Pistachio gelato, made properly, relies upon nothing but pistachios, milk, cream, egg yolks, sugar, and salt for its flavor and color. That’s why true pistachio gelato isn’t Frankenstein green. Sppons at the ready!
LC Peeling Pesky Pistachios Note
It’s not just the shelling of the pistachios that could lead one to martyrdom. It’s the peeling of the pistachios, too. Ideally those pesky, papery, bitter-tasting husks that cling rather pestilently to the pistachio nut must come off, too. The easiest way to make this happen–aside from hiring those neighborhood children–is to blanch the shelled pistachios in boiling water, thoroughly drain the nuts, toss them in a large kitchen towel, and briskly rub, rub, rub until your upper arms will allow you to rub no more. Dump the pistachios on a rimmed baking sheet and pore over them, wearing spectacles if you must, so you can spy and strip any lingering specs of violet or brown parchment-like peel that insist on clinging to the nut. Then give your floor a good sweep, as it’ll need it. And yes, the resulting gelato, with its robust pistachio taste and ethereal creaminess, is worth every second of this.
- Quick Glance
- 30 M
- 30 M
- Makes 8 (1/2-cup) servings
Special Equipment: Ice cream maker
Coarsely grind the 2 1/2 cups of pistachios in a food processor. Remove and reserve 3/4 cup. Finely grind the remaining pistachios and set them aside, too. Whatever you do, keep your hands out of these–they’re precisely measured. That’s why I suggested the extra cup for snitching.
Bring the milk, cream, and the finely ground nuts almost but not quite to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Watch this closely, as it can foam up– and over–the pot in seemingly no time. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla and salt. Pour the pistachio milk mixture into a bowl and place this bowl in another larger bowl filled halfway with ice and water. Let it cool. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, strain the pistachio milk mixture into another saucepan, pressing hard on the ground nuts with the back of a spoon. Discard the soggy nuts. Heat the milk over low heat until very warm. Again, don’t let it boil.
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer (or using a bowl and one of those handy dandy hand mixers like my godmother used to use), beat the egg yolks and sugar with the whisk attachment until thick and pale, 3 or 4 minutes.
Carry the bowl over to the stove and pour just a little of the warm pistachio milk mixture into the whipped egg yolk mixture and stir to combine. Slowly, slowly add the rest of the whipped egg yolk mixture to the pan, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture registers 175° to 180°F (80° to 82°C) on an instant-read thermometer or until the custard that forms thickly coats the back of your spoon.
Pour the custard into a bowl and place this bowl in another large bowl filled halfway with ice and water. Lazily stir until the mixture cools. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, gently pressing the plastic directly against the surface of the custard, and refrigerate until completely chilled, about 2 hours.
Churn the gelato according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Toss in the coarsely ground pistachios during the last few minutes of processing, when the gelato starts to swell and make those mesmerizing waves as it goes round and round and round. Those are how you know the gelato is ready. Scoop the gelato into a plastic container, cover, and freeze until solid. And then try not to consume it all in a single sitting.
Recipe Testers' Tips
I love pistachio gelato, and this is a top-notch recipe. Very simple and easy to make, it packs an amazing amount of pistachio flavor without any artificial pastes, colorings, or essences. The verdant green color along with the crunchy bits of pistachio is certainly an exotic treat for the pistachio lover–and even if you aren't one yet, this will certainly make you one.
The gelato wasn’t overly sweet and, indeed, it was perfect, as anything sweeter would have completely masked the pistachio flavor. It’s just how a gelato should be. Heaven in every spoonful. This will be a regular gelato in our household.
The whole process was very easy to follow and the ice cream was done in no time, apart from waiting for the custard to cool. The final product was a gelato that’s perfect for the pistachio aficionado. It’s not your usual creamy ice cream nor your icy sorbet but rather a nice blend of both, just as a true gelato should be.
It was far from sugary, so if you’re inclined to a sweeter taste, I would advise adding about 1/4 cup more sugar, but certainly not more than that.