavy cream into the hot milk mixture.
  2. Add the pistachio paste and vanilla.
A person using an immersion blender to blend pistachio gelato custard; gelato custard in an ice cream maker.
  1. Use an immersion blender or whisk vigorously until the gelato base is very smooth.
  2. Pour it into an ice cream maker.
Gelato being churned in an ice cream maker; gelato being scooped into a storage container.
  1. Churn the gelato in an ice cream maker until it reaches a soft-serve consistency. Stir in the nuts, if using, and churn for an extra minute.
  2. Transfer to an airtight container and freeze until firm. Let soften for a few minutes before serving.

Common Questions

What’s the difference between gelato and ice cream?

There are a few differences between these popular frozen desserts. Gelato typically has a lower fat content than ice cream, giving it a more intense flavor than ice cream. It’s also typically served slightly warmer than ice cream, resulting in a softer texture and consistency.

How long does homemade gelato keep?

If stored in an airtight container in the freezer, the gelato will keep for up to 2 weeks.

What is xanthan gum and what does it do for ice cream?

Xanthan gum is a type of complex carbohydrate that is frequently used in food production, as it helps to thicken and stabilize mixtures.

In ice cream, xanthan gum acts as a stabilizer to prevent the ingredients from separating and ice crystals from forming, ultimately resulting in a smooth, creamy consistency and mouthfeel. Using xanthan gum can also help to extend the shelf life of your ice cream up to 3 months. (He-he, like it’ll last that long!)

Helpful Tips

  • This recipe is suitable for gluten-free diets.
A platter with two ice cream cones filled with pistachio gelato.

More Superb Gelato Recipes

Write a Review

If you make this recipe, or any dish on LC, consider leaving a review, a star rating, and your best photo in the comments below. I love hearing from you.–David

This is the BEST pistachio gelato recipe!

Tilly
A bowl containing four scoops of pistachio gelato with chopped pistachios on top.

Pistachio Gelato

4.80 / 10 votes
Pistachio gelato, made properly, relies upon nothing but pistachio paste, milk, cream, sugar, vanilla, and salt for its flavor and color. That's why true pistachio gelato isn't Frankenstein green. Spoons at the ready!
David Leite
CourseDessert
CuisineItalian
Servings8 1/2-cup servings
Calories418 kcal
Prep Time15 minutes
Cook Time5 minutes
Chill & Freeze Time12 hours
Total Time12 hours 20 minutes

Equipment

  • Ice cream maker
  • Blender or handheld blender if needed

Ingredients 

  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon xanthan gum, (I’m so easy to find!)
  • pinch of salt
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • ¾ cup pistachio paste, (use promo code LCNUTS)
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 to 3/4 cup coarsely chopped pistachios, (optional)

Instructions 

Make the gelato base

  • Mix the 1 cup granulated sugar1 teaspoon xanthan gum, and a pinch of salt  in a small bowl.
    Sugar and xanthan gum being whisked in a bowl.
  • Pour the 2 cups whole milk and the sugar mixture into a saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
    Sugar being added to cream in a saucepan over a burner.
  • Stir continuously until the sugar dissolves completely, 2 to 3 minutes.
    ☞ TESTERS TIP: Don’t let the mixture boil.
    A person stirring cream in a saucepan over a burner.
  • Slide the saucepan off the heat and whisk in the 1 cup heavy cream.
    Cream being poured into a saucepan.
  • Add the ¾ cup pistachio paste and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.
    Vanilla and pistachio paste being added to cream in a saucepan.
  • Whisk until smooth. (I use an immersion blender for this, but you can also use a canister blender.)
    Pistachio gelato base being churned with an immersion blender.
  • Cover the bowl and slide it into the fridge to chill for at least 4 hours or, for better flavor and texture, overnight (8 to 12 hours).

Churn the gelato

  • Pour the chilled pistachio gelato base into an ice cream maker and churn according to the manufacturer’s instructions until it reaches a soft-serve consistency. Add the 1/2 to 3/4 cup coarsely chopped pistachios if using.
    Frozen pistachio gelato in an ice cream maker.
  • Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container and freeze until firm.
    Frozen pistachio gelato being scooped into a storage container.
  • Remove the gelato from the freezer 10 minutes before serving. Gelato is traditionally served at a slightly warmer temp that American ice cream.

