I'm going to say
two words, and I want your gut reaction: American cheese. So
what did you think? If you conjured up a slice of a plastic-wrapped,
yellow-orange rubbery substance, you're way behind the
curve. Well, maybe not that far behind, because this industry
is growing faster than most of us can stay abreast of. The fact
is, in 2004 there were about 150 American cheesemakers and
that number grew to almost 400 in 2006.

Most of us don't know the vast
variety of artisanal cheese being manufactured in North America.
Even if we have a great cheese shop or grocer, it can be intimidating
when so many unfamiliar and new names are popping up. We stand
there staring at the different shapes and monikers wondering
about the taste, and when someone offers to help, we snatch a
piece of chèvre (thank goodness
we know that one) and say everything is fine, leaving none the
wiser.
Laura Werlin is here to help. She wants to take the mystery
out and put fun into selecting cheeses.
Laura
Werlin's Cheese Essentials goes a long way toward accomplishing
that goal. The education begins as she categorizes cheese in eight
styles from mild to strong; beginning with fresh cheeses and ending
with their washed-rind cousins. Within those categories, we learn
what the group of cheeses is commonly used for (burgers, pasta,
sauces, etc); their names (brie, epoisses, Cashel Blue, etc);
what to look for when buying (visual, textural, aroma, and flavor);
and most important: when not to buy (smells like ammonia).
And then there are assignments for "getting
to know" each of the categories. With a grocery list and
specific instructions on how to go about tasting the cheeses of
the category — with lemon or with honey, for example — it's a no
brainer. Sounds like a party to me, so why not educate a bunch
of friends at the same time.
This is a great reference book, but if you'd rather be
seduced by a recipe to gain more knowledge about cheese, Werlin
offers 75. I chose
Mushroom
Toasts with Rocchetta,
Goat
Cheese and Lentil Salad, and
Mimolette
and Apple-Cranberry Galette.
— Linda
Avery (May 10)