Delicatessen aficionados might cringe at the idea of homemade pastrami cooked in the oven since wood smoking is supposed to be the customary cooking method—at least, that’s what they think. In truth, some of the most lauded pastrami and smoked meats involve no wood smoke at all. In his must-read chronicle, Save the Deli, writer and deli aficionado David Sax reveals that the smoky flavor in commercially produced pastrami comes from fat dripping down and sizzling on the gas element of the ovens that are used.
This recipe begins with the same cured (“corned”) beef brisket as in our Backyard Barbecue Pastrami (see variation below). But here, the brisket is steam-roasted until tender, avoiding the more complex process required to make the barbecued version. Smoked paprika adds its elemental flavor without getting in the way of the traditional coriander and black pepper seasonings. The process to create this deli classic is time-consuming—5 days to brine plus 3 to 4 hours to cook. But trust us, your patience will be rewarded.–Nick Zukin and Michael Zusman
LC Your Own Personal Pastrami Note
Yep. You can make your own homemade pastrami. Easy peasy. So go on. What are you waiting for?
Homemade Pastrami Recipe
- Quick Glance
- 45 M
- 5 D, 7 H
- Makes 3 to 4 pounds
- For the brine
- 3 quarts (12 cups) cold water, for the brine
- 2 cups (10.4 ounces/295 grams) Diamond Crystal (or other large-crystal) kosher salt
- 1/4 cup pink curing salt (a mixture of 6.25% sodium nitrite, salt, and a touch of red dye, also known as Prague Mix #1 or Instacure #1 or Curing Salt #1)
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- 1/2 cup firmly packed dark or light brown sugar
- 1/4 cup honey
- 2 tablespoons pickling spice
- 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
- 1 tablespoon whole yellow mustard seeds
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 3 quarts (12 cups) ice-cold water, for the brine
- One 3- to 4-pound beef brisket
- 4 cups cold water, for humidifying the oven
- For the spice rub
- 1/4 cup ground coriander
- 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons smoked paprika
- Make the brine
- 1. Fill a large stockpot with 3 quarts (12 cups) cold water. Add the kosher and pink curing salts (it’s essential to weigh the kosher salt for accuracy rather than go by a volume measure, trust us), granulated and brown sugars, honey, pickling spice, coriander and mustard seeds, and garlic. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring often to fully dissolve the salt and sugar in the water. Immediately remove the pot from the heat once the brine boils.
- 2. Add the 3 quarts ice-cold water to a 2-gallon (or larger) food-safe container that will fit in your refrigerator. Pour the brine into the container and place the container, uncovered, in the refrigerator until completely cool.
- 3. Trim the excess fat from the brisket until the fat layer remaining on the brisket is about 1/4 inch thick. Submerge the brisket in the cooled brine. (It may be necessary to cut the brisket into 2 pieces to submerge it.) Refrigerate the brisket for 5 days, stirring the brine and flipping the brisket once a day. Make sure that if any of the brisket sides are touching one another that you regularly turn them away from each other to expose all the brisket to the brine.
- Make the spice rub
- 4. Mix together the coriander, pepper, and paprika in a small bowl.
- Roast the pastrami
- 5. Remove the brisket from the brine and pat it dry. Rub 1/4 cup spice rub evenly on the nonfatty side of the brisket, then flip the brisket and rub the remaining spice mixture onto the fatty side. Let the brisket come to room temperature, about 2 hours.
- 6. Preheat the oven to 300°F (149°C). Pour 4 cups cold water into the bottom of a 12-by-15-inch roasting pan. Set a wire rack inside the pan.
- 7. Place the brisket on the wire rack, fatty side up. Tightly cover the brisket and roasting pan with a double layer aluminum foil. Bake until the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 200°F (93°C). This should take about 1 hour per pound or 3 to 4 hours total. Let the meat rest for at least 30 minutes before slicing.
- 8. Without trimming the fat, carve the pastrami against the grain into 1/4-inch-thick slices—or, to be less exact, into slices as thin as possible without the meat falling apart. Keep the meat tightly wrapped in aluminum foil or plastic wrap in the fridge for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 6 months.
- Backyard Barbecue Pastrami
- While this pastrami takes more time to produce than the Homemade Pastrami, the resulting depth of flavor makes it worth the extra effort. With the wide variety of smokers and barbecue grills available on the market, we can only offer general instructions on how to perfect this superior pastrami. But as with all successful meat smoking, the key is low and slow. Prepare the Homemade Pastrami recipe as directed through step 5, omitting the paprika in the spice rub. In an outdoor smoker or barbecue grill, smoke the meat, fatty side up, at 225°F (107°C) for 6 to 8 hours, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (71°C) to 175°F (79°C). Oak, maple, pecan, hickory, or fruit woods may be used, depending on availability and preference. (Avoid mesquite, as it gives a harsh flavor to long-smoked meats.) Preheat the oven to 300°F (149°C). Place the brisket in a roasting pan and tightly cover the brisket and pan with a double layer aluminum foil. Bake until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 200°F (93°C), 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
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Homemade Pastrami Recipe © 2013 Nick Zukin and Michael Zusman. Photo © 2013 Caren Alpert. All rights reserved.