Notes

  1. Dietary–This recipe is suitable for gluten-free diets.

Nutrition

Serving: 0.5 cupCalories: 418 kcalCarbohydrates: 38 gProtein: 9 gFat: 27 gSaturated Fat: 10 gMonounsaturated Fat: 11 gCholesterol: 41 mgSodium: 32 mgFiber: 3 gSugar: 31 g

Nutrition information is automatically calculated, so should only be used as an approximation.

Tried this recipe?Mention @leitesculinaria or tag #leitesculinaria!
Recipe © 2003 David Leite. Photos © 2024 David Leite. All rights reserved.

Recipe Testers’ Reviews

It was always difficult to select another gelato flavor other than pistachio. This recipe brings back memories of the incredible gelato from the shop in the square of San Gimignano, not up the hill but at the square itself.

This recipe uses the Sicilian process of making gelato without any eggs. And if you’ve made homemade ice cream, you appreciate the omission of the careful process of adding egg yolks without making scrambled eggs and the step of straining the base.

Xanthan gum is used to create a velvety texture and highlight the pistachios.

This pistachio gelato recipe makes a super creamy and smooth gelato just like you could find in any quality gelateria. The use of pistachio paste (be sure to try a pea-sized drop all by itself) is genius and delivers an amazing nutty flavor to the gelato. It also gives the gelato a nice, deep green, not the Frankenstein-y green of commercial stuff.

The finished product is pretty sweet, but not cloyingly so. We knew it was going to be a home run when we had a taste of what was left in the ice cream canister after churning. I added the chopped pistachios on top when serving so they would stay nice and crunchy.

I love pistachio gelato, and this is a top-notch recipe. Very simple and easy to make, it packs an amazing amount of pistachio flavor without any artificial pastes, colorings, or essences. The verdant green color along with the crunchy bits of pistachio is certainly an exotic treat for the pistachio lover–and even if you aren’t one yet, this will certainly make you one.

The gelato wasn’t overly sweet and, indeed, it was perfect, as anything sweeter would have completely masked the pistachio flavor. It’s just how a gelato should be. Heaven in every spoonful. This will be a regular gelato in our household.

The whole process was very easy to follow and the ice cream was done in no time, apart from waiting for the custard to cool. The final product was a gelato that’s perfect for the pistachio aficionado. It’s not your usual creamy ice cream nor your icy sorbet but rather a nice blend of both, just as a true gelato should be.

It was far from sugary, so if you’re inclined to a sweeter taste, I would advise adding about 1/4 cup more sugar, but certainly not more than that.




About David Leite

I count myself lucky to have received three James Beard Awards for my writing as well as for Leite’s Culinaria. My work has also appeared in The New York Times, Martha Stewart Living, Saveur, Bon Appétit, Gourmet, Food & Wine, Yankee, Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune, The Washington Post, and more.


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36 Comments

  1. I’m in the process of making this recipe. Why not use almond extract? I admit, I’ve never had a pistachio ice cream (or pudding) that tasted at all like pistachios, but I’ve always loved the almond flavor, anyway.

      1. Yes, that makes sense.

        I made this recipe at a time when I was making about one batch of ice cream a week for work, and I also tried a different pistachio gelato recipe. Now, I don’t remember how this recipe turned out. I might have to make it again, and eat the whole thing by myself. Rats.

    1. Amin, by soaking the pistachios, most of the flavor leeches out, which is what makes the custard so flavorful. so not only are they bland, but they’re not particularly crunchy or toothsome like pistachios you add after the ice cream is made.

  2. Where do you get fresh pistachios, like, not crispy rotten in the shell? I’d love to make your gelato, but only if I can fine fresh pistachios.

    1. Sue, I use The Pistachio Factory. They have all kinds of pistachio products. I’m tempted to remake this recipe using their pistachio butter/paste. So much saved time. Use the promo code LCNUTS for a 15% discount.